Wheel arch clean and protect

[ollieamb]

Looking for solutions to clean and protect rear arches.

Recently picked up a 62 FHC and it has very old flaky under seal in places, I have removed most of it to bare metal, (some surface rust) so need to convert rust and protect, wheat have others done?

I would like to stone chip paint but would like some advice on preparation.

Thanks

[christopher storey]

Put Phosphoric acid ( available from agricultural merchants) on the surface rust, and leave for 24 hours then wire brush the rust off and reapply phosphoric and leave a further 24 hours . Then etch prime , and apply bodyschutz over the affected areas. Then ordinary primer and body colour on top .

[SteveG]

Ollie,

I have used products from Frosts before and found them to be very good. They do a Prep & Ready which leaves a zinc phosphate coating and acts as an etch primer. POR15 over the top will stop rust re-occuring (just make sure you read the instructions) and finally their tie coat primer leaves you free to finish with whatever top coat paint finish or stone chip etc you like. All good stuff and recommended IMO.

[ollieamb]

Thanks for the replies, I have been looking at the Bilt-Hamber products and Dinitrol, anyone used them

http://www.bilthamber.com/search-produc ... Prevention

[vee12eman]

Hi,

I used to use neat phosphoric acid in the past, it is the active ingredient in Jenolite and other rust treatments. It became my favourite and when I couldn't get it I went back to Jenolite etc.; I now use an Aussie equivalent. It's always better though to remove as much rust as possible mechanically, with sand or bearblasting the best option. You can get portable sand blast guns that work from a fairly small compressor if you aren't doing too large an area, but protest as quickly as possible afterward.
As to protection afterward, a good quality primer is a good start, I still like Red oxide primer. On top of that, or even directly on to the rust free surface, I used Rustbuster 121, which received very good write ups when tested by Practical Classics some time ago. I am very pleased with the results and vastly prefer it to Bodyshutz which is much less well regarded than it used to be. Rustbuster is a two part system, best applied with a roller for a tough, slightly flexible and nicely mottled finish, suitable for over painting or leaving unpainted. My wheel arches are overpainted, but the underside of the car is still black, straight from the can. I did the whole of the underside and also inside the floor for extra protection and sound deadening, which seems to work well. It compared well to Bilt Hamer products, which were my other option.
Go here for info:
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
Regards,

[ollieamb]

This is the reply from Bilt-Hamber....

Surfex-HD will help to remove the old underseal, especially when used with a pressure washer and hot water, however you will still need to use some mechanical means and also some type of solvent for example white spirit, cellulose thinners, or some kind of panel wipe. Once the cleaning is complete then the deox-gel should easily remove the surface rust.

Once the arches are back to bare metal then the best coatings to apply will be Electrox zinc rich primer which will act in the same way as galvanising so providing active protection, followed by a coat of epoxy-mastic which will provide very strong mechanical protection, you can then apply the stonechip. As an alternative you could skip the epoxy-mastic layer.

[skiday]

I concur with SteveG on the POR15. I have used it on my suspension parts and the whole underside of my car. However, you must follow the instructions to the letter, my painter didn?t and I had to strip the whole bulkhead twice. Grrrrr! (he put an unnecessary three coats of tie-coat barrier on without letting each coat dry for 24 hours).

I think it?s the same as the stuff they have just finished painting the fourth bridge with. However, only time will tell as to how long it keeps my car rust free; I?ll get back to you in five years.

[bfeng]

Personally, I'd sand blast, treat w navel jelly (phosphoric acid in a gel form), skim coat it nec) etch prime (activated primer such as Dupont Variprime), en finish coat. If desired, I'd put a nondrying (waxoyl?) based sealer on top of the finish paint coat. I am no longer a believer in schutz as I've seen it harden, crack and then trap moisture underneath. Trapped moisture accelerates the rusting process greatly, as much as an order of magnitude.

Yes, an quality activated etch primer underneath the schutz should be enough protection, but why risk it?

On my xk120, I've just stuck with paint in the fender wells and touch up stone chips once a month. I like the fact that I can see everything rather than having a coat of stone chip hiding the beginning on a rust spot.

[norman m. macleod]

Hi Simon,
Read your comments on 121 with interest....I am currently at that stage with my Series 1 4.2. I have been vacillating between POR15 and 121, but swinging towards the latter. Am also in Oz, but over in the Wild West.... is there a supplier in Australia, or did you get it from the UK supplier ? Any advice or comments appreciated.....
Thanks, and
Best regards,
Norman.

[vee12eman]

Hi Norman,

I'm afraid I haven't found an Aussie supplier - I bought mine whilst I was still in the UK and as I remember, it was only available from the supplier at that time. They were relatively local to me, but still sent it by mail, delivery wasn't too expensive but I don't know whether they will send it overseas. The site: http://www.rust.co.uk/ says contact them about export because there are difficulties in exporting small amounts of solvent. Airlines are reluctant to carry Solvents and even when I put the car and the rest of my life in a container to go on board ship when I migrated, I was told not to bring paint, oils or solvents; I guess they have rules/regulations and can't afford the risk.

This week I have had to buy some paint for a slightly different application and chose.... POR15! However I haven't even cracked the tin open yet, so I can't comment on how good it is. Even then, as I said the application is different so it won't be a direct comparison, but I'll let you know how if goes - I am intending to spray it, whereas I applied the 121 by roller.

If you do get them to send the 121 here, please let me know, because I would certainly buy it again.

Regards,