Ongoing running problems

Technical advice Q&A

Topic author
andy8688
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 5:56 pm
Location: Solihull

#1 Ongoing running problems

Post by andy8688 » Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:52 pm

Thanks to everyone replying to previous topics.
The problem I have with my car is after a few miles it develops a judder like running out of fuel, then engine backfires, Im talking pedestrians taking cover, then engine stops.
If I leave the car for about one hour it starts fine it will go for about 3 miles, I have checked everything people have suggested, the latest one was the earth wire connected in the distributor, it turned out not to be that. I have had it tuned middle carb piston is a little sticky but assured would be OK.

Any more suggestions, my engine and carbs were all rufurbed 3 years ago.

Andy

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Car-Nut

#2

Post by Car-Nut » Mon Jul 20, 2009 7:31 pm

Hi andy,

you need the Haynes manual.... My new bedtime book :lol:

incorrectly gapped plugs
faulty coil
mixture to weak

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


1954Etype
Moderator
Posts: 2738
Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2008 12:32 pm
Contact:
Great Britain

#3 Re: Ongoing running problems

Post by 1954Etype » Mon Jul 20, 2009 8:01 pm

andy8688 wrote:Thanks to everyone replying to previous topics.
The problem I have with my car is after a few miles it develops a judder like running out of fuel, then engine backfires, Im talking pedestrians taking cover, then engine stops.
If I leave the car for about one hour it starts fine it will go for about 3 miles, I have checked everything people have suggested, the latest one was the earth wire connected in the distributor, it turned out not to be that. I have had it tuned middle carb piston is a little sticky but assured would be OK.

Any more suggestions, my engine and carbs were all rufurbed 3 years ago.

Andy
Andy,

run it with the fuel filler cap off - they are vented and if blocked can cause problems (not the misfire though!). Worth a go. Try replacing the condensor.

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


p1vickers

#4

Post by p1vickers » Tue Jul 21, 2009 4:28 pm

Andy

Have you replaced the condensor in the distributor? Is the coil new? is the fuel pump delivering fuel when the engine stops?

Regards

Pete
1967 2+2

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

Heuer
Administrator
Posts: 15160
Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:29 pm
Location: Nottinghamshire
Great Britain

#5

Post by Heuer » Tue Jul 21, 2009 5:08 pm

Andy

It might be worth giving a summary of what you have done so far.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX

Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Topic author
andy8688
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 5:56 pm
Location: Solihull

#6

Post by andy8688 » Tue Jul 21, 2009 6:58 pm

I have checked all filters, replaced plugs, leads, dizzy cap, points, condensor, coil and checked timing, I have had the carbs tuned and balanced, apart from the middle piston sticking slightly.
I was talking to someone today who owns a series 1, and he had a similar problem it turned out to be a faulty coil, so I have ordered another, will let you know how I get on.

Andy

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

Bill Molloy
Posts: 45
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:24 pm
Location: Southport, Merseyside, UK
Contact:

#7

Post by Bill Molloy » Tue Jul 21, 2009 7:48 pm

I had something like that many years ago on a Ford Capri - it turnd out to be the condensor. Also had something like that on a much older car even earlier in my motoring youth and changing the coil and condensor cured it
1971 S2 OTS, 1954 Sunbeam Alpine, Honda CBR600

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


christopher storey
Posts: 5698
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
Location: cheshire , england
Great Britain

#8

Post by christopher storey » Tue Jul 21, 2009 8:58 pm

It also sounds typical of rotor arm failure, where when hot the arm shorts out, and once it has all cooled down, the earthing pathway closes off . This is a result of poor material in pattern as opposed to genuine Lucas rotos

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Topic author
andy8688
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 5:56 pm
Location: Solihull

#9

Post by andy8688 » Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:30 pm

Thank you to all your all of your replys, the problem turned out to be a very old and tired wire which connects to the negative of the coil, and down to the connector on the plastic bit which fits between the dizzy and the cap part number RTC175.

What a transformation, so simple, but taken a long time to solve.

Andy

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Car-Nut

#10

Post by Car-Nut » Sun Jul 26, 2009 8:26 pm

andy8688 wrote:Thank you to all your all of your replys, the problem turned out to be a very old and tired wire which connects to the negative of the coil, and down to the connector on the plastic bit which fits between the dizzy and the cap part number RTC175.

What a transformation, so simple, but taken a long time to solve.

Andy
Glad you sorted it Andy. :)

Its little things that can really bug you though...

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic