more questions! steering wheel and gearbox

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 8:29 pm

ok, so I have looked at the fabulous "knowledge base" but I cannot find details on how to get my steering wheel refurbished , if at all, and, I am looking for the expert in Moss gearboxes. why I hear you ask? well I like the whine from the straight cut first gear ok? I may of course change my mind after a while of trying to change gear. Anyway, if anyone can make any recommendations, please can you pm me if you dont want to mention names on the forum. thx

Post by **Heuer** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 9:31 pm

Seek and ye shall find!

Steering Wheel restoration: Len Chandler; len.chandler@btinternet.com; 01276 856591

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:03 pm

Ah thanks David. I did read your post referring to Len Chandler. Unfortunately he is not taking on work due to ill health which takes us right back to square one. Do Mota Lita do restos does anyone know?

Post by **Heuer** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:15 pm

Unless the wood is cracked I would not touch it especially if you have the early Coventry Timber Bending Company Ltd one. MarkE will probably know who to ask as Lotus steering wheels are his speciality and they are eye wateringly expensive.

As for the Moss box it is great providing you do not have it restored! First gear just to get the car moving and the other three for driving. Don't even think of a later 4 speed or 5 speed as they can be more trouble than you can imagine.

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 12:05 am

There is a guy in Solihull who does E-Type steering wheels, he did my very early one about 10 years ago and it still looks like brand new.
Trouble is I can't remember his name but someone here will know. I should have his invoice in my records somewhere.
I think he charged around ?100 back then.

Dave

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 5:30 am

thanks Dave. If you can let me know, if you dig out his invoice that would be most kind. I will ask around a bit more as well.

other David, interesting comments regarding the Moss and the later gearboxes. Do you are to expand? you have excited my interest!

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:25 am

Forty quid for new rim wood, five quid for smal kit Rustin's two pack plastic coating (thick brushable varnish) and job done Excellent result and very satisfying.

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 8:17 am

aha, so one can buy the kits and do the job ones self? where do the kits come from, the usual suspects ?

Post by **1954Etype** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 9:08 am

andrewh wrote:aha, so one can buy the kits and do the job ones self? where do the kits come from, the usual suspects ?

I've seen them on eBay for quite some time

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 9:37 am

not there now , but will keep a look out thanks a lot

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 10:29 am

The kits are available for the later grooved steering wheels but no one makes them for the early 'round' version as far as I know. Remember the tactile feel of the original wheel is the primary link between you and the car. Fitting a smaller diameter wheel or restoring one with fatter wood rim seem to me to be missing the point. Take some photos of the wheel and post them here and we can offer more advice. You could strip the wheel varnish yourself but remember the spokes are similarly treated so you need to do the whole thing. I know Christopher restored his steering wheel with mixed success - sticky in hot weather I seem to recall. Cracks can be re-glued but you need to be careful with staining as the original wheel was made of beech:

With your car being so original you need to be forensic in the way you approach things. As for the Moss box it would be wise not to have to replace the synchro rings as the modern replacements are not up to the job. I lost 2nd gear synchro on my (later 4.2) box 5,000 miles after 'restoration'.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 10:33 am

David : I restored my wheel in the obvious way, with high gloss polyurethane varnish, and it did become sticky in heat. Then a neighbour of mine who is a cabinet maker showed me how to do it ! We stripped the varnish , and used finishing wax appled in several coats with 000 grade wire wool . This produces a beautiful looking and feeling satin finish which does not alter with heat or damp , and can easily be redone every year or two . It is not absolutely authentic for the purist , but is very practical

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 10:42 am

Once more many thanks for the collective wisdom shared here. Its great. I will photograph the wheel asap and post it shortly. Thx. Andrew

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 10:54 am

The best finish I know of is Tru-Oil because that is what my Boss & Co and Holland & Holland shotguns are done with. So it stands repeated use in all weathers, intensifies the wood grain and is a delight in the hand. It takes time to do though but the result is fantastic:

Also used for guitars, instructions here - http://www.mandolinluthier.com/Hfinish-tru-oil.htm

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 3:22 pm

andrewh wrote:aha, so one can buy the kits and do the job ones self? where do the kits come from, the usual suspects ?

There's usually a guy at Stoneleigh. I think he does round wood ones but possibly mahogany coloured. I'm pretty sure they are all full-section rims until the last scallop cut is taken out to make the thumb groove?

The trick is to use clear epoxy glue and to use lots of clamps - at least a dozen, while it sets. I was in two-minds about doing it myself, mainly because I don't have the patience for gazillions of coats of varnish. But if you use two-pack it's almost like fibreglass resin and goes on thick and gives a deep wet look like dash wood.

More critically, it sets like factory wooden wheel finish with not the faintest hint of varnish tackiness. You wouldn't expect a catalysed plastic to be tacky (unless it's Del Boy's Reliant Regal van I suppose) and this does exactly what it says on the tin. As David implies, it's very satisfying to have a smooth but not artificially glass-like tactile experience with one's own handiwork on every trip. Makes for a very stiff wheel too - even at 16 inches.

No Angus, no jokes about tactile experiences with one's own 16-inch handiwork

Post by **1954Etype** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 4:23 pm

Pete, you beat me to it! Forget the clamps, use cable ties.

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 5:03 pm

Ouch, no thanks. Makes my eyes water just to think of it. Enjoy.

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:05 pm

this is the wheel I have. Is it the early type then? you can see the plits in the veneers hence the need for remedial work.

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:51 pm

Andrew

That is the later 'Moto-Lita' wheel and there are wood kits available or simply hang it on your garage wall and buy a new one from Moto-Lita. http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:54 pm

well thats easy then! my old roadster, chassis 320 had the other type so they must have changed sometime in early 62? what do you reckon? thx David

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