Fitting a Dynamator to a positive earth car

[Tony]

All the wiring is now complete and everything seems to be working except the ignition light which does not now come on. The volt meter seem to be working fine so quite pleased with the way it has all gone. Managed to hide everything inside to old regulator box after stripping out the guts of it. I have not had to cut or change any of the existing loom and it is quite a tidy job if I say so myself. So now I just need to sort out the ignition light, maybe a bulb?
I would post picture's and disgrams of the wiring and work, if the site would let me ,

Thanks everybody for the help and advice.

Tony

[mgcjag]

Hi Tony..no problem with the forum adding images..i just used the Add image to post option Steve

[Tony]

Hi Steven, I have tried again but with no luck.

The picture does not come over and I loose my text.

Tony

[mgcjag]

Try a different device....or once you've posted the text go back in to your post and edit it..you should be able to just add photos...Steve

[Tony]

Hi Steve, tried that but not change.
If you look at the bottom it states add image. That takes you in photoshop , resize the picture but still it does not come over.

Below that sign it gives the option of adding an attachment. Go in, download a photo and then I get the file sized to big. Not sure how to resize my photos on an iPhone so I am stuck.

Tony

[caveman]

Hi Tony,,
You seem to be nearly there, I select the size at the top and then select Choose Images. On next page at bottom RH corner, I select Photos & Videos from the Choose an Action section. Find your photo and add. I hope this helps.

[mgcjag]

Hi Tony....I use a Samsung phone...if I use the Samsung internet browser to access the forum then I can't post images useing the "Add image to post" option...so I always access the forum via the Google chrome option on my phone..saved as favourite page...so try another browser option....Steve

[Tony]

Thanks for the tips guys, I will give them a go. However my main issues now is with the ignition light either staying even when the car is not switched on. It seem to be getting a back feed from the dynamator. Most people seem to have the same problem but do not post when they solve it.
Here I go again, have to copy this message and repost as I get thrown out of the site when I attempt to post.

Tony

[mgcjag]

Tony....have a look here...do you have a relay for your warning lamp? viewtopic.php?f=3&t=14558

[Tony]

Hi everyone, I have managed to crack the ignition lamp problem and it all seems to be working well. I note the volt meter is showing a figure of 14 to 15v. I would have thought that 13 volts would be normal for a 12v system.
I do not know how accurate the guage . Is this a problem?,

[johnetype]

The gauge is not accurate, +/- 5% tops. There's enough accuracy so you can tell the difference between a battery being charged (around 14 volts) and a battery not being charged at around 12.5 volts. It's not a problem.

However, there is consistency so using a working digital multimeter - even one you've bought from AliExpress or eBay for under £5 will be accurate enough, compare readings to your voltmeter for the charging and non charging voltages so you have a reasonable calibration of your new voltmeter.

Also note that your new voltmeter is reading the voltage in the depths of the instrument panel when the voltage that matters is the voltage across the battery. They too will be slightly different.

[Tony]

Thanks John, I feel a bit more confident now.
I am trying to get together some drawing of the installation for anyone else thinking of doing the conversion.

[mgcjag]

Tony..if you still can't post photo then just post the writeup..email me your photos then I can add them to your post..Steve

[Tony]

Thank Steve, just getting some schematics sorted out and a couple of pictures.

Love your car by the way . It looks great and the colour suits it.

Tony

[Tony]

Not sure if you get this but let me know. I would like your views on the diagrams and check to see if they make sense or if any changes required


Here's the file "E Type dynamator conversion.pdf" for your review.
https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:s ... 75570990c4

Add your comments and collaborate with others in real time. You don't need to download Acrobat to access the file.

[Tony]

Hi Steve, these are my own diagrams. The dotted line represents where to cut into the white wire to the ignition light. However I need to take the drawing down as I notice a small mistake which I need to correct.
So I will delete my post and correct it but you may need to take down the drawings in your post. Any more comments welcome.

Tony

[johnetype]

In the drawing I get linked to the voltmeter version means that the voltmeter is permanently energised. Not in itself a problem except that the voltmeter draws around 100mA so will flatten your battery in around a week.

The voltmeter needs to be connected to a feed energised by the ignition switch. In the factory cars it's connected to one of the green wires feeding the dashboard instruments and the input to the voltage regulator.

It's probably just an artefact of the drawing but the dynamator needs to be connected all the way to the battery with a high current capacity cable ~100 amps or so.

[DWW]

The voltmeter should be connected between the old a meter wire and ground. These wires should by now be securely bridged, that is how my conversion is wired anyway.

[Tony]

Hi johnetype and DWW,

I take note of your comments and will put the supply of the volt meter after the ignition key.
In terms of direct connection of the Dynameter being connected directly to the battery I have achieved this by making the connection onto the battery supply feeding the solenoid, which in effect is a direct supply to the battery. It was just convenient to do this as the solenoid is just behind old voltage regulator. .

The system seems to be working ok but I just want to run it for a while and when I am happy is working the will repost the diagram for more comments.

Thank you for your comments

Tony

[DWW]

I also recommend at a later stage to install an ignition relay so that the entire current of the car does not run through the ignition switch. That involves installing a 40A relay.