Steering wheel and gear stick restoration

[Simone]

Hello everyone, I've got a few questions if anyone has the time to respond.

What's the best technique for restoring the steering wheel?
In particular, the wooden part? Ours has become a very dark colour, partly because it has been varnished very badly to match an aftermarket Momo gear stick & knob (sacrilege, I know). Is it a case of sanding down to bare wood and then clear varnishing or is there the right way?

I have the correct replacement gear stick, rubber gaiter and knob and will doing that work shortly. From the image below, do you think the Momo stick looks like it's a sleeve over the original stick? I appreciate it's hard to tell, but wonder if anyone might know?

Also attached are some more progress images of the paintwork.

Thanks in advance and if anyone has any questions, please get in touch.

Si

[Tom W]

I wouldn’t sand the wheel, you’ll risk removing material and changing the shape. I stripped mine with nitromors. I used Araldite to re-fix the wood to the steel inner as it was loose, and to repair where the wood had started to lift and splinter.

For the finish, I used teak oil. I didn’t want an overly shiny wheel, as the rest of my car isn’t pristine. It gives the wood a nice satin appearance, and the finish seems hard wearing. If it gets too grubby, it can be cleaned up again, and re-oiled. It’s not quite as hard as a gloss varnished wheel though.

Edit: it was Danish oil, not Teak oil that I used.

[Gfhug]

Remember to look at the similar topics listed below, they give several links to similar questions and answers

Geoff

[Simone]

Thanks Tom, great tips.

[Simone]

Remember to look at the similar topics listed below, they give several links to similar questions and answers

Geoff

Thanks Geoff, will make sure I consult the topics list before asking q's

[Tom W]

Just looked on my garage shelf. It was actually Danish oil, not teak oil, that I used. I’ve also heard you can use Tung oil for a similar effect, which I believe is what is used on rifle butts by the military, as it doesn’t go sticky.

[Simone]

Just looked on my garage shelf. It was actually Danish oil, not teak oil, that I used. I’ve also heard you can use Tung oil for a similar effect, which I believe is what is used on rifle butts by the military, as it doesn’t go sticky.

Thanks Tom! Just in time, on Amazon ordering some Nitromors, will add the Tung oil as well. Thank you so much.

[Tom W]

There’s some good info on Tung oil on Wikipedia. I’m happy with the Danish oil I used on mine.

One word of warning with any of these oils. When you’re done with the rags used to apply then, open them out to dry. The drying oil gets hot, and if left scrunched up in the bin, they can reach critical mass and spontaneously combust!

[Tom W]

Here’s a couple of photos of the Danish Oil finish.

[Simone]

These look great!

[Kember17]

Make sure it is pure Tung oil. A lot that is sold is a mixture and not half as pleasant underhand.

I used Tung oil on my Momo wheel on my Alfa Spider. It is a nice wheel to use now.

Peter