S U Carb conversion on E type V12

Yeldaw · Post by **Yeldaw** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:20 pm

I am having issues with the stromberg carbs on my V12 E type. I am probably going to have to either rebuild them or opt for an alternative. I am considering the SU conversion but was wondering whether anyone had fitted the conversion and whether it was worth going down this route. How difficult is it to do and roughly how long will it take a competent mechanic to fit. Are there any problems with the conversion. Or should I just get the strombergs rebuilt, I am not confident of doing this myself so I assume a rebuild will be expensive.

Thanks
Dave

Malk · Post by **Malk** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:50 am

Having gone through this exact dilema as I type you have 3 choices:
Buy the SU carbs outright (never got a cost!)
Get the carbs refurbed (min 8-10 weeks at moment as peak season)
Get the rebuild kits and do it yourself
Give the job to a competent mechanic to rebuild
The rebuild kits with genuine parts are available from here http://www.carburettorspecialists.com at a cost of ?80 each. This is what I did this week and Simon Hemsley is cirrently rebuilding mine. I knew the 8-10 weeks would prob be 12 weeks and just want the car back on the road having been without it for last month or so and anothe lovely weekend coming up!

Apparently it does run better on the less complex SU's but emissions less with Strombergs.

Simon reckons 2hours per carb to rebuild so refurb at ?400-?500 is cheapest route from a financial sense but I will end up with similar job and not have them cleaned back.

There is plenty into on Carbs on this forum......

Malcolm

vee12eman · Post by **vee12eman** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:27 am

Hi,

I am surprised how many people seem to have issues with stromberg carbs. they are really not that complicated and, provided you have patience, are one of the easier things to rebuild. The kits are good, the information is out there, both online and in books and you can do them while sitting down at a bench rather than when crawling around on the floor and, at the end of the day, if you do screw up the rebuild, you can still buy reconditioned replacements or the conversion to SU or similar. The old carbs will sell on eBay, but really, it's not that difficult to rebuild them and very rewarding. It's likely many of the problems people face are simply down to dirt and/or wear which will be removed when the new parts are fitted.

Anyhow, I can't comment on the difference between the systems, but I doubt there is much in reality as they are basically similar, although they do have slightly different methods of getting there.

Good luck either way,

Regards,

Simon.

Post by **Heuer** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:17 am

I should point out our 'Knowledge Base' contains links to no less than four guide's detailing Stromberg overhaul including one which runs to 74 pages!
http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1664

Stromberg Overhaul Guide (74 pages!): http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/Buckeye ... mberg2.pdf
Stromberg manual (Leyland): http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/Stromberg%20Leyland.pdf
Stromberg Needle guide: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/stromberg_needle.xls
Stromberg Strip down by David Lacey: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/Strombe ... 20down.pdf

MarekH · Post by **MarekH** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 1:33 pm

Dear Dave,
Given David's input regarding the wealth of knowledge just sitting there, I'd simply buy 4 rebuild kits from Burlen - i.e. the people who make them and then do them myself.

A quick read of the guides David points to ought to convince you that it is no more complicated than an airfix kit.

Changing to SU is an expensive way of not really achieving much.

kind regards
Marek

Mark Gordon · Post by **Mark Gordon** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 2:29 pm

My mechanical skills are basic, at best. However, I rebuilt the Stromberg on my old Spitfire twice and found it to be very easy. If I were you, I wouldn't hesitate to take the job on. You'll save time and money and gain a better understanding of how the Stromberg carb works which will help in trouble shooting any fuel problems that you may have in the future. Plus, you'll get the satisfaction of having done the job and fixed the problem yourself.

Yeldaw · Post by **Yeldaw** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:04 pm

Thanks everyone, I looked at the 74 page document in the knowledge base and it says that if the float chamber empties it can result in residue being left on the needle valve stoping it from closing. The original problem with the carb was it was leaking from the plug in the float chamber and this was completely empty of fuel, so I changed the o ring a week or so ago. Also someone had taken out the fuel filter and there was alot of residue in the glass bowl so I installed a new fuel filter.
I then followed the advice dropped the float plug (I have the brass ones that unscrew so there is not enough room to take them out fully), tapped the float chamber several times, disconnect the fuel line at the carb and sprayed carb cleaner into the fuel input tube left it soak for 30 minutes reinstall the plug and fuel line and amazingly no leak.
I have also bought a couple of service kits, floats, needle valves etc just in case
Thanks Again
Dave

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S U Carb conversion on E type V12

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