Clutch Fluid Loss 1970 S2 2+2

[Paul 012]

Embarrassing breakdown at Dundas Square in Toronto.

Clutch pedal lost all pressure with car in gear.

When stopped, depressing clutch pedal expelled fluid underneath. Lovely puddle continued to accumulate whilst waiting for a tow.

Searched forum but no luck on this subject.

Any suggested plan of attack or should I just flat bed the car to a garage.

Paul

[Heuer]

Sounds like the clutch slave has failed. New one required unfortunately so flat bed recovery required. Replacement is relatively easy so any competent garage should be able to do the work once you have located a replacement. When was the slave last replaced? I only ask because I am interested in the failure rates of the modern replacements.

[PeterCrespin]

Embarrassing breakdown at Dundas Square in Toronto.

Clutch pedal lost all pressure with car in gear.Any suggested plan of attack or should I just flat bed the car to a garage.

Paul

You should be able to drive it home in an emergency. although from a city centre it would be awkward. You can change gear without the clutch if you match the revs and don't mind it being a bit jerky. You can knock it into neutral when/if you have to come to a halt. If it's a downhill halt you can then let it get rolling before selecting first but if it's flat or uphill you have to stop the engine and restart in first. The car will move away from rest under the starter and then engine when it fires.

Anyone who has had to ride a motorbike home with a broken clutch cable has had the requisite training but it's not hard to learn. Never done it with a Moss box I have to admit...but I know someone who drove home to Venlo in the Netherlands from Reims in a clutchless 3.8

Pete

[Heuer]

I once drove my MG Midget from North Wales to the centre of London without a clutch - two up, luggage and a pair of big hi-fi speakers behind the seats. I started the car with first engaged and it got us rolling and then did as Pete advised in changing gear. Motorway was not a problem but junctions and traffic lights were a case of using low speed and judgement. Not sure I would want to do it in an E-Type though.

[christopher storey]

I drove my Standard Pennant home to Cheshire from the top of the M1 without a gear lever , stuck in top gear ! It involved going round roundabouts several times until one could achieve escape velocity, slowing down for traffic lights in the hope they would go green as one got there etc.

The moral to this tale was : even at 1 o'clock in the morning , when you drop a washer on the floor , pick it up . I had had the engine and gearbox out on the Friday night before leaving for London on the Sat a.m., and dropped a split washer from the remote gear linkage whilst reassembling it. Oh bugger it, I said and carried on regardless......

[Paul 012]

Looks like a reasonable job for a handy man. A new slave cylinder would seem preferable of the rubber replacement will only last a short time so on to purchase that now.
I was too nervous to try the no clutch driving as I have not had the etype long enogh to learn the revs so did not want to mash the gearbox in trying: perhaps as time goes on.
I'll let everyone know how it goes.
Appreciate everyone's input
Paul

[Heuer]

Try and buy a genuine Jaguar or AP Lockheed slave because the generic ones suffer from premature failure. There are two type 80mm short one and the 95mm long 'Hydrostatic' self adjusting type. Yours should be the latter with no return spring.

[Paul 012]

I am having a terrible time removing the old slave cylinder.
The first bolt came out well, the hydraulic pipe came off, but getting to the second bolt of the body, there is no space to get in there.
I cannot get a ratchet onto the bolt.
I tried a 30deg off set wrench but no space again.
Someone has suggested I grind down a 9/16 head to offer more space.
Any suggestions.
Will removing the centre gear box cover in the car help?

BTW: my slave is WITH the return spring, not hydrostatic as suggested it should be. Does this mean PO changed this component which does look original.

[Heuer]

You can fit either the long or short slave but measure them, although it is pretty obvious 80mm vs 95mm IIRC. May as well continue with a copy of the one you have to save messing around with changing operating rods.

As for the upper bolt: First of all they should both be studs with a nut, spring washer and plain washer on each. Are yours studs or bolts? My method was to remove the lower stud so the slave could be rotated clockwise to allow access to the other nut after which you should be able to lift it off. When it comes to refitting I used Allen bolts in place of the studs/nuts because an Allen key will fit easily and it makes tightening/subsequent replacement (when the modern replacement leaks immediately after fitting - twice in my case) very easy indeed.

[Paul 012]

Used a smaller socket and a connector which was trimmed, then used a self ratcheting wrench.
Really think the allen key bolt is a great idea as this will allow for easy removal "next time". I believe you suggested this on another thread so will look that up to find a supplier although if if I recall, it was in UK and I am in Canada. I am sure we colonials can access these

Awaiting new slave from SNG and should be set to go
Will keep everyone up to date on refit and gear engagement success.

[Heuer]

The Allen bolt is 5/16" UNC (possibly UNF - you will know once it is removed) and easy to buy in most hardware stores. Use the stud to work out the length.