Clutch remote bleeder

[Durango2k]

At the moment I think I'll make my own longer rod. I know there were 80 and 90 mm ?, but iirc mine already is the longer one. But see my video....

It won't be easy to measure the correct length- but I'll find a way. Maybe I just weld another 2 cm on mine, and see where this gets me to.

Carsten

[mgcjag]

Everything you need to know about slave cylinder...again viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9381&p=73504

[Durango2k]

Maybe it is just me, but it did not give me what I needed to know: how do I get my setup to work ?

All I replaced was the clutch and the slave with a visually identical unit.

Carsten

[Hugo]

But was the original one correct?

[Durango2k]

Who knows. But then, wich setup for a 9.5 diaphragma clutch in an S1, which came with a 10 inch diaphragma clutch ? Quite a few people told me that a 10" diaphragma version never existed ! (I still have it).

In the end- wichever setup is / was original, the only goal is to have the arm / release bearing floating 1-2 mm above the clutch mech. Using an external spring only means the rod has to be of the correct length.

I think ordering anything from SNG won't better it- and the slave cyl, spring is from there, with their page showing them as being the correct items.

I'll try the "longer rod" first.

Carsten

[Hugo]

If it were mine, I think I would make up a pushrod short enough that it allows plenty of clearance when the piston is pushed right into the cylinder (bearing in mind you will use up the free play as the clutch wears), then fit a return spring & adjust to the correct length. All the rest is academic really.
Incidentally I fitted a new pedal return spring on mine then immediately took it off again as it was far too heavy. I doubt whether it would have lasted long, and in any case it would have made the pedal much heavier than need be.

[mgcjag]

Hi Carsten....had problems getting mine to work.....i opted for the return spring to hold the release bearing back and i used some threaded rod to make a longer pushrod.....then adjust ar per the service manual .. Steve

[nefematic]

Carsten,

The film shows way too much play? Having experienced the same symptoms, I disconnected the spring, undid the fixing and lengthend the rod - pushing the cylinder all the way back until no play left. Then then shorten the rod for 1/16" play and fasten up. IIRC the 1/16" play was correct for S2.

Martin

[Durango2k]

... now this is, as we say, water on my mule- with 2 people saying "been there, done that" I'm more confident.

Did you

a) lengthen the 5/16 (I believe this is the size of the thread on the rod ? from another post),

b) or weld a bit of an old nail on top, or

c) did you cut it the thrad in the carrier to the next metric size (maybe 8 mm) and
use a piece of 1 mtre metric 8 mm rod in stainless ?

Carsten

[mgcjag]

Hi Carsten ...use whatever is easier....i had threaded rod...so used that.. Steve

[nefematic]

My slave length was (excuse the use of metrics for today please) 95mm, the functioning pushrod was 100mm (35 threaded, 65 unthreaded). I didn't ,lengthen' the pushrod, it is threaded so just unscrew until the slave cylinder is pushed to max. Check possible reservoir overflow when doing this.

How long are your cyl/pushrod? They both come in different lengths and should be a fitted pair but as others say it's easy to add an extension.

Martin

[Durango2k]

My rod was 82 mm. I welded 2 cms on it, so it is now 100 and seems to work.

How much travel does the clutch need ? The arm only has about 1.5 cm behind it, from touching the clutch mech face to the bellhousing. But has about 2.5 cm to the front.

Carsten

[288gto]

Hi Carsten,

I'm just refurbishing mine ready to fit.
Interestingly I have two of the female parts which are of different lengths but both the male threaded rods were the same. The thread is 5/16 unf.

The pic might be useful? (or might confuse people even more.

Mareks explanation in Steve's link seemed to make sense.



Simon