Rory,
I will check and see if my plug is leaking. I presume I will need some kind of mirror.
Thanks for the advice
Oily E-Type
#22
In the motorcycle world we use brake-cleaner / acetone to degrease, then athlete's foot powder spray ........... which will show up the origin of any leak. Happy hunting !
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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Moeregaard
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:23 pm
- Location: Thousand Oaks, California

#23
As long as we're on the subject of garage-floor lubrication, one thing worth having a look at when the cylinder head is removed, is the condition of the camshaft oil-feed threads. Those bolts have been removed and replaced several times over the last 40-plus years, and I learned this the hard way when I reinstalled the freshly overhauled head on my '65 FHC--only to have the alloy threads strip while hand-tightening one of the banjo bolts. Having to pull the head just to install two Helicoil inserts did not make me terribly happy that day!
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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christopher storey
- Posts: 5698
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
- Location: cheshire , england

#24
Mark - a bit late to tell you, but there is no need to helicoil these. The thread goes much deeper than the bolt, and the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club sell extra long bolts to use the deeper part of the thread even if the outer part is stripped
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Moeregaard
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:23 pm
- Location: Thousand Oaks, California

#25
Many thanks for the information regarding the longer bolts, Christopher. My data comes from notes I took back in 1991, when the longer items were not available. Still, it's worth having a look at the threads back there while the head is sitting on the workbench.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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Robert Hiland
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Nov 28, 2013 12:03 pm
- Location: Manotick Ontario Canada

#26 A possible solution to oil leaks .... and it is cheap!
Try keeping the oil level in the sump at the mid-point of the cross hatch marks.
I found that my leaks were reduced by 75%.
If it doesn't leak, it can't be a Jag
Bob
1967 E Type 2+2
I found that my leaks were reduced by 75%.
If it doesn't leak, it can't be a Jag
Bob
1967 E Type 2+2
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Moeregaard
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:23 pm
- Location: Thousand Oaks, California

#27
You can also swap your California-compliant breather assembly with one from an early 3.8-litre car. The Jaguar six has marginal crankcase ventilation at best, and the reduced size of the later breather only compounds the problem by increasing pressure in the crankcase. I did this with my '65 FHC, and after its final engine rebuild in 1991 I had no more oil leaks.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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Peter Harrison
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:33 am
- Location: Farnham

#28
Hi All, I have had leaks from the rear of my engine and wanted a simple solution. Here is an oil catch-tank system that avoids oil on the drive AND the fumes caused by oil burning on the exhaust. I know from the forum that others have had success with similar designs. PeterH


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