This sounds simple but I'm struggling to remove the water connection from my inlet manifold on my series 1 4.2.
I am rebuilding the carbs and this is part of the tidying up process. The problem is made worse by the fact that I haven't got a deep socket to fit, can anyone let me know the size needed. ( May have to go to nearest metric equiv).
I'm really concerned about this shearing off, as per Chris Rooke, so will be taking it easy.
Thanks for any guidance offered
Tim
How to remove water connection from inlet manifold
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christopher storey
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#2
Tim : Happy new year - I'm afraid I had the same problem , and gave up ! I came to the conclusion that leaving the old fitting in place was the lesser of two evils. If your fitting is beyond redemption, however, so that you have no option, then I think the best option is probably to grind out the internal bore of the fitting as far as you can with a dremel or similar, until it is so thin that the thread collapses and you can pick out the remains. Alternatively, you could take the whole thing along to the specialists who have spark erosion equipment
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#3
It's the plug-spanner size on mine, 13/16" so closest is 21mm. I'm assuming the water rail is off the car in which case I'd cut the nose off and go for a ring spanner so I had the torque applied as close to the plane of the resistance, and make up a jig from a length of angle iron to bolt the mounting faces of the rail to for vice-holding purposes. I generally find that being approached with a purpose-made tool frightens the offending body so much that it relinquishes its grip more easily.
Take it you have tried the thermal shock treatment, blow-lamp followed by cold water ? Hot oil for better penetration etc ? Never had a problem on this element on my car but had similar experiences in corroded m'cycle parts - the greater coefficient of expansion of the alloy is at least in your favour.
Take it you have tried the thermal shock treatment, blow-lamp followed by cold water ? Hot oil for better penetration etc ? Never had a problem on this element on my car but had similar experiences in corroded m'cycle parts - the greater coefficient of expansion of the alloy is at least in your favour.
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#4
Thanks guys, you are both correct !
I used a plug socket (with the rubber insert removed) and placed significant pressure on this to the point where I thought " this is enough". Gave up and am having a rethink.
The part is still functional - just looks a bit rough and rusty.
May we'll do as Chris says leave as is.
Tim
I used a plug socket (with the rubber insert removed) and placed significant pressure on this to the point where I thought " this is enough". Gave up and am having a rethink.
The part is still functional - just looks a bit rough and rusty.
May we'll do as Chris says leave as is.
Tim
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christopher storey
- Posts: 5698
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- Location: cheshire , england

#5
Rory : there isn't a water rail on a 4.2 ( other than one which goes straight into the back of the water pump ) - the fitting for the heater connection screws straight into the back of the inlet manifold which has integral water passages , and dissimilar metal corrosion seals its fate !
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