Headlight bowls fitment
#1 Headlight bowls fitment
I am sorry to keep posting but aim really rushing to get 860897 finished and out this early summer. I have a new Heritage bonnet new headlight bowls etc but I cannot see how the bowls fit in the headlight. My old bonnet was so rusty I did not preserver with stripping as all these items were scrap and now it's gone to make washing machines. Basically none of the holes in my new Robey supplied bowls appear to line up with the 2 holes in the new bonnet. I am aware that I should have flat backed bowls but how are these fitted to the bonnet? Nuts and bolts or something else ? I have the rubber gaskets that go between the bowl,and the bonnet . Not keen to start drilling either bonnet or bowls until I know how this all fits together. Strange to have just two holes in the bonnet though! Anyway if any kind soul can talk me through it I can knock off another job. Almost running out of jobs to do so that good huh?
I can post some photos of the bonnet holes if required
I can post some photos of the bonnet holes if required
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#2
There are three outer holes for the sugar scoop, two for the adjusting screws (in a gasket at 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock in the picture) and four asymmetric tapped blind holes for the headlamp bowl.
Make sure your headlamp bowl (if a repro) has two adjusting screws not three as one vendor was supplying for a while
Make sure your headlamp bowl (if a repro) has two adjusting screws not three as one vendor was supplying for a while
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#3
Andrew
Sorry i cannot talk this through for you although I did carry out this operation last summer and in a hurry to finish the job in time for Goodwood.
I bought the new flat back shells and rubber gaskets and basically the fitment of the bowls did not fit the location holes and this is maybe all you need to know!
By using my old shells and copying them I had to further drill the new shells and move the threaded section (adjustment tubes) to suit - with new items this is not really on.
I managed to make it happen but not the ideal way to go on a new restoration project.
Sorry i cannot talk this through for you although I did carry out this operation last summer and in a hurry to finish the job in time for Goodwood.
I bought the new flat back shells and rubber gaskets and basically the fitment of the bowls did not fit the location holes and this is maybe all you need to know!
By using my old shells and copying them I had to further drill the new shells and move the threaded section (adjustment tubes) to suit - with new items this is not really on.
I managed to make it happen but not the ideal way to go on a new restoration project.
Chassis no: 860403
DOM - 11th April 1962
DOM - 11th April 1962
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#4
This is why I love this forum. Fantastic feedback in such a short time. Thanks Guys. I reckon my bowls are going to need drilling. I am tempted to go and take. Look now but having sat down with a glass of red I think it's best left fora new day. Will report back . I cannot actually recall seeing the tapped blind holes but I am sure they are there. Until tomorrow them. Got an event I want to go to with the old girl in mid June so fingers crossed. Thx a lot
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#5
Bowls should not need drilling unless they are wrong. I had a pair from SNGB which had no possibility of fitting. I took it up with them and the acknowledged the problem and were sorting out a fix - this was last December. I had to buy a pair from Holden which were perfect. http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct. ... e=54520553
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#6
Right. That's good information. I'll check the robey units tomorrow. Interestingly Barratts are out of stock right now. Thx David
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#7
Well thanks guys. All seems to be ok with the bowls and fixings. I have got one in and have been trial fitting the sugar scoops and headlight glasses. I am told new glasses are ?120 each so don't want to drop one. The headlight glass rubbers I was supplied are very wide and thick and when the chrome trim is on top of them I feel sure they will squidge out. They are much thicker and wider than my original rubbers. Are there several types of rubber seal anyone know? Maybe I have the wrong type.
