Teflon front crank oil seal

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Fri Mar 28, 2014 8:28 pm

Can someone direct me to the manufacturer's instructions for installing this?

As it's a 1980's upgrade was there a Jaguar technical bulletin from that period covering it?

johnney · Post by **johnney** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:23 am

Andrew, this page covers it in some detail.

http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Cra ... kSeal.html

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:10 am

Thanks for that. I have seen that, but was curious to see if Jaguar have a recommended procedure.

JEP41 · Post by **JEP41** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 10:32 am

For what its worth I have tried to install these seals on two occasions and both times the seal was damaged during the installation of the front timing cover and both times I went back to the original design and had no issues.

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 1:01 pm

JEP41 wrote:For what its worth I have tried to install these seals on two occasions and both times the seal was damaged during the installation of the front timing cover.

Don't follow. Sounds a bit like saying the head was damaged during the fitting of the pistons. The timing cover should be installed before you fit the seal.

I helped someone do this job by phone the other day with the engine in the car and all went fine. Dick's little photo essay is excellent and covers everything.

Pete

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:58 pm

Still hoping someone has this information as I really want to know how to do this properly. I can't find out who makes the seals for Jaguar either so I've been unable to ask the manufacturer.

I have been able to glean a fair bit of general info about Teflon/PTFE seals from the internet. It seems you:

1. Install them dry and unlubricated. See 4.
2. Need to use the yellow installation tool they come mounted on to stretch the seal over the distance piece.
3. Can't run the engine for a period of time after installation to allow the seal to shrink back to fit the distance piece (hours? or days?).
4. On first run the dry seal "burns" a thin layer of teflon onto the metal of the distance piece which effectively gives you a teflon to teflon seal.

My interest in this stems from having to replace my front seal on my newly rebuilt 3.8. When I installed the original seal I put it in backwards. I had not used a teflon seal before and the seal was mounted on the installation piece backwards in the packet. It seemed counter intuitive to have to reverse the seal before installation and so I installed it as it came.

I now have to replace it. I can't do it the Georgia Jag way because the distance piece is firmly attached to the crank with Loctite and can't be removed without destroying it.

I can't install the seal as Peter recommends because the lip on the timing cover prevents removal and reinsertion of the seal with the timing cover in place.

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:09 pm

As an aside one new thing I have learned about in doing this was CRC Spray On Gasket Remover. This stuff is the duck's guts.

I'm a bit afraid to know what it is made of but the sump gasket came off like warm butter after soaking for 10 minutes.

I'm still chiselling the rest of the gasket off the block. Can't use it there because the instructions say it will strip paint "instantly".

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 1:59 am

Your problem is an irremovable seal distance piece. You won't be able safely or easily to swap a seal over an in situ distance piece, it should be fed into the seal (which can fit into the timing cover groove when loose around the frank nose with no spacer).

I see only the prospect of wasted parts and money if you don't follow Dick's instructions, sorry. The idea of it being normal for some Teflon to smear onto the inner sleeve to give a 'Teflon on Teflon' seal sounds crazy. The oil slinger is left out precisely to lube the seal and prevent smearing. Do it right and buy all the bits is my advice. Teflon seals are delicate and not cheap. No point ruining them so you may as well try prising the old spacer off and save on new seals even if you need a new spacer. Don't loctite it on either - they have o-ring grooves for oil-tightness.

Pete

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 3:04 am

PeterCrespin wrote:
I see only the prospect of wasted parts and money if you don't follow Dick's instructions, sorry. The idea of it being normal for some Teflon to smear onto the inner sleeve to give a 'Teflon on Teflon' seal sounds crazy.
Pete

This is why I actually want to hear it from the horse's mouth.

http://www.engineaustralia.com.au/~engi ... /SB035.pdf

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