I am rewiring my 71 E type 4.2 and need help with ignition wiring. I have two browns and one white (all on same harness) entering the driver side foot weld through the firewall. (lefthand drive) One white, one brown, and one white with yellow tracer also to install on the switch. My car has steering lock and I think that is what's confusing me. I have tried more than one combination but still no power. My switch is numbered 1, single pole, two, double pole, three, double pole and 5, double pole. Can anyone help with the correct connections. Thanks
marv
Series II ignition wiring
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Gfhug
- Posts: 3815
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:08 pm
- Location: Near Andover, Hampshire,in D.O. Blighty
#2
Marv, have you seen this wiring diagram?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/849 ... Colour.jpg
One of the contacts is for ancilliaries, so normally doesn't have anything connected, except a radio.
Geoff
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/849 ... Colour.jpg
One of the contacts is for ancilliaries, so normally doesn't have anything connected, except a radio.
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#3
Geoff,
Yes, I have the same diagram, I just have more wires to connect than the diagram indicates.
Yes, I have the same diagram, I just have more wires to connect than the diagram indicates.
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Gfhug
- Posts: 3815
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:08 pm
- Location: Near Andover, Hampshire,in D.O. Blighty
#4
Look at the ballast ignition part top right, you'll see the white/yellow and the two browns
Geoff
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#5
Marv,
My switch was similarly marked, with a terminal 5 but it's fairly easy to work out the correct wiring for the switch using a multi-meter in continuity mode (well worth the investment if you don't have one).
The switch has three positionS although, on UK cars, I think only positions II and III are actually used. If you turn the key to position I and use the multi-meter to determine which two terminals are connected. The two brown wires will both be connected to one of these two terminals. Stating the obvious, but if either one of these terminals is the single spade connector, then connect the brown wires to the other! Essentially it doesn't matter which terminal is used.
When turn the switch to position II, using the multi-meter to determine which other terminal has now been connected to the first two from the step above. The white wire is connected to this terminal.
The remaining terminal is for the White/Yellow wire to the starter solenoid/ignition relay. Again if you wanted to double check, this terminal is only connected to the others when the key is held (against the sprung action of the lock) in position III.
So the key operation would be -
Position I : no action
Position II: Brown wires connected to White wire, providing to White feeds (so the fuel pump should kick in) and green fused supplies (so dash gauges should start working)
Position III: White/Yellow wire receives power to control the starter motor until the key is released.
Update:
I forgot to mention, for the wires coming in from the engine bay through the bulkhead. The White wire is likely to connect from the alternator to the fuse box. The only other white wire I can remember from the engine bay is from the rev counter to the ballast resistor (or coil).
The two brown wires are likely to be from the battery to fuse box and battery to ignition switch. Again the multi-meter would help identify start and end points for these wires.
Chris
My switch was similarly marked, with a terminal 5 but it's fairly easy to work out the correct wiring for the switch using a multi-meter in continuity mode (well worth the investment if you don't have one).
The switch has three positionS although, on UK cars, I think only positions II and III are actually used. If you turn the key to position I and use the multi-meter to determine which two terminals are connected. The two brown wires will both be connected to one of these two terminals. Stating the obvious, but if either one of these terminals is the single spade connector, then connect the brown wires to the other! Essentially it doesn't matter which terminal is used.
When turn the switch to position II, using the multi-meter to determine which other terminal has now been connected to the first two from the step above. The white wire is connected to this terminal.
The remaining terminal is for the White/Yellow wire to the starter solenoid/ignition relay. Again if you wanted to double check, this terminal is only connected to the others when the key is held (against the sprung action of the lock) in position III.
So the key operation would be -
Position I : no action
Position II: Brown wires connected to White wire, providing to White feeds (so the fuel pump should kick in) and green fused supplies (so dash gauges should start working)
Position III: White/Yellow wire receives power to control the starter motor until the key is released.
Update:
I forgot to mention, for the wires coming in from the engine bay through the bulkhead. The White wire is likely to connect from the alternator to the fuse box. The only other white wire I can remember from the engine bay is from the rev counter to the ballast resistor (or coil).
The two brown wires are likely to be from the battery to fuse box and battery to ignition switch. Again the multi-meter would help identify start and end points for these wires.
Chris
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#6
Chris,
your info has been very helpful. I am checking on it. Also, If you are able, can you tell me where the green wires from the dash loom terminate under the steering wheel (lefthand drive) connect to which wires on the engine loom and or side wires going to the tail lights. I did not take enough pics before removing the old harnesses. Big mistake on my part. If you cannot do this, I completely understand and am grateful for your input given. thanks
Chris
your info has been very helpful. I am checking on it. Also, If you are able, can you tell me where the green wires from the dash loom terminate under the steering wheel (lefthand drive) connect to which wires on the engine loom and or side wires going to the tail lights. I did not take enough pics before removing the old harnesses. Big mistake on my part. If you cannot do this, I completely understand and am grateful for your input given. thanks
Chris
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#7
Having only wired a RHD car, I can only comment in general regarding the green wires. Others with LH cars might be able to give more accurate advice.
How many green wires are unaccounted for under the steering wheel? And do you have the Coventry Auto Components wiring diagram?
I found this really helpful as it breaks down the overall wiring diagram in sub-sections, eg lighting, ignition etc. It enabled me to label the ends of each wire for all the looms before they were fitted to the car and made connecting everything up relatively simply.
From memory, there weren't any green feeds connected to the LH and RH body looms. The majority of green wires under the steering wheel area were terminated with an obvious connector (eg rev counter, fuel warning light and the flasher unit).
One that wasn't was a green wire terminated with a bullet connector for the choke warning light switch. I had to buy a 'sundries' wiring pack which supplements the main wiring harnesses. This pack included extensions from the main looms to items such as the radiator fans and choke switch.
There are a few green wires passing into the engine bay (brake light switch, reverse switch on gearbox, horn relay and radiator fan relay). Some of these might first connect to a common bullet connector rather than directly to the fuse box.
Although not a wiring issue as such but just so you're aware; the engine bay, alternator and LH body loom are held in place by a vinyl-covered metal conduit running under the LH underside of the dash.
Chris
How many green wires are unaccounted for under the steering wheel? And do you have the Coventry Auto Components wiring diagram?
I found this really helpful as it breaks down the overall wiring diagram in sub-sections, eg lighting, ignition etc. It enabled me to label the ends of each wire for all the looms before they were fitted to the car and made connecting everything up relatively simply.
From memory, there weren't any green feeds connected to the LH and RH body looms. The majority of green wires under the steering wheel area were terminated with an obvious connector (eg rev counter, fuel warning light and the flasher unit).
One that wasn't was a green wire terminated with a bullet connector for the choke warning light switch. I had to buy a 'sundries' wiring pack which supplements the main wiring harnesses. This pack included extensions from the main looms to items such as the radiator fans and choke switch.
There are a few green wires passing into the engine bay (brake light switch, reverse switch on gearbox, horn relay and radiator fan relay). Some of these might first connect to a common bullet connector rather than directly to the fuse box.
Although not a wiring issue as such but just so you're aware; the engine bay, alternator and LH body loom are held in place by a vinyl-covered metal conduit running under the LH underside of the dash.
Chris
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