Koolmat experiences

JagWaugh · Post by **JagWaugh** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 7:45 am

David,

I don't want to nit pick, but pondliners don't normally have seat mountings, wiring looms, or handbrakes running through them. :-)

25 years??? at the rate I am currently moving on my Saloon resto I would only just be getting around to getting the car saftied by then.

Andrew

golfnut324 · Post by **golfnut324** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 2:10 pm

I'm having trouble getting comfortable with sticking something like Zircoflex or Cool-It in the tunnel. I will have a fully restored and clean shell back home soon so installation will be relatively easy but I really don't want to have to deal with it coming loose later on. Some of these products can be ordered with self adhesive but the reviews aren't all positive.

What's the surest way of sticking it?

Post by **Heuer** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 3:06 pm

High temperature contact adhesive e.g.:

I used this for the Kool-mat as well.

golfnut324 · Post by **golfnut324** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 7:27 pm

Heuer wrote:High temperature contact adhesive:

I used this for the Kool-mat as well.

Excellent! Thank you.

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:53 pm

golfnut324 wrote:I'm having trouble getting comfortable with sticking something like Zircoflex or Cool-It in the tunnel. I will have a fully restored and clean shell back home soon so installation will be relatively easy but I really don't want to have to deal with it coming loose later on. Some of these products can be ordered with self adhesive but the reviews aren't all positive.

What's the surest way of sticking it?

Are you speaking of placing it on the inside or the outside of the tunnel?

golfnut324 · Post by **golfnut324** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 1:09 pm

64etype wrote: Are you speaking of placing it on the inside or the outside of the tunnel?

I was referring to the gearbox side of the tunnel. Is that outside or inside

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:31 pm

golfnut324 wrote:
64etype wrote: Are you speaking of placing it on the inside or the outside of the tunnel?
I was referring to the gearbox side of the tunnel. Is that outside or inside

There are some purpose designed products manufactured specifically for the engine/gearbox side of the tunnel, and they are virtually identical to what modern OEMs (VW and Chysler, for example) bond to the engine/trans side of the fire wall. I tried to remove some of it during a junk yard crawl and it's stuck for good. DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield II is one example. The adhesive is tighter than the bark on a tree when applied to a clean smooth surface. I would not try to glue something like Koolmat to the gearbox side of the sheet metal. Neither would I bother gluing something like Koolmat to the interior surface for that matter...probably use Velcro in a few strategic spots, but otherwise I'd let it "float". If you PM me an e-mail address, I'll send you some photos of a DEI Tunnel Shield installation.

Post by **Heuer** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 5:26 pm

That goes against everything Kool-mat recommend and would render it useless. It's heat and sound proofing requires an intimate and firm bond to the floor with no gaps. Dynamat is the same. Kool-mat is for car interior use so it would be unsuitable for going between gearbox and tunnel. There are several foil based products available for that - Demon Tweaks sell a few. Don't forget to put some 2" foam between the gearbox and body - cheap and easy way of reducing noise and heat. Upholstery foam is ideal because it is flame retardant.

mark10337 · Post by **mark10337** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 5:56 pm

How much foam / Dynamat is needed between the gearbox and the body? 2 inches thick but how large? Does anyone have any pics of an install to give an idea how far down/around it needs to go?

Post by **Heuer** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:33 pm

Just buy a large piece,of foam and cut it to fit around the gearbox. Then offer up the engine/gearbox to the body. 2' x 3' would be more than enough.

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Mon Aug 17, 2015 10:32 pm

Heuer wrote:That goes against everything Kool-mat recommend and would render it useless. It's heat and sound proofing requires an intimate and firm bond to the floor with no gaps. Dynamat is the same. Kool-mat is for car interior use so it would be unsuitable for going between gearbox and tunnel. There are several foil based products available for that - Demon Tweaks sell a few. Don't forget to put some 2" foam between the gearbox and body - cheap and easy way of reducing noise and heat. Upholstery foam is ideal because it is flame retardant.

Yeah, Koolmat make a claim about noise reduction, but they're not forthcoming with detailed comparative data. Without specific comparative data, I discounted their claim and used products designed for that task. Even jute reduces sound (and also stinks when it's wet).

Had I used an interior heat barrier, it would have been over purpose- designed sound deadener like Dynamat. I don't know of anyone putting Kool mat and the like in doors for sound suppression purposes. The heat barrier function shouldn't make any difference glued or not...it's a barrier that doesn't rely on contact. Glue the seams and get a snug fit around the perimeter. Like an earlier poster, I have a concern with gluing that stuff without getting voids in places. It's just too stiff.

paydase · Post by **paydase** » Fri Dec 25, 2015 6:29 pm

I am not sure I have well understood how to correctly glue Koolmat on irregularly shaped panels.

e.g. on the pic below, it can be seen that there will be a number of issues to glue Koolmat on the bottom of the shallower grooves of the rear floor as well as above the steel plate and screws for the attachment of the rear radius arm, the seat belt and the seat runners.

So my questions are:
- first, once the floor has been correctly sanded/repainted do you first need to seal all of the of the floor holes with patches of Koolmat?
- then do you need to force Koolmat on the bottom of grooves and above the protruding steel plate and screws of the radius arm as far as possible? same idssue with the dished front footwells...
- finally, do you punch Koolmat to be able to bolt on the seat runners and seat belt with screws through it?

Maxa · Post by **Maxa** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:32 pm

I have a 69 series 2 2+2 and wish to fit Koolmat however their advert specifically says their kit is not for the 2+2.
Anyone done this? How much will I be missing?
Michael.

Post by **mgcjag** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:42 pm

Hi Michael.....have a look at this post viewtopic.php?t=7269&highlight=koolmat you can buy inbulk and cut to your size....

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