passenger door opens from inside not from outside

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:10 am

Hello

my passenger door (RH door) opens from inside but not from outside, although pushbutton goes to fully pressed position, any idea why ?

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:28 pm

Yes. The push button lock is governed by a disc on the back of the lock which swivels with either the key or the inner handle in the appropriate direction. There is a curious spring loaded link which connects the inner linkage to the lock. If that has come adrift,or out of adjustment , the disc for the button often stays in the locked position. Having said this, that system is on FHC and OTS. I am not sure whether the 2+2 with its separate lock ( ie not in the button ) is different

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:40 pm

thanks Christopher !

my 2+2 is an S2, and does'nt have separate lock, it's included in the "pushbutton", so what you mention is very likely

I suppose I need to remove the door card to access the lock ?
any pics ?

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 8:13 pm

do I understand correctly that part named "J" could be the culprit ?

chrisvine · Post by **chrisvine** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 8:51 pm

Do you have the door card off?

If the link you mention isn't connected, it should be fairly obvious. One of the retaining clips might have come free.

Otherwise, when the key is turned to unlock, pressing the push button causes the plunger at the rear (T/Q) to make contact with Release lever R.

If the plunger doesn't come out of the lock, then the problem will lie inside the door lock mechanism. The profile of the plunger has to align exactly with a similar shaped hole in the washer/ connector (attached to the link J) in order for it to pass through and therefore hit the release lever.

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:04 am

thanks Chrisvine

I don't have the door card off yet; I will post pics then

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sun Mar 01, 2015 10:45 am

Yes, the link is J . Chris Vine , if I understand the problem correctly , it is not with the key, which in my experience will nearly always work, but with the button itself when the key is removed . If the disc is not aligned properly, the button just pushes in as though it were locked, without operating the plunger . This is usually the result of J being loose, disconnected, bent , or not the correct length. etc . As I remember it, the length of the link can be adjusted where it has slots for the springs to engage, but without one to hand, i cannot remember exactly how it is done

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Sun Mar 01, 2015 5:50 pm

thanks Christopher
what you describe is exactly the diagnostics on mine; I'll try to remobve the card next week-end as I've been busy today remounting the power steering on my XJ6 1970, occupying the space on my lift

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:15 am

took off the passenger door card yesterday only to realize:
. everything seems fine
...the keylock was on "locked" position ! so pretty normal it doesn't open from outside
... I haven't got the right key to open it !
....I haven't got it either for the driver's door lock !
...I. o have the glovebox key though

how can I be so stupid; I'll ask the seller if he hasn't found one left in his drawer but I fear the answer will be"no"
I saw it is possible to find on the barrel a number that I could use to order a key ?
can I remove the handle + barrel just removing the 2 nuts inside the door ?
I managed to took a pic here

chrisvine · Post by **chrisvine** » Mon Jun 29, 2015 9:20 am

Yes - the three digit key number is stamped on the lock barrel. Therefore you will need to remove the door handles as you describe but it will require the handle to be dismantled to obtain the number.

There's normally a few vendors on eBay offering keys once you have the correct number.

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Mon Jun 29, 2015 1:43 pm

it's great you answered Chris and at the very minute where I was looking at your fabulous site ! (with good pics, better than mine)

Do you mean the handle can be detached from the door just unscrewing the 2 nuts inside ?
or do I also have to detach the lever/mechanism, etc which frightens me a little bit as access is very restricted with the window glass on

chrisvine · Post by **chrisvine** » Mon Jun 29, 2015 2:56 pm

As well as the two nuts, you will need to detach the link J in your diagram by removing the clip. It might be easier to detach the link at point K where it is clipped to the door lock operating arm and withdraw handle and link together. Has the end of your link been bent slightly at the end where it attaches to the handle? Mine were straight although I don't think it would cause a problem. There should be a spring washer between the link and the lock's operating lever so try not to lose that.

It's a bit of a pain to find the 3 digit key number as you have to dismantle the whole of the handle's locking mechanism but nothing too difficult. Once the rear housing is removed along with a spring and washers, the push button can be pressed out of the handle. It is then a case of removing the second spring and finally a split-pin in the chrome button, which holds the lock barrel in position. Hopefully your locks are matching and you'll only need to dismantle one lock! Rebuilding with grease can cause problems as it can clog up and eventually dry out. A better alternative is to get hold of some graphite lock fluid (eg Lock Ease)

Good luck,
Chris

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Mon Jun 29, 2015 7:35 pm

thanks Chris !
yes the end of the spring link is bent on mine, it's slightly visible on the pic
I discovered in the manual (pNYs3) that theoretically on series 2 it was a nut and not a clip retaining the striker but a nut (Q on sketch below)
on my car I still see a clip, though
And I'm afraid if I remove K instead of T, it won't come out by the hole in the door
therefore if I remove the clip and unscrew the 2 nuts , the handle should come off ....nicely so they say

chrisvine · Post by **chrisvine** » Mon Jun 29, 2015 8:52 pm

There should be just enough room to withdraw the handle and link together. The link is fixed by a clip at both ends and isn't connected to the striker Q and lock nut T. The striker Q is really just a small machine screw which screws into a 'plunger' within the locking mechanism. This screw is wound in or out to set the correct gap to the lock mechanism's striker plate (R), and the lock nut nipped up to hold in position. The picture below shows the outer parts of the handle lock mechanism:

The striker and lock nut are at the far right, the end cover (which the plunger passes through) is to its left. The link is connected to the part to the left of the cover.

Try detaching the link at the bottom end, below the spring in the photo below:

Once it's off the car it will become more obvious.

Chris

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:32 am

thanks a lot for your valuable advice Chris, I'll work this out tonight or tomorrow and post pics of results and congrats for your wonderful site ! it's a regular reference for me

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 7:08 pm

thanks to your help, in particular Chris's, it's been child play to remove the handle and the lock but now I'm a bit stuck as I do not see any barrel number, and I do not know how to remove the barrel itself with the wafers
is it necessary to remove the last spring ?

Post by **1954Etype** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 8:16 pm

If you clean the loxk part of the assembly (chrome barrel with spring) you will see a brass rod that passes through the barrel. Tap it through and you will be able to remove the lock. The number is stamped on that.

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 5:06 am

thanks !
will dip the lock in cleaning petrol until tonight

chrisvine · Post by **chrisvine** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:37 am

Here's a couple of photos I took when stripping my lock - with location of brass pin Angus mentions and the lock number:

rolando38 · Post by **rolando38** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 9:26 am

fantastic !
just what I needed

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