Rear Hub removal using the spinner

[RogerM]

Is it possible / anyone tried removing the rear hub from the splined half shaft using the wire wheel spinner and a suitable spacer block? Is the centre of the spinner strong enough?
It seems to me that it would do the same job as the Churchill special tool shown in the manual.
I'm about to change the rear wheel bearings and looking to minimise the problems!
Roger

[mgcjag]

Hi Roger.....took mine the CMC for them to remove, they had the correct tool....it still took a lot of effort with everv bit of the spline having to be forced out, they said that it was very common for them to be very tight.....another option would be to use a press, have seen on this forum recently someone usung a puller if i can find it will post here,...cant see the spinner getting anywhere neer it unless tney are loose.....Steve

[Gfhug]

I'll second what Steve says, mine hadn't been removed in a long time and had to give them to a local Jag workshop who needed all the correct heavy duty equipment to do the job.

Geoff

[mgcjag]

Hi Roger...using a press...any workshop will have one. See this post page 12 viewtopic.php?t=6087&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=110

[abowie]

and a suitable spacer block?
Roger

I reckon the idea has merit. Give it a go. Take photos and report back.

[Moeregaard]

I took the rear hub assemblies from my '65 to a local shop with a hydraulic press and they were still a bugger to get apart. As they say, "Don't try this at home."

[RogerM]

Didn't need to try my idea as the hub fell off the half shaft BUT
whoever put the split pin in the castellated nut didn't want to get it out again, took me an hour moving it about 1mm at a time using some garden wire through the hub hole to maintain tension on the pin and long nose pliers. Then to undo the nut, in the end used a 4ft length of 1inch square steel tube I had lying around and it bent that slightly before the "crack" and freedom.
Only got to push the hub off the carrier now; bearings are totally shot!
Roger

[David Oslo]

I have previously struggled on old cars & nuts with extensions bars and long tubes, until I bought a impact wrench. Have used them for years at work but never made the 'connection' to invest at home. Now even the most resilient "4 foot extension" nut cracks off in a few seconds. Just make sure to use the proper black impact sockets.

[abowie]

Didn't need to try my idea as the hub fell off the half shaft Roger

Excellent; that's how it should be. When you reassemble them use plenty of "Never Seize" on the splines. If the rust or some genius has Locktited them in place they can be a proper bastard to get out, even with a big press and oxy.

[JagWaugh]

Yep, second that on the nevr sieze/coppaslip. I think the idea of the loctite was to eliminate microfretting, it certainly wasn't to hold things together during Operation, otherwise there wouldn't be a whacking great nut torqued to such a hich value on the end of the yoke.

It is quite easy to tell if yours are loctited together... they will only come apart with the correct puller or a press. If you try the knockoff method start with just one. If you break the knockoff it is NOT a sign that the knockoff had a flaw, it is a sign that yours are loctited: you need a puller or a press.

[Quattrofrank]

Mine was locktited together and even with the hub puller tool I was struggling. Ended up bending the press screw on the hub puller tool.
I never seen locktite be used like this before and didnt used it when reassembling. With splines and a nut torqued to 193nm it shouldnt be a problem.

[dal2.0litrefrogeye]

Hi I would be very supprised , and you would be one lucky guy to knock them apart , when I took mine apart with our new 30 ton press at work , the press didn't struggle , but the interference fit was there all the way to the last mm of spline , all so the thought of wealding a hammer in the close proximity of wheel arch , splines on hub , or worse your jaw / nose / teeth , or all of the above , and getting your swing a "little" wrong !!! Sure makes the extra hassle of stripping hub and drive shafts off car worth while

[mikey1]

It can be done but I only mention it in case someone has no access to a press. many years ago, when I was young, impecunious and, perhaps foolish, I did succeed using this method. It took me two days and the splines clung on to the last quarter of an inch. Definitely not to be recommended.

Mike Williamson.

[PeterCrespin]

when I was young, impecunious and, perhaps foolish, I did succeed using this method.

I tried being impecunious but ran out of money.

[trondvo]

I used the "shop press" method when taking apart the rear hubs.

http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=383.0

The 20T shop press was really put to test, dont think they would have come off by hand tools alone.

[David Oslo]

many years ago, when I was young, impecunious and, perhaps foolish, I did succeed using this method.
Mike Williamson.

Now that's an oxymoron if I ever saw one .... a young, impecunious E-type owner

Unless of course the E was the root cause, that would explain it!

[mikey1]

Correct - I wasn't impecunious before I bought the E-type, ?2400 in 1977. I didn't know what I was doing and the car was a disaster. Still got it , though.

Mike Williamson.