Head and Leg room '64 DHC

Robgarns · Post by **Robgarns** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 11:29 am

At 6'5" I don't really fit!

I understand all the normal ways of improving the situation, lower or fixed seat, smaller steering wheel, later seats that recline a little but I am thinking more radical surgery...

I have access to a very good race and rally car fabricator. Clearly the whole floor could be lowered - not easy but possible and would fix the headroom issue. Next the bulkhead behind the seat could be modified - there is 3-4"'s of space behind the bulkhead before you foul the IRS - much more major...

If that is possible, my question is why hasn't it been done before? Comments? Suggestions?

Rob

Post by **Heuer** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 12:18 pm

You could start by talking to CMC - they have done numerous modifications to E-Type's including increasing the boot size in an OTS which very few people would notice. Speak to Nick Goldthorp.

Robgarns · Post by **Robgarns** » Mon Jul 06, 2015 12:30 pm

Thank you - will do just that!

Rob

MarkE · Post by **MarkE** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:12 am

Rob, I think that the best bet is to find a race / rally SEAT builder, and get them to build you a seat that will bolt into place. I think that you can achieve the same result, and not end up with a modified car that nobody wants when you come to sell it. And it will cost you a few hundred pounds, not a few thousand.

Try taking the seat out and sit on the floor in a driving position. With no seat I fit with ease, and I'm the same height as you. Then it's just a question of a bit of padding and support!

I compromised by fitting an S2 reclining seat with the foam cut down, and whilst I could drive the car comfortably for short journeys, anything more than a couple of hours became uncomfortable. But I do have some issues with my back, and need much more support and wiggle room for longer runs, so my approach didn't really work for how I wanted to use the car.

Mark

Robgarns · Post by **Robgarns** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:50 am

Mark

All food for thought.... Are other things that will help - Smaller steering wheel makes a big difference and you could add electric power steer relatively easily...

Not too worried about resale - reality is that people are getting bigger and there are many classics where that "is a problem" incl the E...Saw a guy try to squeeze into a XK120 at Goodwood the other day and was heartbroken he did not fit!

Thanks

Rob

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 12:46 pm

Rob

I have a similar problem and during our rebuild have endeavoured to improve matters too, as follows;

1. modified the rear floor upstand/angle to allow the seats to go back another 20mm and be reclined more,
2. Improved legroom by fitting the mangoletsi throttle conversion which allows the accelerator pedal to be lower and easily adjusted, it has helped me as it means my right knee is now lower giving a little more space under the 15" wheel I have fitted.
3. Removed the steering column bracket spacer and the height adjustment a little so indicator is tight to dash.
4. I also modified the brake stop plate to lower the pedal starting position and widen it so it also lowers the clutch pedal slightly. Only a small amount but it helps. Just make sure the brakes and clutch still work correctly. There area some good threads on here covering this.
4. I havent tackled the seats yet but will be doing so.
5. I havent fitted the hood either so yet to see what if anything that offers in the way of improvement.

Ian

Robgarns · Post by **Robgarns** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 2:45 pm

Thanks Ian - brilliant! Knew someone would be creative!

Any photos you are happy to share?

Rob

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 3:27 pm

Rob

I modified the rear floor uprights slightly by moving them back about 1/2 inch to increase legroom and allow seats to be reclined a few degrees more to help with headroom when hood is up as I'm 6-2 tall,... as shown below;

You will find that behind the dished panel is a piece of channel that is structural and is welded to the rear IRS frame. This would prevent the dished panel moving back, however I discovered that I could drill out thye spot welds and modify it to make it thinner, also its quite easy to trim back the top which slopes the dished panel back and allows the seats to be reclined by a few degrees more, this actually makes the most difference to headroom and arm room.

I dont have any pictures of the other mods but they are all obvious.

Ian

Alty Ian · Post by **Alty Ian** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 3:35 pm

Rob

See thread below,
viewtopic.php?t=5523&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=180

there is a picture of the brake and clutch pedals BEFORE fitting a wider stop plate and before the mangoletsi conversion was fitted, you will see the clutch pedal is higher than the brake, this is what the stop lowers and it doesnt affect the clutch use as the first few mm of travel doesnt seem to generate much pressure, but you need to be careful and the stop is easily adjustable as its visible from inside the footwell when fitted. I made slots so it could be slid up and down and then the back bolts tightened afterwards when the ideal position was found.

The accelerator pedal is fully adjustable.

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