Not sure how I am going to find fitting the scoops. That seems a job for a midget with ten hands . Fun fun fun
Not sure how I am going to find fitting the scoops. That seems a job for a midget with ten hands . Fun fun fun
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#8
Scoops aren't too difficult if you do it the correct way i.e.. fit the bolts to the captive nuts on the scoops and offer the assembly up to the bulkhead. The bolts go through and the nuts are put on from the wheel well.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#9
Right. Is that a non original fix? Other wise one would imagine they would have studs on the scoops rather than captives. Also note that one captive, the lower one is the other side of the return flange for some reason. Hope it's not ANOTHER friday afternoon assembly jobbie
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#10
This is my original rim rubber. As you can see it is much narrower than the newly supplied rubber. Perhaps it may be that the new rubber stop the chrome rim contacting the paintwork as they are the width of the embellisher rather than this which just fits in the groove in the trim
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#11
A "non-original fix"andrewh wrote:Right. Is that a non original fix? Other wise one would imagine they would have studs on the scoops rather than captives. Also note that one captive, the lower one is the other side of the return flange for some reason. Hope it's not ANOTHER friday afternoon assembly jobbie
http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... c&start=40 and scroll down.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#12
Very interesting indeed. Another strange fact huh? Looking at the factory original thread it's clear you are quite correct from the ODB FHC . That will make it considerably easier. As to why the lower captive is the other side of the flange.....can only be as you suggest to provide a cant for drainage. Brilliant intel David. Many thanks.
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#13
Priceless information - when I removed my sugar scoops last summer they were fitted with 'bolts' 5 only of the correct size however why the one missing bolt soon became evident as it had a snapped thread still held in the captive nut.
Therefore it was likely that the thread/nut assemblies were too corroded and not surprising given their factory design. I managed to remove the offending broken thread and fitted a further bolt.
Have to say the bolt is the better design to protect the threads from corrosion but as the photos show not at all correct!
What a learning process...
Therefore it was likely that the thread/nut assemblies were too corroded and not surprising given their factory design. I managed to remove the offending broken thread and fitted a further bolt.
Have to say the bolt is the better design to protect the threads from corrosion but as the photos show not at all correct!
What a learning process...
Chassis no: 860403
DOM - 11th April 1962
DOM - 11th April 1962
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#14 Re: Headlight bowls fitment
Could I please restart this thread ?
I need some help: I have a set of original bowls, and I need to know which screws / bolts to buy to fit
- the bowls to the diaphragma panel
- the headlights to the bowls.
I‘ll lay up what I have on the floor and take some pictures, maybe someone could then help me poor soul with „what goes where“, because it came in boxes and loose and I am back-converting from S 1.5 to S 1.
Carsten
I need some help: I have a set of original bowls, and I need to know which screws / bolts to buy to fit
- the bowls to the diaphragma panel
- the headlights to the bowls.
I‘ll lay up what I have on the floor and take some pictures, maybe someone could then help me poor soul with „what goes where“, because it came in boxes and loose and I am back-converting from S 1.5 to S 1.
Carsten
Jag E '66 S1 2+2, 74’Citroen DS 23 Pallas iE, 73’ Citroen SM 3.0, 75’ Concept Centaur MK1, 54’ Citroen 11 BL, 71‘ Velosolex, 88‘ Unimog U1650
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#15 Re: Headlight bowls fitment
Bumping this.
I cannot find the crrect bolts for the bowl to the bonnet on the parts diagrams.
They are not on the headlight assembly drawing or on the bonnet drawing.
Anyone know where to find or what the sizes for the bolts are?
I cannot find the crrect bolts for the bowl to the bonnet on the parts diagrams.
They are not on the headlight assembly drawing or on the bonnet drawing.
Anyone know where to find or what the sizes for the bolts are?
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#16 Re: Headlight bowls fitment
I had the same problem. I literally scratched 8 of them out of every edge of the shed.
Carsten
Carsten
Jag E '66 S1 2+2, 74’Citroen DS 23 Pallas iE, 73’ Citroen SM 3.0, 75’ Concept Centaur MK1, 54’ Citroen 11 BL, 71‘ Velosolex, 88‘ Unimog U1650
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#17 Re: Headlight bowls fitment
Item 10 here? https://www.angloparts.com/en/catalogue ... mp-fitting#_
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#18 Re: Headlight bowls fitment
The screws are 10-32 unf I think.....same size as the ones that hold the fuel sender to the tank....
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
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#19 Re: Headlight bowls fitment
i think they are 10-32 but I am not convinced that is the size of the fuel tank sender. I bought some in stainless from Namrick or off the internet with some SS washer. Hex head
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#20 Re: Headlight bowls fitment
Thanks. Will just buy some of ebay. length 1/2"?
Now I need to find out the same for the washer bottle bracket. They are nla and on my car p.o had used self tapping screws above the original holes.
Now I need to find out the same for the washer bottle bracket. They are nla and on my car p.o had used self tapping screws above the original holes.
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