New rear floors - too authentic!

[vrracing]

I'm replacing the rear floors (starting with left side) and bought one from one of the usuals. It came with the seat rails, seat belt mount, jack point and suspension plate pre-spot welded to the floor pan. It was coated in e-coat the started to ooze when the can of stripper was opened. 8)

I already had new suspension plates and to ensure the suspension was correctly aligned I'm installing the plates using the holes in the existing floor and then positioning the floor relative to the plates. So I had to remove the ones they put on. Tedious but no big deal.

It turns out they are too authentic, just like Jaguar would have made with no rust protection at all between the ancilliaries and the sheet metal.

What do yall recommend for getting in between the spot-welded metal parts? I am going to spray them with epoxy primer before installation (and then again after for a full cover coat) but unless i flood the seams it doesnt seem like there would be enough capillary action to pull the primer into all the rust spawn points.

Thanks!

Jim

[D COUPE]

When I removed the front frames from the bulkhead there was zero paint or even primer. I painted under the joint and check them every year for tightness.

Epoxy primer mixed correctly and brushed on or around the seam SHOULD seal the seam to water ingress. This will be better than new so should last 30/40 years

DC

[vrracing]

Thanks, DC. That's along the lines of what I was thinking. The seat rails and the rest are all narrow enough that capillary action should get decent coverage. The suspension mounting plate surely wouldn't have, especially with the raised areas in the middle.