Dear E Type restoration experts,
after a very long break of the restoration, I am continuing the restoration of my E 2+2. I am now focusing on the interior and would appreciate to get your support, instructions and recommendations how to best install the rear wheel arches incl. the sheet metal at the B post, i.e. what is the best process, where to start (in the middle or at the front, at the top or at the bottom, etc.)
Many thanks
Mark
Interior
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E Typ Driver
Topic author - Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2011 11:56 am

#2 Re: Interior
Hi Mark..re trimming my S2 2+2.... Not very easy to describe how to do it but if you pm I can try to help......just looking at this again and your location shows up now im using the tablet and not tne phone....so chatting on the phone may not be on as your in Germany.......first, did you strip out the old trim and keep it......have you purchased a trim kit with the wheelarch trim vinyl stitched to the backing foam and piping......your sheet metal inner arch that fits to the B post does it have its thick foam padding.....your starting point is to draw a line on the bodywork that the piping will follow.....then use the old trim to see how it was fitted
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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E Typ Driver
Topic author - Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2011 11:56 am

#3 Re: Interior
Steve, all
Many thanks for your response.
I purchased a new interior from Aldrigde for the rear wheel arches incl. backing foam, piping. The sheet metal inner wheel arch is original, but re-painted and still fits very nicely. I removed the original foam padding from the original interior trim which I very carefully removed and could use to test the previous fit.
My key questions are:
- After checking the position of the old trim, where do you recommend to start with gluing the trim to the body? My suggested approach: I would start in the upper middle and glue the upper part up to the piping to the body along the entire length and wait until the adhesive is dried. Then pull the lower part tight and glue it to the body…. Is that procedure doable?
- In the original situation, the trim was folded around the front edge of the sheet metal. How do you best do that? My suggested approach: I would first fix the sheet metal with the rivets at the rear end, then put the trim over the sheet metal, fold the trim around the front edge and then use screws (upper front edge) and fixing clip (lower front end as in the original version) to finally fix the front edge to the body…. Is that procedure doable?
- Sequence of installing the rear wheel arches vs. sill covers: What should be done first? The sill covers or the rear wheel arches?
Many thanks for your support
Best regards
Mark
Many thanks for your response.
I purchased a new interior from Aldrigde for the rear wheel arches incl. backing foam, piping. The sheet metal inner wheel arch is original, but re-painted and still fits very nicely. I removed the original foam padding from the original interior trim which I very carefully removed and could use to test the previous fit.
My key questions are:
- After checking the position of the old trim, where do you recommend to start with gluing the trim to the body? My suggested approach: I would start in the upper middle and glue the upper part up to the piping to the body along the entire length and wait until the adhesive is dried. Then pull the lower part tight and glue it to the body…. Is that procedure doable?
- In the original situation, the trim was folded around the front edge of the sheet metal. How do you best do that? My suggested approach: I would first fix the sheet metal with the rivets at the rear end, then put the trim over the sheet metal, fold the trim around the front edge and then use screws (upper front edge) and fixing clip (lower front end as in the original version) to finally fix the front edge to the body…. Is that procedure doable?
- Sequence of installing the rear wheel arches vs. sill covers: What should be done first? The sill covers or the rear wheel arches?
Many thanks for your support
Best regards
Mark
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#4 Re: Interior
Hi Mark,
Chirs Vine did a really good write up (with images) of the interior installation on his S2 OTS. Whilst obviously a different model to yours some of the installation principles/techniques he uses apply to all cars.
http://etype.chrisvine.com/?s=interior&searchsubmit=
John Carey also did a video guide for the interior installation on his S1 FHC, see his youtube channel below
https://www.youtube.com/user/JohnCarey1963Jag/videos
HTH,
Neil
Chirs Vine did a really good write up (with images) of the interior installation on his S2 OTS. Whilst obviously a different model to yours some of the installation principles/techniques he uses apply to all cars.
http://etype.chrisvine.com/?s=interior&searchsubmit=
John Carey also did a video guide for the interior installation on his S1 FHC, see his youtube channel below
https://www.youtube.com/user/JohnCarey1963Jag/videos
HTH,
Neil
Neil
1962 S1 OTS
1967 S1 FHC
1962 S1 OTS
1967 S1 FHC
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#5 Re: Interior
Hi Mark....my trim also came from Aldridge.....so i have a good understanding of what you have........do not be tempted to glue the Vinyl to the foam backing.(if you do then when you press it the foam does not rebound) try with a spare piece.....only glue the foam to the bodywork...trim back the foam, then glue the edges of the vinyl to the body......I trial fitted the sheet metal....with it in place offer up the vinyl cover and mark on the whole length of where the piping will go......I then on the workbench fitted the thick foam to the sheet metal and laid on the new Vinyl trin, lining up the piping to the line i drew on it......then cut the front edge of the vinyl and foam and turned it under and glued to the sheet metal..as your original..getting the piping looking good around this is not easy so take your time..make sure you pre fit the clip for the bottom corner......you now have the full trim with the sheet metal glued to the front edge ....... you can now put this in place and if all looks ok screw/rivet the sheet metal in place, and pop in the cornrt trim clip.
Now spread out the whole length of trim following the pipeing line you drew...i held it in place with magnets on the top holding the foam to body.....trim the top edge of the foam to fit....then with spray adhesive glue the top edge of the foam to the body starting from the front.....trim back the top vlnyl so you have an upstand and glue just the upstand to the body......
Trim the bottom foam to ft and spray glue down........trim the bottom vinyl..so it turns out at the bottom and glue to the body...dont streach too much....
You must trim the sills first.....cut foam to fit with a 10mm gap all round....glue down the foam, but only glue the vinyl to the 10mm gap area for a neat vilyl edge at A & B post cut vinyl 20mm longer and turn under the edge 10mm each side......
Hope this helps....ps.....the glue in the tins does get very stringy.........i found that using some of the aerosol can and spray small amounts into a cup and use a brush was good, its nice and runny for a while
Now spread out the whole length of trim following the pipeing line you drew...i held it in place with magnets on the top holding the foam to body.....trim the top edge of the foam to fit....then with spray adhesive glue the top edge of the foam to the body starting from the front.....trim back the top vlnyl so you have an upstand and glue just the upstand to the body......
Trim the bottom foam to ft and spray glue down........trim the bottom vinyl..so it turns out at the bottom and glue to the body...dont streach too much....
You must trim the sills first.....cut foam to fit with a 10mm gap all round....glue down the foam, but only glue the vinyl to the 10mm gap area for a neat vilyl edge at A & B post cut vinyl 20mm longer and turn under the edge 10mm each side......
Hope this helps....ps.....the glue in the tins does get very stringy.........i found that using some of the aerosol can and spray small amounts into a cup and use a brush was good, its nice and runny for a while
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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E Typ Driver
Topic author - Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2011 11:56 am

#6 Re: Interior
Dear all,
many thanks for the links - I have already screened them and others, unfortunately most of them are not very helpful or not very illustrative.
Many thanks for the description of your procedure for installing the rear wheel arches - it sounds to be quite an effort... but the explanation is really helpful.
I will keep you posted on any progress, but it will take some time, as my professional workload is growing again.
best regards
Mark
many thanks for the links - I have already screened them and others, unfortunately most of them are not very helpful or not very illustrative.
Many thanks for the description of your procedure for installing the rear wheel arches - it sounds to be quite an effort... but the explanation is really helpful.
I will keep you posted on any progress, but it will take some time, as my professional workload is growing again.
best regards
Mark
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#7 Re: Interior
Hi Mark.....if you think that sounds dificult wait till you try the cant rails
theres a lot of trim in a 2+2 its not an easy job very time consuming...ive been on mine for weeks now...good luck
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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