I am finally assembling the front suspension as part of a 7+ year restoration.. I have a zinc plated set of brake dust shields, but would prefer stainless steel. Does anyone know of a supplier
Series 1 Front brake dust shields.
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etypesteve
Topic author - Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:17 pm
- Location: NW London

#1 Series 1 Front brake dust shields.
Hi All,
I am finally assembling the front suspension as part of a 7+ year restoration.. I have a zinc plated set of brake dust shields, but would prefer stainless steel. Does anyone know of a supplier
I am finally assembling the front suspension as part of a 7+ year restoration.. I have a zinc plated set of brake dust shields, but would prefer stainless steel. Does anyone know of a supplier
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#2
Did S1's have front dust shields, our 4.2 had none when we got it, the parts catalogues and service manuals dont show any either, but I have them on my S3 and they are a sensible upgrade if they arent standard.
I would like a pair too
I would like a pair too
64 S1 4.2 OTS 1E10012 73 S3 2+2 manual 2013 V6 F type OTS
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PeterCrespin
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#3
Early cars had none, later cars had them. Roughly matches the 3.8/4.2 split I think. I very much doubt anyone would bother making press tools for parts that probably only a small number of people would choose over 'standard' spec, especially as it would offer no functional improvement and is not highly visible..
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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Moeregaard
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#4
Thomas Haddock's book says the brake shields came along around Feb., 1965. My very early 4.2 (1E30036/Sept., 1964) did not have them. My '66 (1E32208/Nov., 1965) did. From what I can tell, the shields made their appearance around the time the early 4.2-litre cars were undergoing a few other minor changes, as the supply of 3.8 components was used up.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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christopher storey
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#5
Yes, my FHC built 2/1965 1E20357 had them. I took them off and have never missed them, and as far as I remember if you wish to use eg Zeus or Coopercraft, they have to be deleted
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#6
That explains why ours doesnt have them, our S1 is August 1964 4.2 chassis no 12, we have fitted coopercraft calipers as well so I will do without them.
64 S1 4.2 OTS 1E10012 73 S3 2+2 manual 2013 V6 F type OTS
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etypesteve
Topic author - Posts: 6
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#7
Thanks All for responses.
As my E was built in December 1967, for the sake of originality, I will fit the zinc plated brake shields. At least they will stop some of the brake dust.
As my E was built in December 1967, for the sake of originality, I will fit the zinc plated brake shields. At least they will stop some of the brake dust.
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#8
My 2+2 has Coopercraft front calipers - why do the dust shields have to be removed? I ask because I have an annoying 'thrum' from the front n/s wheel/brake area which quickens with speed etc. I can't see how it could be connected to the brake shield but would be interested to know why the shields should be removed as mine are still in place.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Malc
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
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christopher storey
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#9
Malc : I am not sure whether your car would originally have had Girling calipers - it is right on the line between Dunlops and Girlings, and I think the shields probably will be different for the two setups . This may explain why you have been able to keep your shields with Coopercraft
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#10
Christopher - my car originally had Dunlops so maybe the later ones did not have to have the shields removed. Slightly off subject, anyone got any idea as to what a 'rubbing' sound from the n/s front wheel area that increases with speed might be? It is not a metallic sound, it is deeper - I have recently replaced all the rubbers on the front suspension plus the dampers and set the ride height (not because of the noise, just to set it all up properly) but the noise still remains. I'm also going to replace the front wheel bearings soon, but I don't think they are the problem. The brake discs seem to be true and the sound is still there if you drive with your foot on the brakes. Any ideas?
Thanks
Thanks
Malc
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
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#11
Malc - some thoughts;
Could it be the brake caliper rubbing very slightly on the wheel or the disc or the hub. Do you have any witness marks on any of these components which might indicate contact?
Or, does it change when moving the steering from straight ahead to sideways lock? In which case could it be the tyre just rubbing on the back of the headlamp bowl?
When you say it increases with speed, is that road speed or engine rpm? If the latter could it be a rub between the alternator pulley and something nearby?
Can you reproduce the noise with the front jacked up by spinning the wheel?
Could it be the brake caliper rubbing very slightly on the wheel or the disc or the hub. Do you have any witness marks on any of these components which might indicate contact?
Or, does it change when moving the steering from straight ahead to sideways lock? In which case could it be the tyre just rubbing on the back of the headlamp bowl?
When you say it increases with speed, is that road speed or engine rpm? If the latter could it be a rub between the alternator pulley and something nearby?
Can you reproduce the noise with the front jacked up by spinning the wheel?
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
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christopher storey
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#12
Malc : I have to say, I was going to suggest wheel bearings for your noise . It is a characteristic deep rumble which increases in volume with speed . It is not in fact very difficult to inspect the outer race : pull the split pin, undo the nut and pull the cage out with a magnet or piece of hooked wire, wobbling the wheel as you do so . What you are looking for is any deformation of the cage, seized rollers, or foreign bodies . If these are present a new bearing is needed, and if you give local bearing suppliers rather than the usual Jaguar suppliers the Timken or other number ( etched on the cage face ) they can usually produce them by return
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#13
Thanks for the suggestions - John, I can't replicate the noise with the suspension off the ground and spinning the wheel; the noise increases with road speed not engine; the noise increases when I go round a bend; and I can't see any tell tale rub marks on the caliper or wheel.
Christopher, the noise is not constant in that it is there with each re solution of the wheel like a 'rum, rum, rum' noise which gets quicker as speed increases.
I suspect that something is rubbing somewhere, probably the wheel and something - one thing I haven't tried it to swap the wheels over and see if the noise is still there - could be an out of shape wheel. I shall also have another good look to see if there any rub marks and as I've got the new wheel bearings, I shall cover that one as well!
Christopher, the noise is not constant in that it is there with each re solution of the wheel like a 'rum, rum, rum' noise which gets quicker as speed increases.
I suspect that something is rubbing somewhere, probably the wheel and something - one thing I haven't tried it to swap the wheels over and see if the noise is still there - could be an out of shape wheel. I shall also have another good look to see if there any rub marks and as I've got the new wheel bearings, I shall cover that one as well!
Malc
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
Series 1 2+2, 1968 Blue exterior, grey interior
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