Why do small jobs always grow arms & legs

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Hi Everyone.

Well it's been quite a session in the garage tonight. About two weeks ago I noticed that the Dip/Main Beam switch was actually upside down.
To my eternal shame I've never driven the car at night so have never needed to use this or the headlights.
Anyway I turned the switch round and all seemed to be well. Then suddenly no headlights, sidelights or any other lights-except the internal courtesy light.
I tried the ignition and this was dead as well. After a bit of jiggling the ignition came on and then promptly went off again.
After discussing this with fellow Forumite, Lyons, I began to suspect the ignition switch itself. The only puzzling thing was the
headlights which have a permanently live supply. These also re-appeared briefly along with the ignition controlled circuits. Throughout this the radio, clock and courtesy light continued to function.
The car recently died on me on two separate occasions only to burst into life after pressing the starter button again. This may have been initial symptons of the problem I now have.
I checked and cleaned up the bulkhead earth to no avail.
While I was doing this I noticed brake fluid running down from the reservoit to the servo. Yes you've guessed-the reservoir outlet had cracked again! This was replaced 18 months ago and doesn't have the re-inforcing to counteract this.
At this point I'd had enough for the day and retired to the sofa.
Any thoughts on the electrical gremlins?

Cheers

Alan

[JagWaugh]

Probably something loose/corroded at the fues holder feed, ignition Switch, or light Switches. If your car is early enough to have an ammeter it could be the ammeter itself.

The recent dying and self healing symptoms will hopefully increase in frequency... once the fault becomes permanent, or even easy to Trigger it gets a LOT easier to locate. Carry a fire extinguisher.

The brake fluid issue _probably_ isn't electrical...

:-)

[ALAN COCHRANE]

Top marks JagWaugh.
The ammeter had gone open circuit. Strangely it showed perfect continuity once I'd dismantled it-something that will have to remain unexplained. Fortunately I had a spare available which I duly fitted.
I also straightened the ignition switch while I was at it.
To cap it all SNG have just restocked their brake reservoir bottles complete with the reinforced outlet.
I also now have an opportunity to blast and paint the battery tray since the battery is currently sitting on the garage workbench.
So today has been a good day.
Thanks to David Walker who kindly dropped off some spare ignition barrels, starter switches and a master light switch. If you're reading this I'll give you them back at the Glamis Show.

Cheers

Alan

[JagWaugh]

Usually what happens is that the studs/nuts loosen up where the contact the shunt. IIRC yours should be an external shunt, but either way, it isn't a big deal to disassemble, clean the contact Areas on the shunt, as well as the stud/nuts, and reassemble.

For a roadside repair you just Bridge the two terminals of the Ammeter, but you Need a big wire to handle the current. Soft steel bailing wire will do.