Some advice please! The doors on my car fit well at present - however I want to replace all the seals, including those on the A post, so they have to come off. What I would like to know is how can I get them back on exactly as existing without spending days playing around with the hinges etc. I have looked at both of the 'Door Fitting Guides' on the Forum but they relate to fitting new doors from scratch rather than replacing the existing ones. It has been suggested that I drill a hole through both of the hinges so that when it comes to re-hanging them, two self tappers can be inserted and - hey presto - they will go back in the same position. Does this work?
I have also thought about spraying the hinges with a contrasting colour so that, in theory, I can 'colour match' when re-installing but then I'd be faced with having to remove paint which might have dried on by the time that the doors go back on. Any thoughts/suggestions please - thank you.
Removing and replacing doors
#1 Removing and replacing doors
Malc
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
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#2
Malc,
Having recently taken off and refitted my doors more times than I care to remember as part of the restoration all I can advise is what worked for me. This I hasten to add is only my experience and not necessarily the "right way". In terms of minimising potential paint damage I found removing the door complete with hinge easier. There are two self tapping screws in the hinge to door fixing area (with the door card removed) that I presume the factory used to line the doors up. However after fitting new skins, these no longer lined up so I drilled two 1/8" holes that I could put a couple of drill bits through to line up the hinge to door mounting. Remember none of this is seen once the door card is back on. Once this was satisfactory I always took the door off complete with hinge from the A post. To re align the hinge on the a post, I stuck duck tape around the hinge much in the same way as you suggested spraying to leave an outline. That way I could always get the hinge back to its original position give or take a mm.
WARNING. The clearance of the centre of the leading edge of the door to the A post when opening is very tight so open the door very slowly checking all the time. I can now do this single handed, but would strongly advise getting another pair of hands. I hope this makes some sort of sense and to comply with all current risk assessment criteria, this is only what worked for me!
All the best,
Simon
Having recently taken off and refitted my doors more times than I care to remember as part of the restoration all I can advise is what worked for me. This I hasten to add is only my experience and not necessarily the "right way". In terms of minimising potential paint damage I found removing the door complete with hinge easier. There are two self tapping screws in the hinge to door fixing area (with the door card removed) that I presume the factory used to line the doors up. However after fitting new skins, these no longer lined up so I drilled two 1/8" holes that I could put a couple of drill bits through to line up the hinge to door mounting. Remember none of this is seen once the door card is back on. Once this was satisfactory I always took the door off complete with hinge from the A post. To re align the hinge on the a post, I stuck duck tape around the hinge much in the same way as you suggested spraying to leave an outline. That way I could always get the hinge back to its original position give or take a mm.
WARNING. The clearance of the centre of the leading edge of the door to the A post when opening is very tight so open the door very slowly checking all the time. I can now do this single handed, but would strongly advise getting another pair of hands. I hope this makes some sort of sense and to comply with all current risk assessment criteria, this is only what worked for me!
All the best,
Simon
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#3
To remove doors (which are confirmed as fitting properly) I use the following method:
1. Pull back the hardura trim from the A pillar.
2. Mark out the perimeter of the hinge base on the face of the B pillar using short lengths of masking tape to act as a witness marker. Take time to position the masking tape around the outer edge of the hinge base plate as accurately as you can since this will position the hinge when re-installlng the door.
3. Apply a couple of layers of masking tape to the from edge of the door and outer edge of the A pillar.
4. with the aid of an assistant supporting the door, remove the four bolts and the door sould come away from the body quite easily.
Re-fitting is the reverse of the above and will require two people to avoid damage to paint. If the masking tape has been applied accurately, the hinge should go back exactly where it was previously and your door should fit fine.
Chris
1. Pull back the hardura trim from the A pillar.
2. Mark out the perimeter of the hinge base on the face of the B pillar using short lengths of masking tape to act as a witness marker. Take time to position the masking tape around the outer edge of the hinge base plate as accurately as you can since this will position the hinge when re-installlng the door.
3. Apply a couple of layers of masking tape to the from edge of the door and outer edge of the A pillar.
4. with the aid of an assistant supporting the door, remove the four bolts and the door sould come away from the body quite easily.
Re-fitting is the reverse of the above and will require two people to avoid damage to paint. If the masking tape has been applied accurately, the hinge should go back exactly where it was previously and your door should fit fine.
Chris
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norman m. macleod
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 11:34 am
- Location: Perth, Western Australia
#4 Removing and replacing doors
Hi Malc,
Like you, spending innumerable hours re-setting door positions during the restoration became a real pain. My solution, after getting all the alignment and gaps correct, was to drill 2 X 5/16'' diameter holes through the front part of the hinge, and though into the "A"-post plate, one high on the assembly, and one lower down. Leaving the hinge to door side fully tightened, I the removed the door complete with hinge attached. I then made up 4 short dowels from stainless rod of the same diameter,(2 each side), and rounded a tad on one end. With an assistant, then re-offering the door up into position, at a later date, one simply taps in the dowels to get a 100% repeatable positioning, insert screws, tighten up, and then remove dowels.
Like Simon, I'm not putting this forward as the "correct" way, indeed to some it may seem a bit drastic, but it really works well, and ensures repeat accuracy. It would no doubt offend some of the rivet counters, as it leaves 2 holes in each plate. I put a couple of small blanking rubber grommets in the holes.....(!!)
Best regards,
Norman.
Like you, spending innumerable hours re-setting door positions during the restoration became a real pain. My solution, after getting all the alignment and gaps correct, was to drill 2 X 5/16'' diameter holes through the front part of the hinge, and though into the "A"-post plate, one high on the assembly, and one lower down. Leaving the hinge to door side fully tightened, I the removed the door complete with hinge attached. I then made up 4 short dowels from stainless rod of the same diameter,(2 each side), and rounded a tad on one end. With an assistant, then re-offering the door up into position, at a later date, one simply taps in the dowels to get a 100% repeatable positioning, insert screws, tighten up, and then remove dowels.
Like Simon, I'm not putting this forward as the "correct" way, indeed to some it may seem a bit drastic, but it really works well, and ensures repeat accuracy. It would no doubt offend some of the rivet counters, as it leaves 2 holes in each plate. I put a couple of small blanking rubber grommets in the holes.....(!!)
Best regards,
Norman.
1967 S1 2+2
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#5
Thank you all for your suggestions - with the drilling of the hinges/dowels and the masking/duck tape, I reckon I will have it under control! Look out for a post in about three months time asking for further advice if it doesn't work!
Malc
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
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