Rear oil seal oil leak

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:43 pm

For the record, there are two split seal kits available (that I am aware of). The first uses a spring type lip seal. The seal is cut through on one edge, and the spring has small hooks on either end. The seal must be slipped over the crank surface, and then squeezed together. The glue is applied at the split. Then the spring must be inserted around the lip and hooked together. This seal requires machining of the crank surface, and it comes with special seal carrier halves.

The second seal was developed by Bill Terry (Terry's Jaguar), and also requires that the crank be resized. It uses a two part General Motors seal, which is a stiff Teflon (without a spring). The seal halves mount on specially machined seal carriers. The portion that bolts to the back of the block is attached (with the seal) prior to setting the crank in place. A small dab of sealant (not super glue) is placed on the seal mating surfaces. The second half is then placed over the crank surface and the two halves are fastened together. This is the kit recommended by Lippincot's Garage, a well known U.S. Jaguar specialist. It's simple and apparently bulletproof.

I have inspected both kits, and selected the one from Terry's. That said, I know of two local owners who used the spring seal kits with excellent results. Both acknowledge that there are opportunities for installation error, however.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:04 am

frogeater wrote:Hello Tony,
What a good news!
You must find something (?) for your child because it can't last forever like that: an electrical and a oil problem, that's too much!

Hi Emmanuel,

Nice to hear from you again, how is the house(castle) coming on. Have you progressed it much on the work?

rfs1957 · Post by **rfs1957** » Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:57 pm

Look at the November 2011 exchanges in this thread

http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... c&start=10

where I discovered a "new" source, unmentioned so far in this one, of leaks that turned out to be responsible for most of my drips.

frogeater · Post by **frogeater** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:49 pm

Hello Tony,
Last year was a big year for the roof in term of frame and tiles. But it's not finished... (in one year I hope to have finished 75% of the roof and make the 25% in 4 years: it's a long terme project

)
This year (2014) will be a good one for the e type...
Come and see by yourself on the next gpao (6,7 8 of june) (I promise you more beer than wine, this time :) )

utz · Post by **utz** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 2:35 pm

Hi Friends,

I have found a split crank lip seal at the car from a friend

does someone know where i can buy a new?

regards
Utz

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:11 pm

I thought about a variation of the theme.

MAYBE I am an idiot, but please read on and tell me if this would work ?

a) I might get a highly polished tube made to slip on TOP of the spiral on the crank, cut in 2 halves.

b) I would then fill the spiral area with JB Weld, and put the two halves on the spiral part. It will glue due to the JB Weld, and it will be oil- tight for the same reason.

c) (addendum: IF needed I can heat it with a torch, burning the JBWeld away and get back to spec with a wire brush on an angle grinder, so this is a revertable mod !)

d) I modify the outer case which else hosts the 2 ropes to accept a standard oil seal, cut this in 2 halves and glue it and fit it?s spring as with the other kits.

Advanteage: No need to grind the crank and I can go back if needed.

Disadvanteage: Still a glued seal AND the 2 gap where the halfes of the shell meet. BUT - the JBWeld should fill them, and you can relatively easy polish them at home: Put crank on floor, take long stripe of sanding paper, lay around tube, and push-pull it. Do it up to 1200 stone, and it?ll be fine.

JB Weld does not get attacked by oil, and it a ~0.1 mm gap or less it would work I bet.

???

Carsten

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:10 pm

Hmmm!! and when your Heath Robinson contraption parts company with the crank, what happens then? Damaged block ? Damaged flywheel ? Damaged bellhousing? or damage to all 3? Advice : don't even think about it. Why not just do the rope seal job properly - it doesn't take long and, provided the seals have been pre-soaked in oil for several days , and are sized properly, works extremely well

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:15 pm

.. I have no idea where to get the correct tool, here in germany, that?s the main problem.

Heath Robinson - I had to google this.

I would thought something like MacGyver ? The man to build a nuclear bomb from some chewing gum, some wires + ductape and a pocket knife ?

