Exhaust manifold brass nuts
#1 Exhaust manifold brass nuts
Avoid with your life.
Driving along and that little exhaust blow creeps up on you.
It gets louder under acceleration but goes away on the overrun.
Its the old cracked exhaust manifold noise again!
After 2 hours stripping the offside of the engine, fiddling like a
arthritic watch maker . the manifolds are OK its the brass nuts
that have come loose (again).
My advice is to fit the modern version metal locking manifold nuts.
Yes I have 20 but I still have 4 hrs to replace the brass ones.
Rather frustrating you know
Dave C
Driving along and that little exhaust blow creeps up on you.
It gets louder under acceleration but goes away on the overrun.
Its the old cracked exhaust manifold noise again!
After 2 hours stripping the offside of the engine, fiddling like a
arthritic watch maker . the manifolds are OK its the brass nuts
that have come loose (again).
My advice is to fit the modern version metal locking manifold nuts.
Yes I have 20 but I still have 4 hrs to replace the brass ones.
Rather frustrating you know
Dave C
ITS NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE ITS HOW GOOD YOU LOOK IN IT
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#2
The fix seems to be Nord-Lock washers: http://www.nord-lock.com/ I used these under the eight nuts at the downpipe joint and they have not come loose. Which metal locking nuts did you use?
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#3
Hi David The manifold to head studs do not have sufficient thread
to fit a lock or spring washer.
So I am using exhaust manifold nuts with a metal locking rather
than nyloc locking.
DC
to fit a lock or spring washer.
So I am using exhaust manifold nuts with a metal locking rather
than nyloc locking.
DC
ITS NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE ITS HOW GOOD YOU LOOK IN IT
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
PeterCrespin
- Posts: 4561
- Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:22 pm
- Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland.
- Contact:

#4
To save confusing our American brethren even further, you worked on the nearside of the engine, not the offside. Which is why referring to the left or right side of the car is universally understood in a way that offside/nearside or driver/passenger side are not.
Pete
Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
PeterCrespin
- Posts: 4561
- Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:22 pm
- Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland.
- Contact:

#5
Apologies, I read David's post about his exhaust and got mixed up. I assume your car is an S3 with exhausts both sides. Right/left still makes most sense though.
Pete
Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#6
I posted in the Series 3 forum only because it is some what of a time consuming job.
Where as on a S1 or S2 it is a hours job and easy considering.
DC
Where as on a S1 or S2 it is a hours job and easy considering.
DC
ITS NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE ITS HOW GOOD YOU LOOK IN IT
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#7 exhaust manifold brass nuts
I had the same problem with my S3. One of the brass nuts loosened and eventually the gasket blew out on that cylinder.
What a mission to change the gaskets, hours of lying on my back trying to get small spanners onto the nuts. The rearmost one by the bulkhead was almost impossible, required removing the starter motor, and lower splash shield, for manifold removal and access.
I have since tried to re tighten the brass nuts, but not all are accessible with the splash and heat shields in place.
So what size Nordlock washers are required for the manifold studs? I will use them next time, heaven forbid, if required.
What a mission to change the gaskets, hours of lying on my back trying to get small spanners onto the nuts. The rearmost one by the bulkhead was almost impossible, required removing the starter motor, and lower splash shield, for manifold removal and access.
I have since tried to re tighten the brass nuts, but not all are accessible with the splash and heat shields in place.
So what size Nordlock washers are required for the manifold studs? I will use them next time, heaven forbid, if required.
Mark Brown
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#8
It is actually easier attacked from the top.
Take the bolts out of the engine mounting on the side you
are doing and just jack the engine up an inch.
Splash guard removal is required
DC
Take the bolts out of the engine mounting on the side you
are doing and just jack the engine up an inch.
Splash guard removal is required
DC
ITS NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE ITS HOW GOOD YOU LOOK IN IT
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#9 brass exhaust nuts
Thanks for that tip.
I hope there isn't another time, but I will certainly try that idea.
I hope there isn't another time, but I will certainly try that idea.
Mark Brown
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |




