Crown Wheel & Pinion 3.07

[nefematic]

OK so maybe I goofed again? I've been sold a set "Jaguar E-Type Differential 3,07 Pinion & Crown Wheel NOS". Well, after unpacking I'm not sure that's what I received. Stamped on the wheel is Spicer, the pinion seems unstamped. Tooth count is correct 43/14. The spline count is 26. I doubt this is original stuff. Are originals stamped and what would be stamped?

I've been searching for original cwp 3.07, but is this stuff original Jaguar? Do you think it will fit my 3.54 PL S2 OTS diff? I'm aware Dana 44 parts would fit with the square flange, but thats not really what I was after.

Thanks.

Martin

[johnney]

The pinion should be stamped on its ground face with pinion offset and cone setting distance for that particular crown wheel and pinion assuming it's a matched set. The crown wheel in addition to the stamped information shown in your picture, should have the relevant backlash hand written with an etching pen on the outer circumference. The latter two settings cone setting distance and backlash can be still be set correctly with the help of some engineers blue, it just takes more time.

[christopher storey]

That is a genuine Dana gearset. Spicer is the ultimate owner of Dana, which is why it has Spicer on the rim. You need to look for the other markings as Johnney suggests

[nefematic]

Johnney and Christopher,

thanks. I had a closer look, the pinion has 3586 etched, the wheel has 3586 stamped.
I missed those marks first time around. Johnney, would the stamped 2 27 90PC be the data I'm looking for.









So other than the pictured, and a single "G" on the side of the wheel, I find no markings.

Would the stamped 3586 on both parts mean its a paired set and good to use?
They seem aged and have shelf patina, but seem unused. Should I worry about using a squared flange connector instead of my round original?

Thank you for your help.

[johnney]

3586 stamped on the crown wheel and etched on the pinion probably means they are a matched set. The cone setting distance should also be etched on the pinion ground face and is nominally 0 but usually deviates either side of zero such as + 3 or -3 for example. the other stamped numbers you refer to are not pinion settings or crown wheel backlash settings. I'm not sure what you refer to regarding " Should I worry about using a squared flange connector instead of my round original?" I would strip your differential and compare the old pinion and crown wheel with your new parts, if they look the same you should be ok but without the pinion and backlash data it's going to be a time consuming job to adjust them correctly.

[64etype]

If I remember correctly, the original Jaguar/Salisbury pinion had a 10 spline shaft. If this one has a 26 spline shaft it's in all probability a Dana 44. A proper round prop shaft flange with 26 splines is available from several sources....IWE in Victoria, B.C., for one. Also, if it is indeed a Dana 44, the mounting bolt holes in the crown wheel will be of slightly larger diameter than used on the original Jaguar unit. I and some others used shoulder sleeves to take up the difference. There are also some minor bearing and seal differences to mate the pinion to the case. The Dana 44 3.07 gear set change is common in the U.S., particularly among the hot rod crowd who use the Jaguar rear suspension. It is discussed in the following Jag Lovers thread (among several others). Note that I provided a link to the "dazecars" web site in that thread, which provides excellent detail, including bearing and seal part numbers to interface the Dana gears with the Jaguar case...not a big deal.

http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1755218p31

[nefematic]

Thanks gentlemen. I've not decided yet, most likely I'll go with the set and get a round input flange with 26 splined. Of course just recently put the IRS back in, so it might be a while before I change the set. Eric the link was very helpful.

Martin

[nefematic]

Johnney,

after more cleaning the etched data is now apparent on the pinion ground face. It shows up a lot better on the picture than in real life:



I'm going to be using this set, and source the right bearing/seals.

Shamefully late I refered to the SM Page H.21, which explains the details.

Thanks again folks.