Post
by rfs1957 » Tue May 30, 2017 9:13 am
Splitters like the wedge-type can and will damage the rest because they're nothing more than slow-motion cold chisels that are attempting to force their way into a marginal gap ; one of edges of the interface has to give, and it's not going to be the hardened steel bearing core.
They are designed to get behind the outer race of ball-races, which by definition have a bit of slop, and also have radiused corners to aid fitting - and removal, hence the tools in question.
The Timken-type core has neither of these.
This type of removal is a very common problem on the lower headstock taper-roller bearing core on motorcycles, which remain stuck on the lower-yoke stem with no asperity or edge to get hold of.
Our standard industry method is to get a MIG welder, obviously protecting neighbouring surfaces from any spatter, and weld two bits of something - anything - on, diametrically opposed, that will enable you to get a good tug underneath some sort of edges with a puller.
A suitably-sized old ball-bearing outer or inner from your Magic Box (I never throw bearings away for precisely this reason, and just punch out the cages) can make a good martyr for this.
That grip, plus the thermal shock and expansion, will make most - all ? - bearings a doddle to remove.
With the stem being so long, and pullers that deep being thin on the ground, on bikes it is often sufficient to just whack a good blob of MIG on the back edge, and then immediately use a cold chisel, even at quite an oblique angle, whereupon the race will pop off.
This "dead-simple-lazy- botch" might well work on the Jag bearing, at least sufficiently to be able to get the legs of the puller into place, or - why not - a bearing splitter which is fine once the gap has opened somewhat.
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
