Alternator with integrated regulator

[JD-JAG66]

Thanks to Heuer's feedback I started eliminating wires, and was confident (okay, hopefull) that I did not do any damage to the loom....yet.
From other posts, it seems like you can eliminate relays and regulator 6RA, 3AW and 4TR from the loom if you have a alternator with build in regulator.
I want to loose any unnecessary wiring on my car, so my idea is to start eliminating the 6RA relay (close to the battery) and all the 4 wires leading to it.
FYI, the cloth cover of my wiring loom is gone in several places so "cutting out" any unnecessary wiring will be a doddle.
So, can somebody please tell me if this is a good idea? From what I can see I should not create any problems on the wiring by doing so. But I can imagine that I am overlooking something...
What about the 3AW and 4 TR voltage regulator? Better to leave these with their wiring?
Cheers!

[christopher storey]

My opinion is that cutting out wires from the loom is not a good idea , for these reasons

1.It is irreversible

2.It is likely to be unsightly

3.Each individual wire needs to have its end sealed off

4.If any of the wires remain live, there is a potential for short circuits

A far better idea in my view is to fold back the redundant wires with their connectors and plastic covers intact and tape them up

[Heuer]

Agree with Christopher, do not cut anything away. You can leave the 4TR connected but bypassed; you can do something similar with the 3AW.

[chrisfell]

My opinion is that cutting out wires from the loom is not a good idea , for these reasons

1.It is irreversible

2.It is likely to be unsightly

3.Each individual wire needs to have its end sealed off

4.If any of the wires remain live, there is a potential for short circuits

A far better idea in my view is to fold back the redundant wires with their connectors and plastic covers intact and tape them up

That'll be why the now defunct business which once claimed to be the world's largest retailer of E-Types did this to my car!

[JD-JAG66]

Ok, point taken. Am not touching any wires. Just a bit of taping up to keep appearences tidy. Cheers everyone!
Jan

[JD-JAG66]

I have just installed an XJ6 alternator on my car, the same as in the first picture in this thread.
I have already "eliminated" the NG-Brown/Green wire from the regulator unit to the alternator.
There is of course also a NP-Brown/Purple wire going from the alternator to the ignition switch. If I understand the instructions in this link "http://www.coolcatcorp.com/faqs/LucasBosch.html" I can simply leave this NP wire disconnected (properly taped up of course).
Correct?
Question 2
There are 2 wires arriving at the ignition warning light on my car. 1 White and 1 BlackBrown.
From my understanding I have to connect the small spade terminal on the alternator with the NY-Brown/Yellow wire to the NB-Brown/Black wire, bypassing the 3AW ignition light unit. If this is correct, where can I find this 3AW ignition light unit on my series 1 2+2?
Cheers!

[Durango2k]

Look just to the right of the battery. There's a tin box mounted with three wires (E, AL, WL). This the 3 AW unit.

On the ignition light, the white wire goes to the centre tip of the bulb holder. This is a 12 V supply. Turn key and it should have 12 V.

The other cable goes to the 3 AW it were it connects to the WL spade (Warning Light).

The 3 AW unit is fed by about 8 V AC directly from the alternator, at the AL spade, and heats a strange thermo element inside the 3AW unit. If hot enough (= enough current from the alternator is coming), then it disrupts the Earth connection to the bulb (WL to E). This means the light goes off (gets no earth anymore).

If you want to check the 3 AW unit, it's very few Ohms between E and WL when cold, and about 16-20 Ohms between AL and E (the heating element's resistance).

Now, I asked myself, why did they do it this way ? Very simple: it's more expensive to convert AC from one part of the alternator then using a thermo element....


Carsten, S1 2+2

[JD-JAG66]

Thanks Carsten,
As it turns out, my car (1966) is not "late" enough to have the 3AW unit. Which is probably why I could not find it in the first place.
Will therefore connect the black brown directly to the small spade on the alternator.
Danke schon.
Jan