New Member Advice wanted

[Darby]

Hi folks! New series ii in Texas. Aims to be daily driver.

Help wanted: as part of the initial state inspection I had the horn fixed and the oil changed. Had no issues driving/testing (40-miles over a month) before the changes, but now at cool down the engine shakes like a paint mixer. It is really dramatic.

oil 20/50

It is winter and yes on the cold side but ... this is wrong. Before I bring it back in and point fingers at the mechanic who did the work, would really appreciate some ideas.

So far have come across: hose not reattached properly and air filter installed incorrectly.

[bitsobrits]

Darby,

Welcome! Many good minds here to help you with your new to you machine!

Please explain what you mean by "at cool down". Are you saying after you turn off the key? At idle after a run? More specificity would help to diagnose the issue. Also, which hose was left disconnected?

"Run on", or sometimes called "dieseling", is a condition when a car continues to try and run after the key is turned off. Caused by a hot spot (somewhere in a combustion chamber) ignition of fuel. Usually this occurs due to an overly lean fuel mixture, overly advanced timing, a vacuum leak, or some combination of the three causing the engine to run hot. A shaking engine and nasty sounds makes it pretty apparent. When this happens then turn the ignition key back to the run position (do not activate the starter!) and that should have the engine running smoothly again. Then turn the key off again just as you give it a brief throttle blip. That usually will give a clean shut down. But figure out what the cause is as it's not at all good for the engine.

Curious to know why the air filter was removed for an oil change? Perhaps you should find a shop more sympathetic to vintage British machines.

[Darby]

Big thanks for that.
Not actually saying either hose or filter are the issue. Those are my guesses from super preliminary online research - which is a lot like taking a pregnancy test online....

New to classic cars so I have no prior points of reference just observation: fine before oil change, post oil change something not right.

It sounds like Run-on based on your description (after you turn off the key). I'm currently in a temp home with no garage. Anything I can do with limited tools to test/resolve before I head back to the mechanic? I have not driven in two weeks since the last incident.

Drivable (with improved shut down suggestion)? or definitely Not?

[mgcjag]

Easiest way to get to the oil filter for a change is to remove the air filter....possibly the distributor got moved...it should be clamped tight...see if you can twist it..means your timming is out ...Steve

[bitsobrits]

As noted by Steve, checking the distributor for rotational motion is a good quick check. Also follow the vacuum hose from the brake booster to the intake manifold to see if the hose is disconnected or broken. Do you recall the engine idle speed before you shut it down? Should be around 600-700 rpm. This being a series 2 US spec car, there may be a very small vacuum tube or hose between the front carb and the distributor for the vacuum retard mechanism. If it's there, make sure it's connected at both ends.

Did you see the shop area where the work was done? Did they place the car on a lift? All sorts of damage can be by a shop with no E type experience using a two post lift. Does this shop have any experience with vintage cars? How far is the drive to the shop?

Forgot to ask: is this car a manual gearbox or automatic? Your photo show an OTS car, so manual, but not sure if the photo is actual or not.

[Darby]

Awesome, great things to test. Will report back.

Yes, Manual 4spd.

Shop is 5mi and manager has a series iii and had a series ii previously. Shop claims to specialize in euro and classics and was recommended on a jag forum. I'm new to the area and only recently back to the US so I'm out of touch on everything local and everything cars.

[bitsobrits]

So the shop should be presumed competent, but perhaps put a less experienced hand on the project? Didn't mean to scare you there, but I've owned a few cars (including my current E type) that were damaged by non specialists shops. After you have checked for obvious issues, I would call them and describe your experience and see what they have to say. Perhaps they can make a house call. If not, 5 miles is a pretty short distance, and if it starts and operates normally then I would take it in.