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacGyver

Carsten

Mark Gordon · Post by **Mark Gordon** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:56 pm

Carsten,
As you know, I'm no mechanical wizard, but my rope seal is not leaking after about 1600 miles. When done carefully and correctly, it should give you good service. Soak it in engine oil for at least a few days. Longer is probably better. Then follow the directions in the shop manual. (I did not have the proper Churchill tool. You can use a piece of pipe that is about the size of the crankshaft, or slightly smaller. to seat the seal and then use the crankshaft itself to finalize the fitting.) I would be leery of experimenting with an untested solution no matter how innovative.

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sun Nov 24, 2013 3:05 am

Please try this modification for all our benefits.

You'll have to work out what the lesson would be...

Pete

utz · Post by **utz** » Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:34 am

No one????

Moeregaard · Post by **Moeregaard** » Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:04 pm

Utz, is there a number on the seal, and if there is would you please post it? This will help greatly in your search for a new one.

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Mon Nov 25, 2013 6:41 pm

I know that SNG Barratt currently sells the kits with the spring type seals (the seal itself is cut in one place on the radius and is a clamshell arrangement). If that is what you found, it is likely from SNG. A way to verify this is to check if the bearing surface on the crank has been resized to 75mm, as that is the specification for using the seal in their kit. I did not find any numbers on the seal they sent with their kit (which I later returned as I selected the Terry's kit instead). The seal in the Terry's Jaguar kit uses a resized bearing surface diameter of 2.632 inches.

utz · Post by **utz** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:52 am

no number

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 12:46 pm

It's difficult to determine from the photo, but it looks like the surface where the seal contacts the crankshaft might still have the "scroll" groove. If that is the case, it probably was not machined for the seal in the current SNG kit. Again, if you check the diameter of the crankshaft where the seal is located, and it is 75mm, then the seal surface was machined and a replacement seal can probably be obtained from SNG Barratt. If it is the original diameter as specified by Jaguar , and the groove for the scroll is still present, then I would have no idea....and of course, the seal would have leaked for sure.

utz · Post by **utz** » Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:17 am

Thanks a lot! My crank is 74.95..so I will order the SNG Kit.

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Wed Nov 27, 2013 3:54 pm

Keep in mind that the entire SNG "kit" includes the specially machined castings that carry the seal. If you indeed have the SNG kit, then you should only need the new seal....not a complete kit (around $300 U.S.).

Hub B · Post by **Hub B** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:31 pm

dear members,
I'd like to reactivate this old running topic, rope seal versus lip seal.
Sometimes you have no choice...

When I bought my S1 last november, the car restoration was stopped for many years and the engine never ran.
I was told that the engine had been fully rebuilt, of course.

Last month I pulled out the engine to verify the statements, and discovered that it was quite original, but not restored.
the block has the original size bore, pistons and rings, and the head is not skimmed.
Which is good news, meaning that the 60K (kmh) on the speedometer are probably true.
However the engine needs a full rebuilt, valve guides and seats to be replaced, block to be rebored +20 and new pistons fitted.
Though the crankshaft is in perfect condition, with original size bearings.
Apparently the crank has been hardened and new shells fitted, standard size.
Maybe a big end went...
The bad (?) news is that the rear scrolled journal is machined to 75mm to accomodate the famous lip seal.
The original rope seal housing has the groove machined to 8mm.
The split seal is 95x75x8mm, it is cut in one place.
Then I got a new seal kit from SNG just to verify.
It is quite similar to the existing, except for the housing wich has a wider groove, the lip seal being 95x75x10mm.

I have formerly rebuilt the engine of my MK2, fitting the rope seal with the proper tool.
The rope seal is gently weeping, a little drop at a time... as a reminder from our beloved cars.

Now it's time to experience the lip seal attitude...
I am a bit nervous about it, but I've read that some members had a happy result.
It must be done right for good...
then your views and tips are welcome !
thanks
H

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The 'E' Type Forum

Rear oil seal oil leak

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