To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Talk about the E-Type Series 1

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inner pickle
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#1 To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by inner pickle » Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:03 pm

Hello guys and gals

apologies for what might well be a juvenile first post ( but I'm confident I'll be sending many more as my rebuild gathers speed )

I'm in the throws of getting my 2+2 bodywork back from the spray shop un-undersealed if you get my drift.

I'm just assessing how best to go about Waxoyling - a process which I'd like to do myself

I'm just wondering if anyone has experience of what to use / do's don't etc

Help very much appreciated. :helpsign:

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Topic author
inner pickle
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#2 Re: To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by inner pickle » Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:13 pm

Sorry, having just read the above question, I must add I'm wondering about the kit I'll need, re compressor/spray gun etc

I've a feeling a small capacity ( cheap ) compressor will be sufficient, maybe a Sealey bit of kit for the spray unit.. and then the mystery begins...

any thoughts?

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cactusman
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#3 Re: To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by cactusman » Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:51 pm

As far as waxoyling a decent air supply is handy. Most important ...the waxoyl needs to be hot. Spray at a reasonably high pressure. A dash of white spirit to thin it might help. It is really best done on a hot summers day when the body is dry and the metal warm so the hot waxoyl will drip and soak into every crevice. When i did my mgb it oozed waxoyl for days afterwards. We must have emptied over five litres into it :bigrin: The jury is out on waxoyl but it has certainly helped preserve my mgb.
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too

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chrisfell
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#4 Re: To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by chrisfell » Wed Feb 28, 2018 9:28 pm

If you are going to use your car, protect it with something. If you intend to keep it warm and dry and only dare to bring it out into the summer sun when there is no danger of any precipitation, no need to.

I drive my car all year round, except when there is salt on the roads. It does get wet. Often. I regard it getting wet as an excuse to wash, rag down and apply fresh polish.

I've been using Waxoyl (other brands are available, indeed I've heard good reports about Dinitrol) for more than 35 years. In that time I've kept just two cars on the road long after their normal lifetime. In each case waxoyling, at regular intervals, prevented the breakout and/or spread of rust. I prefer the clear version rather than the black.

For my E, I use a map of where to inject and spray the waxoyl whch I originally sourced from the web (or it may have been fron this site, but if so I cant find it now). This map was originally produced by or for Dinitrol. Each winter the underside, inside the sills, cross members, door pillars, doors, front wheel arches and inner and out rear wheel arches all get sprayed with a slightly diluted solution of waxoyl. Before that the front arches are cleaned of last year's waxoyl spraying and accumulated road dirt. I also spray the inside of the floor panels, only because my car has never been properly restored and when I inherited it, the floors were a mess of rough patch panels made from various bits of scrap metal and rust encrusted sound deadening. I also spray whole of the boot.

In order to access all the enclosed box sections, several new holes were required. These and a few existing holes, are plugged with rubber grommets.

Is use waxoyl diluted so that it creeps into the smallest gaps between panels. The solvent (usually white spirit) will evapourate leaving just the waxoyl doing its job.

The wheels, chrome/stainless wires on my car, require their own treatment. After a wet run, the wheels are removed, washed with a non-acid wheel cleaner and dried using paper towels and WD40 (other brands are available). Then I use a cloth very slightly dampened with a solution of oil and white spirit wiped over the surfaces. This leaves a dry-to-the-touch finish which protects the finish until the next wet drive. It also attracts dust, which is a price I'm happy to pay.

Others may have their own preferences.
Chris '67 S1 2+2

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288gto
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#5 Re: To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by 288gto » Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:10 pm

Good advice above.

The only things I can add to that are be careful inside the bulkhead area with products like waxoyl that have a low heat tolerance as you may find the heat from the heater pipes in there causes it to drip out. Dinitrol again mentioned above do a heat resistant clear one that is probably best suited for in there.

The OCD in me also found a cheap Chinese boroscope ( €18 posted from a well known online auction site) very useful to looking in all the cavities to make sure I'd got the wax into everywhere.

Have a few rolls of kitchen roll handy it can be messy.

Watch the breather hole in your spray gun applicator doesn't get blocked it can pressurise the canister.

Buy some cheap throw away tin foil trays like the ones for take aways ready for catching the major drips Julian mentioned.

If you do use a cheap compressor let it build up to maximum pressure each time before spraying.


Have fun!


Simon
Simon
1969 S2 OTS

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mgcjag
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#6 Re: To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by mgcjag » Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:18 pm

Diagram as refered to above not very clear.....they are from Dinitrol....but give a good idea
Image


Image
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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Jeremy
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#7 Re: To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by Jeremy » Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:49 pm

I've sworn by Waxoyl in the past but I researched the options before embarking on my E type. Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber seem to score very well in tests and I have used BH Dynax S50 in the cavities and Dinitrol Corroheat (harder almost clear wax) for hotter areas and for protecting zinc plated bolts and fittings. No compressor, just bought lots of aerosols. The Dynax comes out thin and fizzes and runs and really penetrates as you apply it, then starts to set and get sticky. They supply long lances which give a good 360 degree fan spray.
And what a mess... First thing I did was buy a 3m x 5m heavy duty polythene sheet and open it out under the car.
Very glad I did. Then I taped over every conceivable orifice, large and small, except the designated drain holes. Fully half of the stuff ended up in sticky pools on the sheet despite my efforts to catch it in jars and trays.
Oh - and fit all the sound and heatproofing (E. G Koolmat, bitumen pads or whatever) before you start. Nothing will stick once the waxy stuff is let loose.
Jeremy
1967 S1 4.2 FHC

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Topic author
inner pickle
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#8 Re: To underseal, or not underseal, that is the question..

Post by inner pickle » Wed Feb 28, 2018 11:11 pm

Listen guys, my grateful thanks here.

Being a "new-by" having posted the question I then sought out the search button and had a quick look through previous posts, much of which was covered in June last year.

However, the practical tips, like fitting the insulation - is vital. My grateful thanks again.
I'll get spraying soon as.

Usually with car forums, you sign off with "happy driving".....
with my E Type I'm afraid it's "happy spending"

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