How often should the cars be driven?

Technical advice Q&A

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pmansson
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#1 How often should the cars be driven?

Post by pmansson » Thu Dec 03, 2015 10:47 pm

We all know that the more often, the better, and that
winter storage for a couple of months is sometimes
necessary, but not very good for all moving parts in the
car.
But how often is ideal? At least once a months, but better
with shorter intervals.
And these drives must be at least 20 mins, so that the
engines and all oils really heat up. The worst are quick
starts and then turn off after a min or so.

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PeterCrespin
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#2

Post by PeterCrespin » Thu Dec 03, 2015 11:57 pm

The XK engine does not fully warm up in 20 mins during cold weather IMO, depending on type of running (although the coolant will).
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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abowie
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#3

Post by abowie » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:44 am

Every day, and thrashed like you stole it!

I pulled onto the freeway on ramp at about 5000 rpm in second this afternoon. God it sounded good!
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia

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Gfhug
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#4

Post by Gfhug » Fri Dec 04, 2015 8:40 am

One of the worst things people do with any engine is run it for a few minutes on tick over and think that will do it some good. People are reluctant to take old cars out in the winter but feel they have to run the engine.
Quite simply: they shouldn't..
A better solution for keeping the engine in good order over winter is to fit dessicant plugs instead of the spark plugs. Keeps the cylinders dry.

The alternate is to emigrate to Oz and chase Andrew down the highways and byways :wink:
S2 FHC Light Blue
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abowie
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#5

Post by abowie » Fri Dec 04, 2015 9:07 am

Gfhug wrote: The alternate is to emigrate to Oz and chase Andrew down the highways and byways :wink:
:D :) :( :o :lol: 8) :? :shock: :x :evil: :twisted: :roll:
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia

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cactusman
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#6 How often should it be run

Post by cactusman » Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:13 pm

Well took mine out for a spin after six weeks. 40 minutes of bliss. Roads dry. No salt. Not much traffic. Saw 70 ish😉 on the speedo. Car did not miss a beat. Now all tuckd up again in the garage. Do I feel happy...YES!
So if it is dry take your E's for a spin. Does them good and will do you good too😁😁😁😁.

Agree though that a five minutes idle on the drive is a waste of time. Car needs to thoroughly warm up and the transmission etc needs exercise too.
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too

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Simon P
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#7

Post by Simon P » Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:12 pm

Went for a very pleasant little run in mine yesterday. Most enjoyable. Was comprehensively shown up though by the bloke I saw in the Ferrari 250 GT Lusso using his to pick up a few bits an pieces from the local DIY shop...

:shock:
1969 S2 FHC - 1R20258
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Alty Ian
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#8

Post by Alty Ian » Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:32 pm

We went out in ours today for another shakedown run, it was sunny, dry roads, no rain forecast as we have no hood cover yet.

It rained :roll: :oops:

At least we tested the wipers but got quite wet!
64 S1 4.2 OTS 1E10012 73 S3 2+2 manual 2013 V6 F type OTS

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Tony
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#9

Post by Tony » Sun Dec 20, 2015 11:45 pm

Ian,

Just think of it as giving the car a final wash before hibernation. When is the next JEC meeting ?

Tony
Tony (E typed)

1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)

Tony

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#10

Post by Vegard » Mon Dec 21, 2015 9:09 am

Simon P wrote:Went for a very pleasant little run in mine yesterday. Most enjoyable. Was comprehensively shown up though by the bloke I saw in the Ferrari 250 GT Lusso using his to pick up a few bits an pieces from the local DIY shop...

:shock:
8)
68 1.5 FHC, 65 4.2 FHC, 72 MGB GT, 6 Minis, 71 Escort1300GT, 65 BMW Neue Klasse, 62 Volvo P1800 and a 205 GTI

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Alty Ian
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#11

Post by Alty Ian » Mon Dec 21, 2015 12:32 pm

Tony wrote:Ian,

Just think of it as giving the car a final wash before hibernation. When is the next JEC meeting ?

Tony
Hi Tony

First thursday in Feb, 4th I think and the AGM when the 2016 show itinerary is handed out so you can choose which ones you want to attend.

Merry Xmas Ian
64 S1 4.2 OTS 1E10012 73 S3 2+2 manual 2013 V6 F type OTS

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chrisfell
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#12

Post by chrisfell » Mon Dec 21, 2015 1:56 pm

Simon P wrote:Went for a very pleasant little run in mine yesterday. Most enjoyable. Was comprehensively shown up though by the bloke I saw in the Ferrari 250 GT Lusso using his to pick up a few bits an pieces from the local DIY shop...
Common as muck these 250 GT Lussos. This one was at the garden centre.

Image
Chris '67 S1 2+2

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Simon P
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#13

Post by Simon P » Mon Dec 21, 2015 3:18 pm

Excellent! :D And that one's on a different plate so it's not the one I saw.

I also like the inclusion of the 'spare' E-type lurking in the background: almost qualifies for one of David's 'Where's Wally' competitions :D
1969 S2 FHC - 1R20258
1993 Lancia Delta HF integrale Evo II
2008 Caterham Seven Roadsport

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rossbraithwaite
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#14

Post by rossbraithwaite » Fri Jan 08, 2016 1:21 pm

I understand and agree that driving the car is better than idling the engine but how can the idling of the engine be detrimental to its condition? I am concerned about damp and humidity in my garage and am keen to do everything I can to improve storage conditions for the car.
'67 S1.5 FHC, manual, maroon with black interior. Originally exported to Arizona but 'repatriated' in '89. Since converted to RHD and triple SUs.

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Gfhug
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#15

Post by Gfhug » Fri Jan 08, 2016 1:51 pm

Ross, my understanding is that idling doesn't get the engine up to proper operating temperature and I believe tends to produce acids or the like which actually do harm to the engine. They are only cleared when the engine and exhaust are at full temperature.

The best way to look after the engine is either to take it for a long enough run to get up to normal running temperatures, or do as I suggested and fit desiccant plugs. eg:

They do a fine job of keeping the cylinders dry.

Edited to add: Here's some advice about aero-engines which equally applies to car engines:
Get the engine oil to normal operating temperature.
Part of the point of the ground run is to drive off water that has condensed in your oil -- oil is good for metal parts, and water is bad for them.
If you don't get the engine oil up to normal middle-of-the-green-arc temperatures and keep it there for a good while (20-30 minutes at least) you may not be driving out the water, which can lead to a very unhappy engine.
If you don't get the oil up to operating temperature long enough you may wind up doing more harm than good! Combustion blow-by leaking around the piston rings contains water (and a bunch of other corrosive things your engine doesn't like), and really short ground runs that don't bring the engine to temperature are mainly just causing wear from the startup and dumping these nasty things into your oil. Your engine is not going to like that.

Substitute idling the car in the garage for ground runs.
Hope this helps explain.

Another edit: you could always try using this preservation oil: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive ... r=Classics

For the inside of the car there are small dehumidifiers that should help there, though I have no experience of their use.

Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration

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