E type full build S1 4.2 Coupe

[paulsco]

Hi Bryan,

You should have a header tank but no overflow/expansion tank.



You shell looks like a 3.8 to me. The early cars had a hole in the bulkhead on each side for the 3.8 servo.

Mine is a November 1965 and doesn’t have these holes. The pedal hole for the brake and the clutch was smaller on earlier cars, but bigger from around November as it was on mine and subsequent cars, so your is not a later car.





Paul

[Turnip]

If you haven't done so already, get hold of a copy of the parts catalogue. That describes everything you need for each sub-assembly, right down to the washers. And don't just rely on the pictures. Sometimes you will find parts listed in the text that aren't shown on the diagrams.
For example, have you got the packing pieces between the side frames and the bottom of the picture frame?

Simon

[phoenix]

Thanks for all the help guys this is probably going to take me 6 months . Got a big job done yesterday . We got the rear transmission in what a B+++er that was . Another question looking forward I will need to fit all the under bonnet (hood) parts. I was thinking of flipping it over and laying on a couple of old mattresses . Any thoughts . It is a brand new item so no fittings at all .

[christopher storey]

Flipping what over ? The whole shell ? Please please don't do that with a newly painted shell,( or indeed a bonnet ) because whatever you put it on, you are liable to get "print-through" of the material texture . I recommend that you make up a reasonably high trestle and rest the front frames on that, which will give you ample clearance to work to install the suspension parts etc

[phoenix]

No sorry I just meant the bonnet (hood) . Would it be best to stand it up or wait till its on the car . This is just to fit mudguards and wiring etc .

[christopher storey]

I think it would be safest to wait until you have the bonnet attached . If you want to work on it in a near vertical position, then with the front of the car raised on e.g. ramps it is not too difficult to make a longer bar instead of the spring device ( or hydraulic damper if that is what you have ) to retain it in a wider open position . Working on it standing on its rear edge is a bit dicey because it has a tendency to rock slightly and you might chip the rear edge paint . The centre of gravity is also surprisingly far forward and thus rather far above ground level with it stood up.

This is just my opinion : others may have a different view . The wiring, of course, is all at the front and thus it is rather easier to work on it in a near closed position, ditto the sugar scoops etc

[phoenix]

Thanks yes I will wait till the bonnet is fitted .

[politeperson]

Phoenix,

I assembled and fitted a bonnet last week. I have done a few.

I started with a new center section. The rest of the parts were second hand.

As you suggest, it is easiest to assemble up side down.

Assemble the front clam and wings first, using the headlight rim and front of the wheel arch as your first datum.

Use clamps to force the center section around to match the curve of the lower (now on top) lower valance. Also clamp the wings on too, ensuring they align where the wing beading will go. They take force to clamp together.

Then mark your flange holes, disassemble, drill your holes and reassemble with the correct spacer washers and fasteners. I use old ones if I am painting, then replace them.

The wing to center section bolts point inwards, the indicator flange bolts point downwards.

Fitting, clamping and aligning the first 4 main sections, bolting them together takes a few hours.

I like to paint these sections after drilling with a satin version of the final color before bolting together.

Dont worry about the differing lengths of the wings and center section yet.

Now attach and clamp the main bonnet spar. This is the bit that is under the bonnet section in front of the windscreen from one side of the bonnet to the other. It is attached ether side by the two butterfly brackets. Blot it with 4x 3/16 screws either side. Then you bond it along its entire length and tack it into place when clamped down the the main bonnet center section. After this bit is in, I like to paint it.

Now you have to think about bonding in the air ducts and diaphragms.

I like to loosely assemble the whole inner structure prior to bonding. This includes the flanges that will join all of this gubbins to the underside of the bonnet.

Only by assembling all these parts together, even only loosely, can you be sure you will glue the flanges in the correct place on the bonnet center.

You may notice that the diaphragm that joins the air intake duct to the outer wing bolts through a specific hole in the wing/center panel flange.

Loosely bolt it all into place using old screws, as this will be temporary, you will be painting over then, then replacing them with new one by one.

Now get the sealer out. Any automotive quality sealer will do. you will need 2 tubes @£5 a go and a corking gun.

I string a good bead in between the flanges and the bonnet, only removing various diaphragm panels as i need to, then re screwing them together as I need to to ensure alignment whilst the sealer is still tacky. Make sure it squishes out good and even. Remove the excess with a scraper/cloth and bin it.

Make sure all your empty bolt/ screw holes are still aligned and screw everything tight. You will have about 35 minutes to get in all that sealer before it goes off, there so dont mess around.

Make sure everything is pushed down and ensure the two air ducts are far enough apart to allow the radiator grill to drop in between them (they may need a push sideways).

You need to leave it for at least 24 hours.

At this point I like to finish stone chipping and painting, then I replace all the fasteners with those from a Hudsons kit.

You are now ready to drop the bonnet on and start adjusting it to the car.

Dont forget that the bolts connecting the diagrams to the wings should be loose. Removing the 2 butterfly brackets will allow the wings to flap out over the bulkhead to allow the bonnet to close whilst you measure for final cuts.

