Warm starting
#1 Warm starting
Following the new fuel pump and fix in the dizzy the old girl is running well. The only issue I face at present is restarting the engine when it's hot. If the car has been sitting for sometime idling and I accidently stall it I can't get her to restart, having to leave her to cool then she starts fine. Does anyone lese face this and how do you overcome it 
Regards,
Shaguar
1970 S2 2+2
Shaguar
1970 S2 2+2
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p1vickers
#2
This sounds like a ignition coil problem or the coil ht lead. Did you check the carbon centre terminal in the distributor cap when you fitted the new points?
Regards
Pete
Regards
Pete
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#3
Had that problem once and it turned out to be a bad coil. With the engine switched off the coil gets really hot as it is on top of the radiator and the windings start to break down. Let it cool and it seems to heal itself. Fixed mine by putting a new Lucas Sports coil on which also seemed to perk up the performance. Worth trying if you have a spare coil lying around.
David
David
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
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S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#4
David and Pete, Thanks guys for your advice.
David,
I'd already ordered and I'm awaiting delivery of a ignition coil based on your last advice, so I'll fit it and let you know the outcome.
David,
I'd already ordered and I'm awaiting delivery of a ignition coil based on your last advice, so I'll fit it and let you know the outcome.
Regards,
Shaguar
1970 S2 2+2
Shaguar
1970 S2 2+2
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MarkE
- Posts: 884
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#5
If you still have the original system, fit new points and condenser as well. I've had this problem on a couple of cars, usually after they have been laid up for a while.
I was fooled one time by putting on a new coil and condenser to find the same problem existed. Someone suggested not to trust the new products, and try yet another coil and condenser...indeed, the new fitted condenser was as duff as the old one. Once corrected, I haven't had a problem since.
Mark
I was fooled one time by putting on a new coil and condenser to find the same problem existed. Someone suggested not to trust the new products, and try yet another coil and condenser...indeed, the new fitted condenser was as duff as the old one. Once corrected, I haven't had a problem since.
Mark
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#6
UPDATE
When she was up to working temperature, say after a long run and then was left to sit idling in neutral, when D1 was engaged on the gearbox she stalled and would not restart. Leaving her for about ten minutes usually did the trick, David suggested the ignition coil when I originally posted the fault and at the time I?d purchased a new one but not got around to replacing it. Did so today and took her for a long run, attempted to recreate the conditions and all seems okay.
Tested the old coil out of the car using the general information from the internet (primary should be 3 ohms and secondary 10-11K). The readings I was getting were 3.1 ohms on the primary reading and 10,800 ohms on the secondary. Decided to put it in the oven at 100 degrees (operating temperature) for ten minutes and reread, the primary was now 3.6 ohms and the secondary had risen to 11,800 ohms. Does this suggest it fails under heat?
When she was up to working temperature, say after a long run and then was left to sit idling in neutral, when D1 was engaged on the gearbox she stalled and would not restart. Leaving her for about ten minutes usually did the trick, David suggested the ignition coil when I originally posted the fault and at the time I?d purchased a new one but not got around to replacing it. Did so today and took her for a long run, attempted to recreate the conditions and all seems okay.
Tested the old coil out of the car using the general information from the internet (primary should be 3 ohms and secondary 10-11K). The readings I was getting were 3.1 ohms on the primary reading and 10,800 ohms on the secondary. Decided to put it in the oven at 100 degrees (operating temperature) for ten minutes and reread, the primary was now 3.6 ohms and the secondary had risen to 11,800 ohms. Does this suggest it fails under heat?
Regards,
Shaguar
1970 S2 2+2
Shaguar
1970 S2 2+2
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#7
Sounds about right to me Shag. You'd expect the resistane to increase as it gets warmer (lots of excited sub atomic particles getting in the way).
When they break down it's as good as a broken wire.
Andy
When they break down it's as good as a broken wire.
Andy
1966 2+2 MOD Conversion


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#8
Difficult to tell for sure as your oven test might not be an exact recreation of events. The extra resistance would indeed be enough to make starting difficult so you may have found the problem. A case of continuing to run the car and hope for the best. There is not much else on the car that would cause the fault - points or HT leads breaking down, possibly. Keep us informed but hopefully you have nailed it.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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