Slave cylinder

[StuBYD]

Have Series 1 EType late 1965. Does anyone know what part number is stamped on the slave cylinder. Mine appears to be 323264(?)8C - having difficulty reading it upside down. Unit was recently fitted, but adjustment rod does not allow me to reduce free play to desired setting, i.e. 1/16".

[Heuer]

There are two types of clutch slave cylinder, one of which (hydrostatic) is self adjusting and either can be installed on your car. The short 80mm adjustable one is C12470 and the longer 95mm hydrostatic one is C24145 which was fitted from car 7E4607 and all 2+2's.

This could be yours with that number, so the short adjustable one:


You may have the wrong operating rod? Should be C9798.

[StuBYD]

Dave, It looks like you are spot on again!
Confident that that unit I have is the one shown. Is there any way I can tell whether the operating rod fitted is the correct one?
Regards,
Stewart

[Heuer]

Only by the fact you should be able to adjust it if it is the correct one. The hydrostatic one is slightly longer because of the revised slave cylinder. If you try to adjust it you will find the thread end fouls the assembly (24) by bottoming out. You can cut down the threaded end by about 1/4" to allow adjustment if this is your problem. I notice on the diagram there is no locknut on the operating rod but it is in the parts list so don't forget it!

[StuBYD]

Thanks for the response David. My car No is 7E7097 and is fitted with the adjustable slave cylinder. The operating rod has been extended to it's maximum length by turning it anti clockwise, but I still have approx 1/4" free play. Looks like I will just have to leave it. Had new thrust bearing and clutch plate fitted quite recently so don't think this has effected the adjustment.
Regards

[mgcjag]

Hi Stewart.......Have a very similar problem with my S2 2+2....could not adjust out the free play as the push rod ran out of thread (to short) to get the 1/16 gap.......for the time being i made up a longer rod with some threaded stud which i have heard that others have done...the problem came to light by having to streach out to fully depress the clutch pedal.....next step is to check out the master cylinder to see if the pushrod has full travel, thus alowing full travel on the slave.(once i get the front suspension back on).....Steve

[StuBYD]

Steve,
Many thanks for your input. I take it you replaced the operating rod with the threaded stud?

Stewart

[mgcjag]

Hi Stewart......Yes replaced the pushrod..Steve

[caddsource]

Just rebuilt and reinstalled my slave cylinder.

1. After bleeding the system the plunger does not seem to stay depressed.
2. There seems to be no leak in the system.
3. New hydraulic fluid replaced.
4. Original lock-nut location on push rod maintained.

Problem(s)
1. I have a lot of play in the push rod.
2. It seems that the internal plunger is not being forced forward by the spring. Can the internal sping go bad?
3. My clutch now engages inched from the floor board.

Any solutions would be great appreciated as replacing the unit would be my only other alternative even though after inspection the unit looks great.

[1954Etype]

How much play do you have in the push rod?

[pcattera]

Hi there. I am now confused. I have a series 2 (USA version) and I recently had the clutch slave cylinder replaced. The one taken off has part number 3232 648C and it is 95 mm end to end but I have read on this post that this number pertains to the smaller 80 mm adjustable one. I specifically ordered the S2 slave measuring 95 mm and had it fitted. The same original push rod has been used. I did not actually measure the new one before it was fitted, a bit stupid really. I now have the same problem as many others appear to be having. Too much freeplay and I have to stretch to fully disengage clutch. My engine number is 7R8695-9. Maybe I have inadvertantly received and fitted the shorter 80 mm one. I will hoist up the beast tomorrow and check the size. Peter

[kingzetts]

It may be worth a brief explanation of how the slave (the non-hydrostatic version) needs to be adjusted.

There are two springs - one is internal to the slave cylinder and pushes the piston towards the "pedal fully depressed" position. The other is external and pulls against the operating fork and hence via the pushrod pulls the slave piston back up the cylinder bore, working against the tension in the internal spring.

To set the pushrod length and free play correctly, start by making the pushrod so long that the slave piston is pressed right back up its bore against the tension of the internal spring, and the clutch operating fork is pushed fully towards the "clutch disengaged" position. Once the whole assembly is locked solid, back off the pushrod adjustment until the 1/16" play is achieved. In this setup the external spring (which is stronger than the internal one) delivers free play but with the maximum piston stroke available.

But beware of a simple pitfall. If the external spring is missing, or weak, or simply removed during the adjustment process, the internal spring will push the piston out, apparently using up the free play. If you try to get apparent "free play" with the external return spring removed, you end up shortening the pushrod until the internal spring stops pushing the piston out, by which time you have already used up most of the piston travel and so either the clutch then fails to disengage or disengagtes so close to the floor as to be awkward.

I made this mistake myself, that's how I know of the pitfall!!!