Having fitted the bonnet, it is essential you mark the center of the bonnet, the bulkhead scuttle and the picture frame (from underneath). This is your datum. You must keep the center section of the bonnet running true to the direction of the car and central.

The first thing to align with the bonnet shims, is the wheel arch to sill. Once this is aligned and the bonnet is central your options become limited movement wise.

When undoing the 4 bolts on the bonnet hinges, bear in mind which plane you are trying to move the bonnet. Backwards/forwards or up and down. If you unscrew two bolts too much, the heads will interfere with each other, so think about it.

The rest of the subject of bonnet fitting is covered in the technical section. No two bonnets are the same.

Basically, you cant squeeze the wings in until you have cut the bonnet the first time. A lorry strap can help here pull the wings in whilst you tighten the diaphragm/butterfly bolts. Keep you bonnet centralised.

If the center section/scuttle is too high on one side when closing, raise the other side with shims at the hinge.

Once you have squeezed the wings in and set them with the diaphragm and butterfly bolts, you need to think about the lower wing sill gap. It needs to match your lower door gap.

Finally you will cut the bonnet edge all the way around with a 1mm cutting disc exactly parallel to the scuttle edge. Not that easy, I use tape.

Dont worry, it will all be fine!

[Nick]

Hi Bryan,
If you confirm that you have a 3.8 bodyshell you may find you have some extra work to do to adapt it to the later 4.2 fittings. I see from your photos that your shell has the access holes for the rear inboard brakes. These holes aren't on my March 1956 car, but if anything it's an advantage for you to have them. However, you probably won't have a mounting bracket for the 4.2 fuel pump since the 3.8 used a submerged pump in the tank. And I can't see any mounting holes on the passenger side of the bulkhead for the 4.2 brake servo or reservoir.

Possibly not much help at this stage, but part 31 is the radio console, 33 is a bulkhead blanking plate, & 34 and 35 are the sprung ventilation flaps that go under the dashboard.

The SC Parts catalogue is possibly that best for diagrams to help with identification of mystery parts.

Keep at it !

Nick

[phoenix]

I have just obtained a radiator cowl and I was surprised how crude it was for a Jaguar part. I would have thought they would have used a pressed steel item .The question is what colour should I paint it .

[phoenix]

Now got rear wheels on car first time for many years . Strange thing the wheel drops down swinging on the bottom hub attachment .I have not got the wheel spinners yet so it is just on the spines so will it change then.

[mgcjag]

Not sure i understand whats happening but......Have you got the drive shafts fitted....without these the aluminium hub carrier will swing down on its fulcrum shaft...Steve.......a photo would help us see what you problem is

[bitsobrits]

I have just obtained a radiator cowl and I was surprised how crude it was for a Jaguar part. I would have thought they would have used a pressed steel item .The question is what colour should I paint it .

Interesting that you find it crude. It should be a high quality fiberglass part made in a two part mold, so smooth both sides, made with colored resin that resembles silver hammerite.

[phoenix]

Just sorting through all the bits and I cannot find the rev counter generator . Looked at the cost of one with all the bits about £200 with vat and delivery . Shame I could not convert it to pulse off a plug lead .Talking of plug leads did the S1 4.2 s have champion plug caps .Its a slow job this I only do a few hours about 3 or 4 days a week . Just putting the brake and fuel lines underneath. Should there be 2 heat shields to go underneath and what are they made of. The reason I am asking is that I am building this about 20 feet up on a mezzanine level and the car when finished (minus exhaust) is going to be craned down probably with a frame or strops on the wheels.

[Sven]

If you are thinking about electronic tacho running from the ignition, this company seem to make a nice circuit board that converts the original gauge:

https://www.spiyda.com/tachometer-electronics.html

No connection, but have been pondering this, as I am using a later cylinder head without the tacho drive. Anyone else had experiences with Spiyda?

Richard

[phoenix]

Very interesting I will give them a call tomorrow to see which unit would be the best. Thanks .
I have just got one of my cars a 1972 Fiat 500 out because they say we should not have much rain for a week .
when polishing it seems I have a little remedial work to do .Even when properly protected you almost cannot stop deterioration in paint and chrome .

[phoenix]

Now I am fitting brake lines etc . I have downloaded some great pics of the brake line routing but are there any photos of the vacuum tank location . All this is a hard job when you did not take it apart yourself .

[mgcjag]

Quite a few on google search of e type vac tank..

[phoenix]

Thanks for that. I am not sure if i am bothering with logo the owner said above all he just wants a good useable
classic . Hence I am where possible using stainless nuts and bolts etch priming and three coats of paint and using high temp wax on bare aluminium . It all takes time but worth it , I do not know how many hours it takes to build one of these from scratch (including taking of when put on in wrong order) but I hope to finish January. Just looking at some of the unused re plated bits years ago and they need doing again . More cost.

[christopher storey]

I hope you are not using Stainless on load bearing fastenings. They are too brittle and not up to the job