Clutch Slave adjustment / thrust bearing

[Candellara]

Hi Chaps

Thought i'd canvas your expert opinions on this.

I've been thinking that the thrust bearing requires replacement however, i'd like to rule something out of the equation before i embark on engine removal.

The clutch operation is fine however i get an intermittent "clutch bearing noise" when the pedal is depressed. I stress intermittent as it only occurs approx 50% of the time. Other times - no noise whatsover.

This got me thinking (logically) as to when this issue started to occur and thinking back, this issue only manifested itself since a leaky clutch slave was replaced.

I haven't looked underneath as my local XK specialist replaced this part. Is there adjustment from the slave through to the clutch fork / bearing? and could incorrect adjustment be causing an intermittent bearing rumble when the clutch is depressed?

I just wish to rule out everything prior to biting the bullet and pulling the engine (as an aside, they told me the engine / gearbox needed to come out as the tailshaft was leaking and it turnt out to be the speedo drive o-ring which i managed to do in situ)

Any advise would be very much appreciated

Jason

[1954Etype]

Jason, there should be about an eighth of an inch free play on the slave pushrod. Easy to adjust.

[Candellara]

Jason, there should be about an eighth of an inch free play on the slave pushrod. Easy to adjust.

Any step by step guide? Sorry! :-)

[1954Etype]

Everything you need is in your handbook or manual (lots of drawings as well!)

[Candellara]

Everything you need is in your handbook or manual (lots of drawings as well!)

I think i need to get hold of a manual ! :-) For those interested (and as i can't seem to upload pics here), there's a re-commisioning thread running here:


http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/sho ... gh-already!)

[Candellara]

Ok, i think i might be getting there :-)

Had a good look today and the freeplay of an eighth of an inch seems correct however, after depressing the clutch, the slave piston and hence clutch fork is very very slow to return to it's correct position.

I have noticed that my car doesn't have any return spring (or associated bracket to affix spring to) as depicted in various diagrams?

I am sure that it did have this prior to the clutch slave being replaced by my local specialist (the noise has only occured since the slave was changed some months ago)

Could this be the route of my intermittent "rumbling / clutch release bearing noise"?

[tinworm]

Hi There - if you detach the clutch pushrod by removing the split and celvis pins you will be able to move the clutch fork on its own . You should be able to move it freely and it will feel quite loose and smooth , you will also feel it connect with the clutch cover at the end of its stroke . The E type uses a carbon release bearing not a ball bearing type - this item when new will have about 1/4" to 3/8" ' meat ' on it before the carbon is worn away and the metal part of the release bearing comes into contact with the clutch cover bearing surface this is then worn out . The clutch fork can seize on its pivot in the bellhousing and be stiff to move - this could cause the clutch release bearing to be in contact with the clutch cover all the time and will wear the release bearing out rapidly - cars that are not used very often can suffer from this type of thing. Gearbox removal is the only way to deal with both problems.

regards Barrie

[Candellara]

Hi There - if you detach the clutch pushrod by removing the split and celvis pins you will be able to move the clutch fork on its own . You should be able to move it freely and it will feel quite loose and smooth , you will also feel it connect with the clutch cover at the end of its stroke . The E type uses a carbon release bearing not a ball bearing type - this item when new will have about 1/4" to 3/8" ' meat ' on it before the carbon is worn away and the metal part of the release bearing comes into contact with the clutch cover bearing surface this is then worn out . The clutch fork can seize on its pivot in the bellhousing and be stiff to move - this could cause the clutch release bearing to be in contact with the clutch cover all the time and will wear the release bearing out rapidly - cars that are not used very often can suffer from this type of thing. Gearbox removal is the only way to deal with both problems.

regards Barrie

Hi Barrie

Yes, the clutch fork moves quite freely on it's own. What purpose does the spring on the clutch slave cylinder serve? as i've heard some car's have these and some don't?

[tinworm]

The spring keeps the pushrod firmly connected to the cylinder piston and the clutch fork fully back with the release bearing at its maximum clearance and out of harms way.

regards Barrie

[Candellara]

The spring keeps the pushrod firmly connected to the cylinder piston and the clutch fork fully back with the release bearing at its maximum clearance and out of harms way.

regards Barrie

Thanks Barrie

Have ordered required parts today & will fit them at the weekend, along with a new set of Michelin XWX tyres which i also ordered today. It's been an expensive month :-)

[Cgarside]

Around '65 the return spring was deleted from the Slave cylinder. After this, the slave cylinder was changed (part no changes can be found in the factory parts manual) so the the piston effectively 'rests' along the bore when the system has no hydraulic pressure present. I believe this change was introduced to avoid the need to re-set the slave pushrods length as the release bearing wears. It is important to have the correct pushrods for the later slave cylinder. Mixing early and later slave cylinders and pushrods can result in a clutch which does not properly disengage.
Regards
Chris