Non-standard S2 ignition switch hot?

[catnip]

During an overhaul of the carbs, we noticed that the ignition switch was getting really hot. Examination of previous threads suggests carbon contacts are wearing out, creating higher resistance and hence excessive heat. I was advised to buy a replacement - done today from SNG.

Car is import from US (built August 1970). It has ballast resistor across coil.

Having taken the switch off tonight, it looks nothing like what I was expecting. I may have to cancel the SNG order.

Switch is held on by chrome nut:


There appears to be no steering lock mecanism, just a switch:




Chrome nut removed:


Layout at rear:




Layout at front:


I can make out the words 'LUCAS' on the switch but not much else.
My concern is that the key mechanism is a physical part of the switch. The part the key goes into is also loose.
Does it come out?
Does anyone know where to get a new one?

Any help appreciated.

[catnip]

......erm. I'm just realising this may be an easy fix. Plenty of identical Lucas 47 SA switches (with keys) on eBay. I'm presuming these will handle the current?
Can't find the rubber protective boot for the ignition switch though.

[Hugo]

That's a Series One switch, isn't it? No steering lock? I have a US steering column in my pile of leftovers out the back (from a LHD to RHD conversion). I'll take a look in daylight but I don't thik it's anything like the one you are showing. I'm rebuilding mine without the steering lock - I hate the things - in fact I hate keys in general - they cause more trouble than they're worth (when you lose them, like I do). All of my vehicles are set up so you don't need a key to get in or start the car.

[288gto]

Dan,

Looking at the pictures, I'm pretty sure you have the correct S2 column. It has the housing for the steering lock type switch.
HOWEVER, the rest of it appears to be a modification.

If the steering lock housing on the column is still intact, you should be able to fit the correct S2 lock / ignition switch.

Can you post a picture of the area you removed the switch from.

You would also want to make sure all the original lock mechanism has been removed incase it inadvertently engages.

I hope that made sense and helps.

Simon

[mark10337]

It is exactly the same as my S2 ignition switch on a LHD US model OTS.

There were at least 3 different ignition switches used during the S2 production. [source: The Complete, Illustrated Jaguar E-Type Series II Parts Manual and Restoration Guide, XKEbooks.com]

Steering lock was an option on pre-1970 export cars. It was introduced as standard from the 1970 model onwards.

The picture looks like part C.28522 (Lucas 34503).

[288gto]

Mark,

That is very interesting, I always thought it was a different type of bracket more like the S1.5.
Does that mean it is an S2 steering lock column but with a bracket Jaguar attached which takes the S1 style ignition switch.

How does the bracket attached to the column and is the hole still there for a steering lock?

Simon

[juicerider]

Yeah I've got a S2 OTS also from the states. It was built in 1968 and has the exact same ignition switch. However my ignition switch is mounted on a plate that bolts to the steering column like the S1 has.
I took mine apart as well and gave it a clean as part of the resto. Comes apart fairly easy, defiantly worth doing if yours is getting hot.

[mark10337]

Hi Simon

The answer is, it depends. On my car (OTS Aug 1969), the hole for the steering lock is there, but that isn't the case with all cars. The ignition operates with the same key as for the doors, and not a larger type as per the steering lock.

The very early RHD and earlier LHD were fitted with the C.28522 (Lucas 34503) switch mounted on a bezel that protruded from the steering column. This was different if the later air con was fitted.

Starting with the 1970 model, all cars were fitted with the same lock/ignition switch. Parts and service bulletins only refer to C.3259 column lock/switch assembly with a 12645 (Lucas 39449) switch. However, the parts manuals all refer to C.34182 column lock/switch assembly with a C.35846 (Lucas 39679) switch.
The C.35846 switch came in 2 types - one with a phenolic back (B) and one with a white molded back (A). The contact layout was different but the numbering and function was identical.

The factory stated that as soon as the C.32569 assembly was introduced, it replaced the earlier column locks for spares as the earlier ones were made obsolete.

[catnip]

Well I have just received my replacement switch. Got it off ebay for 12.50GBP. It's a Lucas 34680 with two keys. I am not fussed about getting the steering lock to work, I just want the car going.

The original one suggested by SNG had to be returned (incorrect part). They do do the correct part, but its got a horrible blue facia.

I will make a bespoke tool to tighten the ignition switch nut up (based on previous designs on this site).

No-one seems to supply the rubber boot though. So I have bought some BIG heatshrink sleeving. I will test all connections before I get the heat gun out and shrink it.

I had not realised that the key can be turned anti-clockwise first, to enable auxiliaries (always learning!)

I recently tested my ballast resistor. There was a loose connection (unrepairable) and the resistance was either open circuit or a few ohms. I have now bought a new ballast resistor and a sports coil. I hope I will have no issues with the beefier coil (that others have reported). The loose ballast connection may hopefully cure my highly erratic tacho dial readings, since they are on the same circuit.

BTW - had a long chat with a C-Type owner at Prescott Hill Climb yesterday. He has put a sports coil on his and said it made a big difference.

[Nickleback]

Dan,
Your quite right the rubber boot is now obsolete & nobody makes them, but luckily I found a second hand nearly new one for my ignition switch rebuild.
Angus borrowed it to get a copy and was talking about getting them made up, maybe worth a call to him to see if he got any further with the project re-producing them ?