Water pump repair
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christopher storey
Topic author - Posts: 5698
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
- Location: cheshire , england

#1 Water pump repair
Has anyone here actually done this ? And if so, how difficult was it to replace bearings and seals ? My Rover TC pump has started to leak and as new ones cost something like ?135 incl post etc I'm interested in alternatives !
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#3
Hi Chris
It's a straight forward job. The pulley is removed with a regular pulley remover, however the impeller is not. Use of a puller on the cast iron impeller will probably break it (did for me!) - you first remove the front pulley then press downwards on the shaft where it goes through the impeller with the body of the pump supported around the front surface that surrounds the bearing. The impeller and bearing move through the body until the impeller front face touches the body, where it stops. Increased pressure will then push the shaft though the impeller and the bearing through the pump body at the same time. (hard to explain).The bearing is part of the shaft and comes through with it. Make sure to remove the locking bolt from the body first of course.
There are at least two sizes of bearings - the shaft size is the difference as I recall (last did this 10 years ago) so be aware of this when you order the new bearing kit. I'd remove the old bearing first and measure it before ordering. The kits I've seen come with new impellers - but I'd use the old one mostly because the new ones I've seen seem not to be exact replicas.
The manual has instructions for doing this - clearances etc.
Terry Sturgeon
It's a straight forward job. The pulley is removed with a regular pulley remover, however the impeller is not. Use of a puller on the cast iron impeller will probably break it (did for me!) - you first remove the front pulley then press downwards on the shaft where it goes through the impeller with the body of the pump supported around the front surface that surrounds the bearing. The impeller and bearing move through the body until the impeller front face touches the body, where it stops. Increased pressure will then push the shaft though the impeller and the bearing through the pump body at the same time. (hard to explain).The bearing is part of the shaft and comes through with it. Make sure to remove the locking bolt from the body first of course.
There are at least two sizes of bearings - the shaft size is the difference as I recall (last did this 10 years ago) so be aware of this when you order the new bearing kit. I'd remove the old bearing first and measure it before ordering. The kits I've seen come with new impellers - but I'd use the old one mostly because the new ones I've seen seem not to be exact replicas.
The manual has instructions for doing this - clearances etc.
Terry Sturgeon
1967 E Type coupe
1968 E Type OTS
2007 XKR
1968 E Type OTS
2007 XKR
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#4
Sorry Chris
Only after posting this did I see you were talking about a Rover pump. Never done one of those!
Only after posting this did I see you were talking about a Rover pump. Never done one of those!
1967 E Type coupe
1968 E Type OTS
2007 XKR
1968 E Type OTS
2007 XKR
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#5
My Impeller was so rotten I had to dump it anyway, so I cut it in halves and out it Went....
Carsten
Carsten
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christopher storey
Topic author - Posts: 5698
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
- Location: cheshire , england

#6
Thanks to both of you. The Rover pump is slightly more complicated, but the principle of dismantling is the same. In the end, however, I found a new old stock and warranted pump for ?60 delivered, so I bought that
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