Wheel: what Tightening torque

[paydase]

Back to the need of the wheels to be off the ground while knocking the spinners, I am wondering how more easily that would allow the wheel to seat, taking account of the millimetric (at most) lateral displacement of the wheel inside the well when knocking and the available flexibility of the tire to accomodate it.
Or do I miss something?

[JerryL770]

My friend David, a long time VCC member and racer warned me of the danger to my car he had seen on many an occasion when someone was removing or fitting a wheel with these spinners, whereby the swung mallet clouts the wing of the car instead of the ear!!

Mindful of this and finding on here the Lionel Knock-off Spinner Removal tool - I bought one - before I had read through this thread

What a trusting fellow "I'll send the tool, just put the £50 in an envelope and send it back to me 2nd class in the envelope I enclose". Yes, it cost me only 50, but I paid him by PayPal - to be sure he got it. Tool arrived yesterday

Also, I think he does not make them. There's a manufacturers sticker inside the tool.

I need to look at my spinner fit as I measured them and they are 105/106mm diameter.

[tim wood]

A set of claimed originals on eBay just now !

[JerryL770]

A set of claimed originals on eBay just now !

Thanks. They do not look to be genuine judging by David's descriptions, principally by the inside markings. The JAGUAR on the outside looks OK though.

[Heuer]

Most of the "pre-owned" spinners on eBay are genuine. Most important is to check the 'Jaguar' logo is as per the original. Remove the oil filler cap from your car and have it next to you as you search eBay to cross reference the design of the logo and font.

[Robbiee]

Hi
Sorry to drag up this old thread
I need advice on spinners for my ‘62 OTS
I have a collection of original spinners which I plan to sort through and have the knocks taken out and rechromed
I am a little unsure as the profiles do vary
They are all 1466/7 AB but some are more “defined” in the profile of the spinner ears and sharper angled where the ears connect to the body

Which is correct?

It would seem that the sharper, better defined ears would be earlier (maybe whilst the moulds were newer)

Any views
See attached photos

Robbie

[Heuer]

The spinner dies wore out over time so expect some variation over the many years of production. Choose a matching set and if you are still concerned measure the weight of each. The specification are:
Height - 38mm (1.5")
Diameter - 101.6mm (4")
Outer wall thickness - 6.5mm (1/4")
Inner wall thickness - 5.4mm (7/32")
Depth from top of wall to bottom of casting - 31.6mm (1 1/4")
Weight - 885gms (31oz)

More info here: viewtopic.php?p=36206#p36206

[Robbiee]

Thanks David
I think I’m sorted
Bit of “dressing” and good chrominance next methinks
Robbie

[Robbiee]

*chroming...predictive texting doesn’t seem to like that word?

[Magical]

Followed on from another thread……. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=14292&start=20

And yet David, I can confirm that after “tightening” the spinners, both with the wheels in the air initially, followed by further taps with the wheels on the ground, the action of driving did indeed tighten them further.

It was reading your’s and other’s posts that got me decided on trying out for myself once I’d got all new components on the car. Being absolutely clear though, I at no point ran my car with any clearance between the inner and outer cones and neither was the initial torque applied “negligible” as I gave some “medium” taps. The clamping force would have been pretty substantial between the cones. (Again, subjective language, but being retired I no longer have access to strain gauge labs, FE analysts and stress engineers to calculate the exact pre load).

Rather than the hula hoop theory, I would rather describe it as a “Mexican Wave” of tension in the wheel centre hub, (as opposed to the wheel mounting hub where the bearings are), generated from the wheel’s forward rotation, which acts on the outer cone and the spinner interface leading to a further tightening of the spinner to the rear of the car. The final pre-load achieved in the joint ultimately is enough to overcome the spinner’s ability to tighten any more, i.e. friction forces become greater than the force that makes the spinner rotate. It could be argued that the only sure fire way of obtaining the correct pre-load, as after all it is this and not spinner torque that is most important, is to ensure that they do rotate a small amount after initial tightening, to their “rest” position.

I think in reality, people are either going to believe it happens or they don’t. From my point of view, via experimentation, I was able to prove that the spinners did tighten further and didn’t just lock. (Well on my car on a warm spring evening in the North West Midlands of England.....)

[mgcjag]

From the Jaguar service manual.....how to fit a wheel....no mention of self tightening or locking....page A15....Steve

[Magical]

As I said Steve, there will those who believe it and those who don’t. But it also does not state how many joules of energy are required to “tighten” the spinner….just some vague description….”tighten the hub fully”, whatever that means without some unit of measure. But as I’ve stated previously…..my bits are MWS and their literature states otherwise. Oh, and the fact that I proved it via experimentation.

I did apologise when I re started the post as I knew it would be controversial

[mgcjag]

It would be good if you introduced yourself in the welcom section...whats your name?...plase try to put it and your car model in the signature area....makes discussions and answering questions much easier...Steve

[Magical]

Ok Steve, will do.

[angelw]

Steve Wrote:

From the Jaguar service manual.....how to fit a wheel....no mention of self tightening or locking....page A15....Steve

Hello Steve,
There are a myriad of errors and or, omissions in the service manuals. Just one example is if you were to follow the S3 service manual instructions to the letter, regarding setting the Pre-load of the Pinion Bearings, you would end up with circa 0.5mm (0.020") end float. Then there is there is the shim adjustment of the Output Shaft Bearing retaining plate for compression of the seal. That just leads to the outer race of the bearing spinning in its bore.

Regards,

Bill

[paydase]

One question wrt greasing the hubs after a wheel replacement and refitting, as per the Dunlop instructions provided by David in the other thread:


The grease advised is "grease mixed with some graphite".
Does it mean that graphited grease is preferred and does it also mean that there would be substantial heat in the area produced by riding the car to justify it?
Why not alternatively simple grease or, better,lithium grease that would have some beneficial anti-corrosion effect in that area?

[bitsobrits]

I just run a small amount of anti seize on the hub spines, nothing on the threads or hub taper. Has worked for three E types over 40 years. YMMV