Waxoyl - Where , how often and any good

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Tony
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#1 Waxoyl - Where , how often and any good

Post by Tony » Thu Oct 14, 2010 7:40 pm

I am about to go on a clear Waxoyl mission around the car. I have the oil, compressor, spray gun, extension wand and a mask.

Wheel arches.
Mine are painted body colour, Will the oil discolour them.?

Sills.
How do you get in to access them.

Doors.
Do I have to take the panel off? If so how?

Bulkhead,
How do you get in there?

Door post
How do you get access?

Underbody
Again painted and will the oil discolour it.

Where not to do and where to avoid.
I suspect the disc brakes would not be a very good idea

Where else would you recommend and how do i access them

Or am I wasting my time and Waxoyl clear is no good?
Tony (E typed)

1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)

Tony

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christopher storey
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#2

Post by christopher storey » Fri Oct 15, 2010 10:06 am

Tony : it is easier to show you than to describe. If you pop in over the weekend I will take you through it

I should add, waxoyl clear ( it's actually a yellowish colour) is perfectly good, but best to keep it off friction surfaces

Some people prefer Dinitrol, but it tends to be black and very,very messy looking

Chris

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Heuer
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#3

Post by Heuer » Fri Oct 15, 2010 10:26 am

And be careful where you park the car afterwards as it tends to drip for days! You will not be popular with the wife if you leave it on the drive.:roll: Actually it is best to do it on a hot sunny day as it allows the Waxoyl to flow more freely and reach into the hard to get at bits. It is going to be cold for the next week so wait until you see the weather getting warmer.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX

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christopher storey
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#4

Post by christopher storey » Fri Oct 15, 2010 4:51 pm

Yes , I put my tin in near boiling water for a few minutes before attempting to spray

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ChrisC
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#5

Post by ChrisC » Mon Oct 18, 2010 11:08 am

Boiling water is my tip too....

Inside the doors - I have also brushed a little waxoil into the lowest part of the door where the skin meets the door panel. The bottom of the door is designed to have water pour over it and out of the 2 vents.

So make sure the bottom of the door (inside) is well coated.... or dont drive your car in the rain :o)
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk

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pcwesthead
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#6 waxoyl access

Post by pcwesthead » Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:33 pm

Could I have directions to the Cheshire member to show me acces points for waxing please?
Regards

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on2wheels
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#7

Post by on2wheels » Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:03 pm

Looks like you need to set up a seminar Chris!

:D :D Nick

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Tony
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#8

Post by Tony » Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:10 pm

If you are setting up a demo, you can do it on my car.I have a compressor, spray gun. waxoyl and an E type. I have bought all the right kit but did not get round to doing it
Tony (E typed)

1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)

Tony

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christopher storey
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#9

Post by christopher storey » Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:18 pm

I am very happy to give a seminar!! What good it will do you is another matter . Seriously, though, it is better now to wait for warmer weather, perhaps in March , as although you can brush on waxoyl in the current near freezing temperatures, spraying it is rather more difficult, although not impossible. Tony and I are both on the Wirral so if you are within striking distance , we could all meet

Chris

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chuffer
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#10

Post by chuffer » Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:48 am

Chris,
If you're serious and throwing the invitation open to all, could I please be included?

I've already Waxoyled mine but happy to learn how I could improve it. I'm happy to fit in with the others' timescales.

cheers
Ray
S1 FHC 3.8, XK Convertible

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Dave K
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#11

Post by Dave K » Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:21 am

christopher storey wrote:Yes , I put my tin in near boiling water for a few minutes before attempting to spray
A good tip for making sure Dinitrol or Waxoyl is thin enough to spray is mix in white spirit and keep everything warm. The white spirit will evaporate afterwards.
I used Dinitrol in my car mainly because it was used extensively at a car factory where I used to work. There they used to apply it to Aston Martins and other cars and trucks they made. It was supplied in 205 litre drums that had a gravity fed positive displacement pump sat on top and was wrapped in a thick heated blanket which made its consistency seem more like water.
Wish I could have brought the shell in there rather than creating the almighty mess when I did it.
I used a Schutz gun with a can attached and a 1,5 mtr length of 6mm nylon tube on the end.
All through the first summer after getting my car back on the road there used to be piles of thick Dinitrol under the car where ever I stopped.

If everything is out of the car there are plenty of places you can get access to the sills, the bulkhead and other cavities. I drilled 7mm holes inside the car to get access to the IRS support box sections and fitted plugs afterwards. I never drilled holes anywhere else as all other important areas can be accessed easily.
I wouldn't recommend applying it while you have any trim in the car!

Dave

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