Hi, I seem to remember reading that one should replace all the water pipes inside the bulkhead when the dashtop and wiper rack is removed because it will be much more difficult to replace them if they break at a later time.
My pipes seems ok, but I plan to change them anyway. I have bought the three water pipes from SNG Barratt (standard materials, not stainless). But should I also replace the vacuum pipe? If so, do anybody know what partnumber I should be looking for? Cant find the part in the partlist. I have a 1968 Series 1,5 OTS.
And what kind of pop rivets should I use? Aluminium or stainless?
Bulkhead water and vacuum pipes
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norman m. macleod
- Posts: 227
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- Location: Perth, Western Australia
#2 Bulkhead water and vacuum pipes
Hi Jonr,
I am in the middle of doing the same on my 1967 Series 1. I think the arrangement on the Series 1.5 is the same, although it changed completely on the Series 2. I comment as follows:-
(1) Whether they (the water pipes) look OK or not, better to change them now, as they are 40+ years old, and the job is much easier with the wiper rack mechanism and dash top out (even easier with the windscreen out as well.....!) Whilst you're at it, it is beneficial to install insulating sleeving on them, for obvious reasons...
(2) The part number for the vacuum pipe on a LHD car is C25308, same as the Series 1, as far as I am aware. On a RHD, there are two pipes, C25308 and C26612. I assume yours is a LHD. SNG Barratt supplied mine, but one was a long wait. Whether to replace it/them is up to you, they obviously do not corrode like the water pipes do.
(3) As far as the pop rivets go, depends how original you want to be. I used stainless steel. Would avoid aluminium, but not too sure what Jaguar used originally (steel...?) Who'd notice......!
Hope this assists.....
Kind regards,
Norman.
Perth, Western Australia.
I am in the middle of doing the same on my 1967 Series 1. I think the arrangement on the Series 1.5 is the same, although it changed completely on the Series 2. I comment as follows:-
(1) Whether they (the water pipes) look OK or not, better to change them now, as they are 40+ years old, and the job is much easier with the wiper rack mechanism and dash top out (even easier with the windscreen out as well.....!) Whilst you're at it, it is beneficial to install insulating sleeving on them, for obvious reasons...
(2) The part number for the vacuum pipe on a LHD car is C25308, same as the Series 1, as far as I am aware. On a RHD, there are two pipes, C25308 and C26612. I assume yours is a LHD. SNG Barratt supplied mine, but one was a long wait. Whether to replace it/them is up to you, they obviously do not corrode like the water pipes do.
(3) As far as the pop rivets go, depends how original you want to be. I used stainless steel. Would avoid aluminium, but not too sure what Jaguar used originally (steel...?) Who'd notice......!
Hope this assists.....
Kind regards,
Norman.
Perth, Western Australia.
1967 S1 2+2
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#3
Thank you Norman, this was precisely the information I was seeking.
I have a LHD car, tried to find the part at SNG Barrat's web without luck, but now I know what to ask for :)
I have the windscreen out as well so I think the best would be to change all the pipes now at this time.
Kind regards
Jon
Oslo, Norway
I have a LHD car, tried to find the part at SNG Barrat's web without luck, but now I know what to ask for :)
I have the windscreen out as well so I think the best would be to change all the pipes now at this time.
Kind regards
Jon
Oslo, Norway
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#4
Jon
These pipes are readily available so shouldn't be difficult to source. Don't use stainless steel (too hard to bend) or mild steel (will rot out if being used for heater transfer). Try and buy copper if possible.
These pipes are readily available so shouldn't be difficult to source. Don't use stainless steel (too hard to bend) or mild steel (will rot out if being used for heater transfer). Try and buy copper if possible.
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047
61 OTS 875047
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norman m. macleod
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 11:34 am
- Location: Perth, Western Australia
#5 Bulkhead water and vacuum pipes
Hi all,
A word of caution on the use of copper piping. The steel of the bulkhead and copper are far enough apart on the galvanic/anodic table, (0.5V- 0.6V) to potentially give a worse corrosion potential than steel to steel. This assumes contact between the two dissimilar metals, and it would be unwise to assume that the paint may prevent this, as the pop rivets will do it anyway (for the same reason, my comment on aluminium rivets). PH and type of additives in the cooling water will also affect the long-term outcome.............
Regards,
Norman
A word of caution on the use of copper piping. The steel of the bulkhead and copper are far enough apart on the galvanic/anodic table, (0.5V- 0.6V) to potentially give a worse corrosion potential than steel to steel. This assumes contact between the two dissimilar metals, and it would be unwise to assume that the paint may prevent this, as the pop rivets will do it anyway (for the same reason, my comment on aluminium rivets). PH and type of additives in the cooling water will also affect the long-term outcome.............
Regards,
Norman
1967 S1 2+2
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#6
My new heatpipes from SNG Barratt are made of copper. So maybe I should try to create an insulation between the copper and steel. I can put a fiber or rubber washer between copper and steel and in addition extends the hole where the pop rivet should be such that the rivet goes through a fiber socket. Then there is no contact between the copper and steel.
The old vacuum tube is made of aluminum. It looks pretty good so maybe I can keep it. (It's out of stock at SNG Barratt)
The old vacuum tube is made of aluminum. It looks pretty good so maybe I can keep it. (It's out of stock at SNG Barratt)
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norman m. macleod
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 11:34 am
- Location: Perth, Western Australia
#7 Bulkhead water and Vacuum pipes
Hi again Jon,
If you do as you have described, (on the water pipes) you will probably be OK. The electrical/anodic separation will probably give you another 30-40 years (at least) of trouble-free operation. Forget about the vacuum pipe, it'll probably be OK anyway, unless you are conscience-driven to replace it for peace of mind (as I have done.....!)
My comment re insulation of the water pipes may not be as relevant in Norway as here in Western Australia, where we try to keep as much waste heat as possible out of the cabin area, but no harm in doing it whilst you're in there......My restoration includes total insulation (internal) of all the relevant floor and other surfaces, and external insulation of the lower bulkhead and gearbox tunnel, etc........unfortunately we have to put up with 300+ days per year at 24-34 deg C and blue skies (someone has to do it.....)
Best regards,
Norman.
If you do as you have described, (on the water pipes) you will probably be OK. The electrical/anodic separation will probably give you another 30-40 years (at least) of trouble-free operation. Forget about the vacuum pipe, it'll probably be OK anyway, unless you are conscience-driven to replace it for peace of mind (as I have done.....!)
My comment re insulation of the water pipes may not be as relevant in Norway as here in Western Australia, where we try to keep as much waste heat as possible out of the cabin area, but no harm in doing it whilst you're in there......My restoration includes total insulation (internal) of all the relevant floor and other surfaces, and external insulation of the lower bulkhead and gearbox tunnel, etc........unfortunately we have to put up with 300+ days per year at 24-34 deg C and blue skies (someone has to do it.....)
Best regards,
Norman.
1967 S1 2+2
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