Dec '61 3.8 FHC returned from the US in '90 or thereabouts - now RHD - owned since July '10
When starting from cold, particularly if the car hasn't been run for a couple of days, it takes extensive cranking before the engine will fire and then takes further cranking before it will run. I then let the engine warm up for 5 to 10 mins or so and then drive. Once warm the engine starts with no problem at all - almost instantly as the button is pushed.
The engine turns over very well on the uprated starter motor and well maintained battery and I use the choke when starting from cold (never from hot) and can quickly reduce the choke setting to 50% once the engine has run for a minute or two. An electronic distributor is fitted and I believe the HT and plug leads are recent - they certainly look it.
The car runs and pulls very well once warm. I haven't messed with the carbs (standard 3 x SU set up with standard air filter assembly) since I've had the car so can't vouch for their condition, though to the ear they sound like they're in balance with no obvious difference in 'air' sound between them.
However given what appears to be the condition and effectiveness of the electrical side of things is it likely that there is a fuelling issue casuing the reluctant firing from cold? Unsurprisingly I guess, the cold weather perhaps accentuates the problem.
Suggestions?
GF
PS What ratio is my diff likely to be? LSD? The speedo is reading low i.e. at 60 mph the car's doing 70mph.
Starting from cold - tips?
#2
GF,
I have a 62 OTS series 1, electronic ignition and again my car does exactly the same as yours to the letter. It will at take about ten cranks of the engine to get it going after the winter period, but once warm will start straight off the button with no choke or acceleration required. When used daily or every couple of days it will generally start off full coke with no acceleration needed. In fact if you do press the accelerator it cocks up the procedure.
I think it maybe just a quirk of the 3.8, but othes will be along shortly to advise. I wonder if it is just taking time to prime the carbs after a long period of none use???
Tony
I have a 62 OTS series 1, electronic ignition and again my car does exactly the same as yours to the letter. It will at take about ten cranks of the engine to get it going after the winter period, but once warm will start straight off the button with no choke or acceleration required. When used daily or every couple of days it will generally start off full coke with no acceleration needed. In fact if you do press the accelerator it cocks up the procedure.
I think it maybe just a quirk of the 3.8, but othes will be along shortly to advise. I wonder if it is just taking time to prime the carbs after a long period of none use???
Tony
Tony (E typed)
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#3
Andrew Turvey of CMC on starting an E-Type on a cold morning - "turn off the choke completely, push the accelerator to the floor and hold it there whilst cranking the engine over. Usually the engine fires-up, struggles asthmatically for five seconds then dies. Hopefully, it will then fire-up again using a little choke and less throttle". Why? "....... throttle flat to the floor is to add huge amounts of air to the fuel that has already been drawn into the engine. The air/fuel ratio becomes correct and if we have a spark - hey presto!"
Counter intuitive but give it a go.
Counter intuitive but give it a go.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#4
My Nov '61 is exactly the same always takes ages to get started from cold. I knew there was the method that David suggests but forgot until I read it again. I must try it and see what happens.
Your diff is likely to be a 3.31:1 and it should be an LSD check the tags on the diff if you can see them.
Dave
Your diff is likely to be a 3.31:1 and it should be an LSD check the tags on the diff if you can see them.
Dave
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#5
And my '62 3.8 is also exactly the same.......
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
christopher storey
- Posts: 5698
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
- Location: cheshire , england

#6
The 4.2 is just the same . The inlet tract is very long on an E , and thus if the car has not been used for several days, it takes time to prime it. I find if I start the car every day, it is an instant starter if full choke is used.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
MarkE
- Posts: 884
- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 8:00 pm
- Location: Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire
- Contact:

#7
Last winter when starting the 4.2 for the first time in a couple of months after winter layup it started instantly. I mean, I literally didn't hear the starter, and the reving engine (on full choke) made me jump! Since then, the same as the rest....slow to start when cold.
But if it started instantly once, why not all the time?!
But if it started instantly once, why not all the time?!
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#8 Me too
My 3.8 OTS is just the same. After a week of garaging it is a real bummer to get going. Someone suggested the choke is not working all the way, i.e. adjustment issue.
I will try the flooring trick without using the choke.
My other old Jags with automatic cold start device, start on first or second attempt.
I will try the flooring trick without using the choke.
My other old Jags with automatic cold start device, start on first or second attempt.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |



