Evan’s classic cool 180.. waterless

[Paul bow]

Hi guys, have anyone used or got any views on the Evan’s classic 180 waterless system?
Although I’ve got the large ally rad twin fans etc and glycol based coolant along with a bottle or two of the redline water wetter it’s getting close in this weather to the red area on the gauge, when caught in traffic..
Hence looking for some advice on this product.
I believe that eagle use it in their cars, although no chance of getting that confirmed by them of course!
Any help much appreciated.

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul...have a couple of mates use it in their C type replicas it works well for them with no issues....you do need to be aware of its limitations so follow the instructions carefully....Steve

[Paul bow]

Thanks Steve.. I suppose the question is that is it better than what we have been using for the last 60 years ?
Any clue as to its limitations ?
Thank you

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul....first of your haveing overheating problems you should look for what's causing them.....standard coolant in a well sorted car should and does work perfectly well......Evans also works and the engine can get hotter without boiling over becaus of its higher boiling point....heat transfer is also better than water based so your operating tempetature could actually read higher....this isnt a good thing.....you need to remove all water from your system and flush with their prep liquid...befor filling with evans.....in the event of a leak you can top up with water but you then need start again and flush the entire system....plenty of info on the forum or Google.....personally if you engins getting to hot there is a reason and it needs looking at.....Basicslly Evans does not make your engine run cooler ...Steve

[Gfhug]

And as I’ve had to point out before, Evans used to (maybe still do) claim that Rolls Royce Merlins ran on pure glycol, which is absolute twaddle! They ran 50/50 glycol water mix. It was actually found the Merlin ran better on this mix.

Geoff

[Paul bow]

Thanks guys..
The engine doesn’t overheat but it’s certainly if the gauges can be believed in traffic in +30C heat getting hot. Between the L (normal) and the red on the gauge.
This E produces some high hp numbers which would also attribute to the heat.
The fans come in at 85, that’s via an ECU, as it has throttle bodies, I was wondering if this was the magical stuff to keep the needle to the L of normal in +30c heat and London traffic, probably clutching at straws I’ll stick with what I know.
I’ve just had the manifolds coated in the best product zircotec offer in ceramic coating. Apparently reducing under bonnet temp by 33%!!
Not cheap, but should help with temperatures somewhat.

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul an override switch for the fans for slow traffic is usefull....Steve

[Simon P]

Hi Paul an override switch for the fans for slow traffic is usefull....Steve

[MarekH]

If you have (for example) 82'c thermostats, you can't run cooler than 82'c under any scenario, ever.

Thanks to hysteresis and the finite time it takes for water to circulate in a feedback loop back to the thermostat, you could be anywhere in a 12'c range above the thermostat opening temperature and still have your radiator capping the temperature as per design.

You already have what sounds like an adequate cooling system. I'd ensure the air coming through the bonnet mouth is directed only through the radiator, i.e. the foam shrouding is fitted and then simply run the fans whenever you feel it is too hot. Running them permanently always adds to the cooling efficiency, even at motorway speeds.

If you get worried, you can always add cooling capacity by deploying the heater matrix.

If it gets critical, employ the "heatsoak post-shutdown on v12s" strategy, which I posted on jag-lovers.com but probably linked in here somewhere a few years ago. This basically uses a radiator full of cold water to cool the cylinder head. It worked for Andrew's blue etype when he pulled into Bicester with steam literally coming out of all of his coolant hoses.

kind regards
Marek