2-post lift to remove/install engine from below

Technical advice Q&A

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fredmec00@hotmail.com
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#1 2-post lift to remove/install engine from below

Post by fredmec00@hotmail.com » Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:26 am

Hi Gents,

I have been reading a lot on 2 vs 4 post lift for removing the engine from below. Obviously different views on which ways is best.

Getting my hands on a 4-post lift in Brazil wont cost less than ?5000. My plan is to use a 2-post.

I could acquire a ramp for 2-post, but removing the cross-member plate with the weight on front suspension will likely damage the threads from bolts holding the torsion bar setting plate.

The lifting approach described on the thread below seems straight forward. However, I am not this set up can be used to remove the engine without supporting the IRS.

viewtopic.php?p=20438

Has anyone made an bridge for the IRS to lift it using the post arms. I feel using a transmission cradle on the IRS would make things unpractical to lower/raise the car on the posts while compensating on the cradle.

I removed e-type engines at a friend's garage a few times using stands, not fun, seriously dangerous. Hence the reason to invest on a 2 post lift.

Sharing your thought will be appreciated!
Thanks
Fred

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mgcjag
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#2

Post by mgcjag » Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:05 am

Hi Frad.....there are adapters that can be fitted or made for a 2 post lift to allow you to lift by the wheel...brackets fit ti the lift arms and then under the tyres, google search for2 post lift wheel adapters http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/consumer/ ... -adaptors/ hope this may help..Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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christopher storey
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#3

Post by christopher storey » Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:09 am

Fredmc : to remove the engine from below the easiest way is to use an engine crane to lower the engine onto a trolley, and then lift the front of the car (using the picture frame, preferably with brackets on the frame bolts ) with the engine crane sufficiently to enable you to wheel the trolley forwards and clear of the car. The front of car without bonnet and engine is quite light. To give sufficient andgular clearance at the rear when lifting it may be necessary to put the rear tyres on blocks perhaps 100mm deep

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Alty Ian
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#4

Post by Alty Ian » Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:01 am

Fred

This is what we did,

viewtopic.php?t=5523

All you need is an engine crane and a jack for the gearbox mounting to lift the engine up while you remove the mountings then lower it onto a low trolley.

Then use the crane to lift the car up off the engine, you will be surprised just how easy it is, without the engine the body is quite light.

Ian
64 S1 4.2 OTS 1E10012 73 S3 2+2 manual 2013 V6 F type OTS

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fredmec00@hotmail.com
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#5

Post by fredmec00@hotmail.com » Sat Jul 25, 2015 2:31 am

Steve, interesting those wheel adapters! I have been checking around and showing picture you sent but no-one has seen them before. I can't source them locally, I could try to make them though. I guess I will have to go for the backup plan, 4-post lift/ramp... see details below.

Ian/Christopher, I agree very little is needed to remove the engine/gearbox from below. While living in Norway I assisted a friend of mine 3 or 4 times in removing/placing the engine in another S1 e-type. We used engine crane, stands, jacks and a pallet trolley

Now I am back in Brazil and I wondered if a 2 or 4-post lift would make things easier, particularly now that I am on my own.

I was planing to remove the engine keeping the bonnet in place. It may sound odd but it can be done. Handling the bonnet by myself is not practical.

I found a 4-post/ramp lift from gslift.com, see link below. Plenty of self-explaining pictures. They have a local supplier and decent price.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas ... -Pro-8-000

THE PLAN:
- Drive the car onto the ramp and do the preparations (remove manifolds, auxiliary equipment, exhaust, prop-shaft and other misc stuff mentioned in Haynes chapter 13)
- Place a bridge between ramp gap (this accessory comes with the gslift kit)
- With a bottle jack on top of the ramp bridge, lift the car under the picture frame until wheels on the air. This will to relief the tension in the torsion bar and make it easier to back-off the bolts holding the cross member.
- Remove the cross member plate, keeping one bolts in the torsion adjusting mechanism.
- Land the wheels back on the ramp, remove jack/bridge.
- Place a trolley under the engine and lower the lift/ramp
- Once the engine touches the trolley, slack the engine mountings.
- Jack the gearbox and undo the bolts holding the gearbox bracket
- Lower the ramp until engine is fully supported by the trolley
- Remove the engine mountings.
- Raise the ramp until car clears the engine.
- Slide the engine/gearbox out of the way.

Anything I am missing?
COMMENTS AND POSITIVE CRITICISM IS WELCOME :)
E-Type 1963, 880190, LHD

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christopher storey
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#6

Post by christopher storey » Sat Jul 25, 2015 7:33 am

The bonnet has to be removed unless you are a real masochist. It can be done single handedly by raising it to the vertical position by releasing the struts, tying it to a beam, releasing the bolts and top hat bushes on which it swivels, and then rolling the car backwards away from it

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mgcjag
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#7

Post by mgcjag » Sat Jul 25, 2015 7:58 am

Hi Fred...have a look at this post and the link for easy bonnet removal viewtopic.php?t=6058&highlight=bonnet+remove

depending on your roof height you could, with bonnet closed raise car high on lift...tie the bonnet to the roof supports....undo the two front bonnet bolts and lower car....bonnet stays up.....needs care and thinking about......but can be done.....others here have supported the bonnet from the rafters....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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Topic author
fredmec00@hotmail.com
Posts: 39
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#8

Post by fredmec00@hotmail.com » Sat Jul 25, 2015 7:51 pm

I guess removing the bonnet by my self is not such of a problem... putting it back in alone will be a bit more of a challenge.

Any comments regarding the rest of plan?

Cheers,
Fred
E-Type 1963, 880190, LHD

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#9

Post by mgcjag » Sat Jul 25, 2015 8:05 pm

Hi Fred......possibly removing all tension from torsion bars....just need to break the trackrod and upper wishbone ball joints, and release damper......makes removing tne reaction plate easier
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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