Lower steering column removal
#1 Lower steering column removal
In order to fit a new side frame I'm in the throes of removing the steering column on my Series 1 3.8, but I don't have the correct size allen key to remove the allen-headed bolt connecting the lower end of the column to the steering pinion shaft (part number C17469).
Would anyone happen to know the correct size allen key so I can order one?
cheers
Ray
Would anyone happen to know the correct size allen key so I can order one?
cheers
Ray
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#2
Ray
As far as I know Jaguar did not use Allen bolts. I seem to recall it is a UNF nut and bolt on my car.
As far as I know Jaguar did not use Allen bolts. I seem to recall it is a UNF nut and bolt on my car.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
christopher storey
- Posts: 5698
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
- Location: cheshire , england

#3
My FHC, which certainly has the same allen screw arrangement as yours , is away, so I cannot check, but from memory it is 3/16 inch. The easy thing to do is to buy a set of keys, which cost buttons from the likes of Machine Mart eg a 25 piece imperial/metric set Part Number 040212820 cost 5.16 in the winter 2009/10 catalogue
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#4 steering column
Hi, I,m confident its a 3/16 allen key. Still a bit of a s*d to remove though !
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#5
Yup - 3/16" Allen bolt on my car. I was thinking of the hex nut at the other end 
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#7
yep 3/16. However I cant actually undo mine. Its totally seized and 3 weeks of rust penetration fluid has absolutely nothing... ended up taking rack off and removing the connection into the rack instead.
Id anyone has a suggestion for freeing up this little rascal, I would be jolly grateful
Cheers
CC
Id anyone has a suggestion for freeing up this little rascal, I would be jolly grateful
Cheers
CC
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#8
If you can apply some local heat around the head, that should help.ChrisC wrote:yep 3/16. However I cant actually undo mine. Its totally seized and 3 weeks of rust penetration fluid has absolutely nothing... ended up taking rack off and removing the connection into the rack instead.
Id anyone has a suggestion for freeing up this little rascal, I would be jolly grateful
Cheers
CC
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
christopher storey
- Posts: 5698
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:07 pm
- Location: cheshire , england

#9
ChrisC : I am afraid this is a hazard. I had this problem and had to take the column out . I applied heat but in the end had to drill out the old allen screw and fit a new one after cleaning the internal thread with a tap
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#10
I had the same problem removing mine; I managed to rounder off the Allen bolt key part.
In the end I too had to remove the pinion from the rack and put the whole thing in a vise.
I tried cutting a slot in the bolt to enable the use of a hefty impact screwdriver, but this didn?t work. In the end I used a small chisel on the edge of the bolt, which eventually forced it to turn.
Paul
In the end I too had to remove the pinion from the rack and put the whole thing in a vise.
I tried cutting a slot in the bolt to enable the use of a hefty impact screwdriver, but this didn?t work. In the end I used a small chisel on the edge of the bolt, which eventually forced it to turn.
Paul
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#11
Oh dear sounds to me like this is is a very common theme. I am trying to avoid drilling the bolt out because I rarely have luck wit not damaging the thread. I have even broken those bolt removal tools that you reverse drill in. Now they are seriously hard to drill out again. Perhaps I should drop the column into a jaguar specialist and have them remove it.
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#12
Hi Chris,
Using a cold chisel works if the yoke is held firmly in the vice to prevent even the smallest movement; one that?s not to sharp as otherwise it will cut the edge off the bolt rather than turning it.
The easy-outs are very hard to drill out using a conventional drill, but a Carbide End Mill in a pillar drill will cut through it like butter.
You might be better off taking it to a machine shop rather than a Jaguar specialist; a Jag specialist will not necessarily have the engineering know how to do any more than you can do yourself.
Paul
Using a cold chisel works if the yoke is held firmly in the vice to prevent even the smallest movement; one that?s not to sharp as otherwise it will cut the edge off the bolt rather than turning it.
The easy-outs are very hard to drill out using a conventional drill, but a Carbide End Mill in a pillar drill will cut through it like butter.
You might be better off taking it to a machine shop rather than a Jaguar specialist; a Jag specialist will not necessarily have the engineering know how to do any more than you can do yourself.
Paul
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#13
Thanks for all the warnings - exactly the sort of thing I thought would happen to me so I took the rack off, leaving the pinion in the lower UJ. I thought that I'd probably only have one try at this before rounding the bolt off so I mounted the column in the vice, applied heat to the screw and with my newly-acquired hex socket mounted in the my ratchet (decided that this was better than risking an allen key), I tentatively applied pressure........what turned?
Well it was the screw! Whoopee do! Turned out to be a doddle but I guess that was lady luck being on my side for a change.
Now how do I stuff Waxoyl into the new chassis frame... :?
Thanks for all the advice.
Ray
Well it was the screw! Whoopee do! Turned out to be a doddle but I guess that was lady luck being on my side for a change.
Now how do I stuff Waxoyl into the new chassis frame... :?
Thanks for all the advice.
Ray
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#15
The Spares Part Catalogue clearly identifies the allen head screw as part number C17469 on the Lower Steering Column Assembly C20487. The thread is 1/4 UNF and the allen key is 3/16.
For those of you who want to see this in context and hopefully check if you have the correct original lower joint end yoke, part number 8699, which is the allen keyed yoke which differs from the nut and bolt yokes, (number 8700) at the upper end of the lower steering column, I attach a few photos. The second photo shows how the allen screw fits neatly to make a snug fit and compact assembly without a big bolt or nut sticking out. The third and final photo shows it fitted on my car, which for secondary interest shows my alternative timing marker I fitted to avoid grovelling under the car when doing the timing. It simply bolts on using the sump bolts and I re-marked the pulley to suit.
My understanding was that Jaguar fitted this allen headed yoke to ensure the joint fastening cleared the picture frame. They are the proverbial "Hens teeth" as I am unaware of anyone who now lists them. I bought up as many as I could whenever I saw them a few years back :D .


[/url]
For those of you who want to see this in context and hopefully check if you have the correct original lower joint end yoke, part number 8699, which is the allen keyed yoke which differs from the nut and bolt yokes, (number 8700) at the upper end of the lower steering column, I attach a few photos. The second photo shows how the allen screw fits neatly to make a snug fit and compact assembly without a big bolt or nut sticking out. The third and final photo shows it fitted on my car, which for secondary interest shows my alternative timing marker I fitted to avoid grovelling under the car when doing the timing. It simply bolts on using the sump bolts and I re-marked the pulley to suit.
My understanding was that Jaguar fitted this allen headed yoke to ensure the joint fastening cleared the picture frame. They are the proverbial "Hens teeth" as I am unaware of anyone who now lists them. I bought up as many as I could whenever I saw them a few years back :D .


[/url]| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |


