Series 2 - Water pump belt replacement

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iani
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#1 Series 2 - Water pump belt replacement

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:05 pm

Is there a trick to getting this belt off? I have pushed the tensioner in and managed to get the belt off the jockey pulley, I can't get it off the main pulleys though, I don't want to cut it and then find I can't get the new one on. This setup isn't covered in the manuals, probably because it's so obvious and I'm just not doing it right :P

Ian
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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ALAN COCHRANE
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#2

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:15 pm

Ian

I'm assuming you have a S1 E-Type. If it's running with an Lucas 11AC alternator then I've found the best way is to tie wrap the idler wheel tight to the water pump pulley. Then dismount the alternator from it's bracket by withdrawing the long bolt. Remove the alternator by swinging the rear out from the engine. This moves the fan pulley inwards and allows the belt to be removed.
As the Haynes manual states "refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure".

Cheers

Alan
Alan Cochrane

1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#3

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:18 pm

Thanks Alan but my car is a Series 2 so on twin belts. On other cars I've had with a tensioner you can normally put a socket on the tensioner to move it, this isn't possibly in this case.
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#4

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:36 pm

Ian

I shouldn't think it would matter if you're running a single(S1) or double V(S2) fanbelt. Removing the alternator would seem the way to go.
I take it your alternator will have the small pulley wheel whereas mine has a much larger single V pulley wheel to allow the original S1 fanbelt to be retained.
Like you I was initially surprised at how little tension was released by pulling in the idler wheel-far too little to remove the belt. Or maybe I'm missing something obvious as well.

Alan
Alan Cochrane

1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#5

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:55 pm

Thanks Alan, I've already removed the alternator belt to get clearance to remove the water pump belt, how would removing the alternator itself change anything?
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#6

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Fri Sep 05, 2014 2:09 pm

Ian

Sorry I didn't realise you had two separate belts-my ignorance on show again. I can see your problem now. I'm sure a more learned member will be along shortly.

Cheers

Alan
Alan Cochrane

1961 S1 OTS,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#7

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 2:11 pm

No problem Alan, I'm trawling through the JLR's site and it's not looking good, seems like I may have to cut the old belt off, your idea about tying the tensioner up to fit the new belt looks sound.
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#8

Post by simong » Fri Sep 05, 2014 3:39 pm

Ian

I also found this challenging, especially as I have power steering fitted. I ended up removing the pulley from the water pump, this also made fitting the new belt a bit easier. Probably the not correct method but it worked!

Simon
Simon
1969 S2 2+2, 1974 MG Midget

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#9

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 4:27 pm

Thanks Simon, I'll give this a go tomorrow.

Ian
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#10

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 5:17 pm

I have just removed the old belt by removing the pulleys. However, the belt that came off is marked 385, the replacement (SNGB) is 375, I'm now wondering which is correct. The reason I want to change the belt is down to it being quite slack, I also see my temp gauge dropping when I come to a halt and I believe this is down to poor water flow, it rises straight away on moving off again, I suspect the old belt was slipping at low revs.

Looks like I need a second pair of hands to refit the pulleys so that's a job for tomorrow.

Ian
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#11

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 5:21 pm

Just found a manufacturers site that gives the dimensions:

http://www.niparts.com/OEM/A2C2AF/JAGUAR/C28955.html

Looks like my new 775 belt is the correct one, hopefully this explains why last one was so slack, 10mm too long.

Ian
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#12

Post by iani » Fri Sep 05, 2014 7:13 pm

Right, tensioner wedged out of the way, new belt around crank pulley & pump pulley, now I can't get the pulley to bolt back on, what a pig of a job. I have some assistance coming tomorrow so garage shut for the night.

Ian
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#13

Post by iani » Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:33 am

Job done, belt now much tighter & tensioner fully off, what a pig of a job that was. Thanks to all who assisted.

Ian
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#14

Post by PeterCrespin » Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:31 pm

Let us know if it affects your anomalous temp gauge issues. I have my doubts but am interested to learn. I'd be interested in a good pic of your belt setup and tensioner too as my '70 doesn't have one.

Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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#15

Post by iani » Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:39 pm

We're on a lengthy run tomorrow Pete so I'll see how the gauge behaves then. Difficult to take pics now as my tensioner is directly below the water pump pulley, previously it was well out to the O/S and would have been easier to shoot. I'll see what I can do about pics tomorrow in daylight.

Ian
1970 S2 2+2 4sp w/OD in BRG

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#16

Post by PeterCrespin » Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:20 pm

Thanks, but don't sweat it. A flash in the dark recesses and I'll take whatever you turn up. Good luck with the temps.

Pete
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