Crankshaft rope seal

[DT]

Currently rebuilding my 4.2 series 2 and have decided to keep the rope seal I have just removed the old one and the joint was not at the housing split but 90 degrees to it. Is this normal as all the information I have seen shows the join at the housing split. Can someone point me to a thread or video as how to fit the seal. The workshop manual is sadly lacking. All help welcome as I don't want a leaking engine

Thanks

[Mark Gordon]

There are quite a few videos on YouTube describing the process, but I couldn't find any that are specific to the XK engine. However, the technique is pretty much the same as described here:

For other videos, just go to YouTube and in the search box enter "engine rope seal installation."
You are correct in that the ends of the rope seal should be flush with the block surface when done.

[norman m. macleod]

The technique shown in that link (Mustang engine) is of no help whatsoever, indeed, quite inappropriate, when fitting the rear rope seal to a 6-cylinder XK engine.
Firstly, and most importantly, the XK seal cannot be fitted properly with the crankshaft in place. Secondly, (in my view at least), a seal sizing tool is essential for this task. Officially JD 17B, they are available from Rob Beere at around 90 quid. Well worth it, try costing a serious oil leak at a later stage.....
The seal halves (2x C 19654) as original Jaguar spares were pre-cut to "exact length", but the current seals supplied from the usual lot are over length, and do require cutting, but more of that later....
First, the seal halves should be placed on a flat hard surface and tapped on the side faces to reduce the section and allow insertion into the seal housings. they should then be rolled into the housings until you are certain they are hard against the bottom of the groove in the seal housing(s).
At this point they should be carefully removed, a (very) light coating of a suitable sealant applied to the faces in contact with the housing(s), and re-inserted and re-rolled firmly into the housing(s). Jaguar used to recommend Red Hermetite, but I use Three-Bond 1215, much superior product. They can then be cut flush with the housing(s) faces, although I prefer to leave about a 0.010" protrusion on one half housing.
With crankshaft out, and no shells in the rearmost main bearing, the two halves can be assembled together, followed by the whole assembly to the rear of the block. If not already fitted, replace the Jaguar screws (later engines) with proper high-tensile Allen type socket screws......
The inside of the seal assembly should then be given a liberal application of an assembly "super-lube", ( I use TORCO MPZ, but there are several others around.....) The seal sizer tool can now be inserted and rotated until fully forward, the withdrawn by rotating and twisting.
I do believe the above is the only way to get a correctly fitted and concentric seal. The rope seal on the XK engine comes in for a lot of flak, but I think it works quite well if carefully and properly fitted .....
Hope this helps.....
Regards, Norman.

[christopher storey]

There is one thing , with respect, which Norman has not mentioned , and it is an essential step to take before fitting a rope seal , which is to soak the seal in engine oil for at least 24 hours before fitment . I put it in a small plastic bag and leave it for a couple of days

[norman m. macleod]

The reason I didn't mention it, Christopher, is because I don't do it.....for two reasons, firstly, the sealant on the housing groove to seal interface will not work if the seal is thus soaked, and, secondly, I apply a fair bit of the molysupergloop at the time of assembly, and thereafter from time to time, with regular crankshaft rotation, prior to closing up with the sump (some considerable time in my case, I must admit.....!) However, everyone to their own..........
Kind regards,
Norman.

[Mark Gordon]

My apologies. I have no idea how I copied the link for the Mustang rope seal installation. Here is the one that I intended to post. As I stated previously, I could not find a video showing the rope seal installation in an XK engine, This one shows the basic process which is similar to that of the XK. The sizing tool is certainly desirable, but not essential.

[DT]

Thanks for excellent information and link to U tube

Basic question is should seal be soaked in oil and what are best sealants to use if it is

Any more information welcome before I start the dreaded task

Many thanks all

[norman m. macleod]

I consider the seal halves, once installed, are more likely to spin in the case of some tightness in the critical first few minutes of operation, if oil-soaked. I note that this is the condition that DT found his in, on disassembly.........
I agree that the Workshop Manual for the E-Type is singularly unhelpful on this task, but the (much later) Series lll XJ6 Manual is much more specific on the method (same seal.....) and generally reflects that which I described.
Best regards,
Norman.

[christopher storey]

Well, I'm afraid that although I understand the point he makes -although if properly sized the risk of spinning is minimal - I really cannot agree with Norman. A large number of the failures of rope seals seem to result from not soaking them before applying them . The reason for this is that ( as explained by the Australian video on the Holden V8 ) when soaked they are much more pliable and thus crush down to the correct size within the housing and do not shrink further with use . Certainly the seals I have used have all come with instructions to pre-soak , including the graphited seals which are the modern replacement for asbestos rope