Clutch slave cylinder 'aftermarket' or 'standard'

[mtnjag]

Read it and the other referenced posts but It doesn’t make it clear to me how to treat this situation. Perhaps I am mixing up types. Here’s what I am thinking, pleases advise where I am going wrong.
1. My old slave had a ciclip limiting outward travel of the cylinder.
Therefore I could remove the external return spring. Push the rod attached to the clutch fork fully back toward the rear of the car and adjust the rod with 1/6” of free travel “rattle” between the limited travel slave cyl piston and the fully back position of the clutch fork.
2. Without the circlip the piston moves all the Way out to meet the rod no matter how short I make the rod. So I cannot set any freeplay “rattle”. It will always go out to meet the rod.

The original/ old and new slave are both 80mm. External return spring, it’s the original rod so I assume that’s a long rod due to vintage.

Am I adjusting incorrectly for the new no circlip short slave?
Without the circlip does the slave become a htdrostatic rather than a non-hydrostatic?
Am I completely turned around here?

[mtnjag]

Just saw your new post. Yeah, I’m going by the book but confused what I have here . I am trying to adjust as per earlier style since this Is a short 80mm length like my old one with the circling.

So do I remove the return spring and treat this like the later long style even tho it’s the short slave?

[mgcjag]

Hi Layne...the 80mm cylinder is the non hydrostatic type that is used in conjunction with the external spring....it also has an internal spring as shown in the service manual......when adjusting its easier to disconnect the large spring and the pushrod from the fork....move fork fully rearwards so the thrust bearing touches the clutch cover plate.......push the pushrod fully into the cylinder and adjust to 1/16in then connect everthing back up....the external spring should over come the small spring inside the cylinder.......Steve

[mtnjag]

That’s the way it works with the slave that has a circlip limiting how far out the piston comes. But with no circip the piston comes out so far that you cannot get any freeplay with the fork back and the rod fully shortened.

That’s my dilemma.

[mgcjag]

Hi Layne...not understanding this....the piston should not come out to get free play...the piston should be pushed fully in to adjust free play

[mtnjag]

There are two different adjustment methods depending on slave type. You are describing the method for the later long style.

For the early, short, non-hydrostatic slave the manual says “ remove the return spring, then move the operating lever toward the slave cylinder until restriction is felt then return it to the withdrawal lever held at its fullest extent.” The example drawing shows the rod fully withdrawn with the clutch fork fully back and 1/16” of free travel indicated. This is the type I had that leaked and had a circlip and am replacing with another short style but the new one has no circlip.

The long hydrostatic type shows it fully pushed in and .75” between centers of pin and clutch fork.

But I have the short early style (but the replacement is without the circlip) which I am still interpreting to be a non-hydroscopic. Without the circlip the piston continues to come out and meet the rod so the book admjustmentis not possible.

So does lack of a circlip change it to a hydroscopic?

Thanks for staying with me on this.

[mgcjag]

Hi Layne...no the lack of circlip dosnt make it a hydro......the two types of cylinder use different lenghth pushrods.....as far as im aware the adjustment directions in the service manual are a bit ambiguous....to adjust either the pushrod/piston needs to be pushed fully in...the wording in service manual for 1/16 is....moveing the operaring rod towards towards the cylinder....it dosnt say how far..it should be pushed fully in......try it see how you get on......Steve

[mtnjag]

Problem with pushing it in is there is either hydraulic pressure against the piston or internal spring pressure so no “freeplay “ is experienced.

Are you saying don’t use the 1/6” free play technique and instead go to the push in and get .75” center to center technique for the later long style?

[mgcjag]

Sending you a pm

[mtnjag]

I think Steve finally got through to me has me understanding what's up. I'll report back once set up.

[mtnjag]

To complicate and confuse the situation, turns out the new repro MC I bought from a main supplier to replace my leaky one is bad. Took a while but I discovered that it would push fluid and bleed with the bleed screw open but when closing it the fluid bypassed back into the reservoir and I had no slave actuation.

Rebuilt my old MC, used the new slave without the circlip and all is good. Set free play as directed and clutch feels and works great!