Front wing removal

[alunwill]

I've just replaced the headlight diaphragms due to rust. What became clear was that this bonnet was blasted as one assembly.

Rust and body paint was still in place under all the washers. As a result I've decided to take the wings off and clean up the flanges that mate to the centre panel.

Could anyone advise on the pitfalls of doing this, if any and what issues are likely to arise when I put them back together regarding alignment!

alun

[RICHOT]

Can’t answer your question but good luck.

Richard

[40GT]

If you have any Cleco's use a couple or 3 as locating ref before you dismantle, failing that 1/8 or 3/32 pop rivets are good locators.

Sean.

[Gfhug]

Alun, have you had the bonnet on the car and been happy with the fit, panel gaps to lower wings and the scuttle?
My experience fitting a bonnet is to dry fit it all, including the air ducts, with the strengthening panels loose.Fit it to the car and see how pleased you are with it, adjusting the shims at the hinges as appropriate. Make sure ALL panels, headlamp scoops, ducts, strengtheners, etc. are attached including, the lower panel under the radiator air intake. Screw and bolt together the ducts, strengtheners, panels as if it were a final fit, with the correct spacers between the panels.

Once you are happy you can start attaching the strengtheners with Sika 4720.
The parts must be cleaned as per the instructions (bare metal). If careful the Sika can be resealed for use another day with a new mixer tube. So you’ll not have to overly rush attaching each part and the bonnet can be checked for still being a good fit to the car.

A couple of good guides to fitting from Monocoque’s website:
https://www.monocoque-metalworks.com/ma ... ype-coupe/

https://www.monocoque-metalworks.com/ma ... inal-push/

The latter one shows the strengtheners already fitted to the panels and works once you followed the above dry fit to correctly place them. Use the correct bolts, mainly unc. (I’ve used stainless hardware but that means it is visible not painted over.) The oval washer are expensive to buy replacement, so clean and paint or plate them.

That’s how I found it easiest to do. Maybe others can chime in with their comments.

Good luck

Geoff

[alunwill]

Hi Geoff,

Yes the bonnet has been on the car and had a good fit. Good gaps, level to sill and closed easily. It's only once I noticed a few of the panel joints were loose that I decided to look closer. I've resealed the panel flanges so I'm assuming if I remove the wings to sort the rust between centre flanges, the refit of the wings should be straight forward; if there is such a thing with these cars.

Do you know if wing and centre panel are under tension and will I need to pull these together as I bolt it up.

Alun

[Gfhug]

Hi Alun, when you say you’ve resealed the flanges, do you mean the gap between the centre and wing panels? There should be no sealant in there as it forms a water trap. The long chrome strips sit along the gap and are held in with brass clips (easily made by yourself than buying them). Then water can escape through the gap. Maybe I’ve misinterpreted your words? Do you mean the strengtheners?

The panels are not under tension, though they are heavy enough to need gently pulling together as you do up the bolts/nuts. Maybe use a ratchet strap to gently hold all together? If you follow the monocoque guide by lying it upside down you can steadily put it together single handed. Be careful when you then pull it upright to make sure you don’t put little dents in the bonnet (ask how I know ) from the trolley it is resting on.

Always happy to answer questions.

Geoff

[alunwill]

Hi Geoff,

No, when I say flanges I mean the brackets that support the internal panels. The flanges between wings and middle panel are as original.

Thanks for the advice about strapping support and good to know there's nothing under tension.

That's my first job when I get back.

Many thanks

Alun