Hello all, I'm kind of new here so bear with my lack of protocol. I've been DIY restoring my e type interior (rustproofing floorpans, thermoacoustic barrier, re do carpet etc) and now that I'm ready to lay down barrier and eventually put seats back in (66 roadster/LHD), I noticed a captive nut welded onto tunnel and sticking out like a wart. It's located along tunnel/passenger side just opposite handbrake. I cannot remember its purpose?? Before I go thru the pains of putting the console back in and covering up the captive nut I thought it'd be prudent to ask first if anyone here could tell me what it's for. Thanks for any advice. This is hands down the best forum I've discovered. I'd leave a foto but not sure how to submit
Reanime
Captive nut along tunnel passenger side
#2
It is most likely for the front retaining bolt on the central console which covers the tunnel. This has three bolts, two at the rear near the rear bulkhead, one on each side, and one at the front on the side opposite the handbrake lever. There should be two more of your "warts" at the rear, therefore.
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#3
John,kingzetts wrote:It is most likely for the front retaining bolt on the central console which covers the tunnel. This has three bolts, two at the rear near the rear bulkhead, one on each side, and one at the front on the side opposite the handbrake lever. There should be two more of your "warts" at the rear, therefore.
Isn't the rearmost captive nuts inside the tunnel? The centre console at least on my car which is very early I admit is held in place by the seatbelt eyebolt at the rear.
Dave
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#4
Yes it would make sense that this captive nut would secure the console midway since console will cover it up but there is no bolt on the outside or inside of my console where it covers up captive nut. It is possible that a prior restoration covered it up. As it stands, the rear of my console is secured by dual purpose seatbelt nuts on both sides and then I suppose radio/ashtray complex pins it down in front. Odd though that there's only one captive nut at this midway point and only on passengers side. Many thanks for your reply along with any further theories before I deal it up
Thanks again
Thanks again
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#5
Dave,
On my '62 3.8 all three captive nuts for the console are external to the tunnel metalwork. The seat belt eye bolts at the rear also secure the console but of course on a '62 car there is no requirement for seat belts to be fitted so the console needs its own fixings to cope with the case where no belts were fitted.
Reanime,
I agree only having one fixing at the front is illogical but that's the way it was built. There should be three matching holes in the console metalwork, its not unusual to see these having been hidden beneath a retrim. You need to look on the untrimmed inside of the console for the holes.
On my '62 3.8 all three captive nuts for the console are external to the tunnel metalwork. The seat belt eye bolts at the rear also secure the console but of course on a '62 car there is no requirement for seat belts to be fitted so the console needs its own fixings to cope with the case where no belts were fitted.
Reanime,
I agree only having one fixing at the front is illogical but that's the way it was built. There should be three matching holes in the console metalwork, its not unusual to see these having been hidden beneath a retrim. You need to look on the untrimmed inside of the console for the holes.
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#6
Ha! You were right. Found the hole from inside console metal which was concealed by the thin wraparound tail of vinyl/pleather done by PO upholsterer. Which means it wasn't anything I missed when breaking down. I guess now the question is what does the purist prefer for the exposed bolt?...chrome pan head/ flat head bolt or were the originals the usual 7/16 hex bolt?
And, while I'm at it, any tips on putting console back in would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking forward to this as it was a serious battle pulling it forward and out to clear the handbrake slit all the while gearshift and dash were preventing the forward shift
You guys are great , thanks for your help!!
And, while I'm at it, any tips on putting console back in would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking forward to this as it was a serious battle pulling it forward and out to clear the handbrake slit all the while gearshift and dash were preventing the forward shift
You guys are great , thanks for your help!!
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#7
Well, I used some stainless steel pan head machine screws with broad flat washers underneath. But then I'm not much of a stickler for originality and I couldn't tell you what the "correct" fitment is.
Getting the console over the handbrake lever requires that you sort of twist the console sideways and at a slight angle, with the lever pulled as close to vertical as it will go. The trick is not to attempt to push the head of the lever (which is lipped) through the hole square-on but at an angle so the lip goes through one side of the slot before the other. In my car which has a T5 5-speed box, the upper section of the gear lever is detachable and I fit the console first, then fit the upper section of the shift lever, which makes clearing the gear lever a lot easier.
Getting the console over the handbrake lever requires that you sort of twist the console sideways and at a slight angle, with the lever pulled as close to vertical as it will go. The trick is not to attempt to push the head of the lever (which is lipped) through the hole square-on but at an angle so the lip goes through one side of the slot before the other. In my car which has a T5 5-speed box, the upper section of the gear lever is detachable and I fit the console first, then fit the upper section of the shift lever, which makes clearing the gear lever a lot easier.
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#8
Excellent advice on the angle approach with console install. I needed that and I will try that. It's gonna be a bear. Really appreciate the mystery solved on the captive nut. (By the way, the same bolt hole is on opposite side of console where handbrake is but no captive nut there obviously due to handbrake but the hole on both sides of console made it universal fit for LHD & RHD. will confidently proceed now with putting back console unit after I lay thermoacoustic. I guess my final concern is whether or not to cover up all the weepholes in floorpan valleys when I start laying the Eastwood peel'n'seal thermoacoustic barrier against bare metal. I'll probably cut out holes in the peel n seal to keep weepholes patent and then put underlayment and carpet over the open weepholes. Just wondering now if this is a bad idea and let more moisture in than out. Anyhow, many thanks again for the tips!
Reanime.
Reanime.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |



