Setting studs into manifolds

[TrevS]

Hi all

After my recent issue with removing some very stubborn (4 hours with a dremel and cutting disk) sealing rings from my exhaust I am finally ready to fit the new manifolds. I've been trying to set the studs into the manifold using the double nut technique. This has worked on some studs but not all as the standard nuts are quite thick and so it's hard to get two nuts onto a single stud without stripping the threads on the end nut when tightening.

Does anyone have any tools or techniques to fitting these? Also what is nut size as standard supplied by SNG Barratt as I was wondering if I could find some shorter nuts to give me room to get two properly onto the studs to double nut tighten.

Any help is much appreciated as usual. Here is how a couple of the more stubborn studs currently look, you can see they aren't fully located



Thanks

Trev

[abowie]

The nuts are 3/8 UNF. Steel ones are shorter than the brass ones. That might help.
You could use a set of locking pliers.
I have a set of stud extractors like these:

[mgcjag]

Hi Trevor....did you clean out the thread in the manifold and use a bit of copper grease to assist the studs going in....also you can get 1/2 thicknes nuts.....just dont use too much force to get them in or you may crack the manifold are the studs in far enough to fit the downpipes useing a washer or 2 under the nut.. Steve

[JagWaugh]

It takes a bit of time, but I run a thread chasing tap/die on every single thread, even on new parts/fasteners (except for nyloc and metalock).

This means a couple of things:
1) you know when both items are the same thread.
2) fitting the fasteners is a doddle

[Hugo]

You might be able to get a pair of Mole grips (vice grips) in there, or one of those clever little wrenches that grip smooth things like this. If you don't have a 3/8" UNF tap I might be tempted to grind a chamfer on the end of the studs - and always use copper grease - don't fill the hole with it or it may hydraulic & stop the stud going right home. The advantage of copper grease, apart from the fact that it makes things easier to assemble, is that if the nuts seize on the studs, at least you should be able to get the studs out of the manifold if you need to drop the down pipes again. You could always saw a nut in half to make your own half-nut.

[Heuer]

A set of stud extractors/inserters make the job simple and safe against cracking the cast iron. Machine Mart sell them or, if you have Amazon Prime, you can get them delivered by tomorrow:

[chrisfell]

Am I the only one who prepares stud holes and other threaded orifices by running a well lubricated tap in and out before assembly? I think it is far better than forcing a reluncant stud into what is obviously a contaminated thread. Graunching a thread on the way in may make it secure, but it will be a bugger on the way out, should than need arise.

[richard btype]

Chris

After destroying a perfectly good stud forcing a reluctant bolt into a partially powder coated thread! I'm now a fully paid up member of the 'well oiled tap' club!

[Hugo]

At least it only cost you a stud - a cheap lesson!

[JagWaugh]

Chris

After destroying a perfectly good stud forcing a reluctant bolt into a partially powder coated thread! I'm now a fully paid up member of the 'well oiled tap' club!

I always put a fastener in every single hole when I send stuff off for blasting and powdercoating.

Always.

Since the first time I had stuff powdercoated... without putting fasteners in all the threaded holes.

If you get it just right you'll have just the domed end of the fastener peeking out of the threaded hole, and removing them is easy. If you keep the fasteners for the next round, don't use the ones with a long uncoated section in short holes (otherwise you end up having to chase the "plugs").