Helo

Brendan · Post by **Brendan** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:34 pm

hi

Current carer for series 1 4.2. Still working through occasional engine stops last year. Run 40 or so miles no problem then dies. Wait 30 mins and will resatart and run fine. Only to repeat few miles later. Just about to pull out fuel feed and petrol tank sump.....

Brendan

Post by **Heuer** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 6:36 pm

Three things to look for:

1. Cracked rotor arm - as dizzy gets hot any crack will open up causing tracking. Make sure you have the one with the contact moulded to the body, not riveted. ?3.91 from SNG.

2. Check the tank sump filter - sediment will get stirred up as you drive and block the gauze filter stopping the engine. After the sediment settles it will re-start.

3. Replace the coil with a known good one. As the coil gets hot the windings can break down causing the engine to stop. After it has cooled it will re-start. Sports coil ?17.16 from SNG.

Brendan · Post by **Brendan** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:58 pm

Thanks David

I was working on a similar list in the reverse order......

Will change the arm anyway too

Brendan

Brendan · Post by **Brendan** » Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:15 pm

Well failed again this morning :(

After starting first time and running for 30 miles car coughed and failed to proceed just as entering M25. So no Brands Hatch for me today but nice man with yellow lorry brought me home.

Last few weeks have seen new dis cap and rotor arm, cleaned up sump (was clean anyway). End of 2012 saw new coil and distributor with leads and plugs.

So am wondering if there may be some broken wire in what looks like original harness. Ofcourse car starts first time now, if slightly rough, and I notive ammeter waves from C to D a bit. Battery ok and car on trickle device when in garage.

Any other suggestions or upgrade advice to loom (additional relays etc.) while I consult manuals with cuppa tea?

Brendan

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:33 pm

Have you looked at the fuel filler cap ? There are various versions of these on Es , but some are designed to be vented , and if one fits an unvented cap in such circumstances , a partial vacuum can gradually develop in the fuel tank which eventually stops the engine. This would be consistent with your experience(s) . It is fairly easy to detect. Run the car for some miles and then stop and remove the filler cap. If there is a great inwards whoosh of air, the vacuum is clearly established. The answer then is to drill a small ( 2 to 3mm will do ) hole in the cap

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